ABS and Traction Control Issues
#11
JK Junkie
Sounds like it. Long sweeping turns is usually a trigger for tire size. Win some, lose some. Good catch.
Last edited by 14Sport; 11-06-2015 at 02:52 PM.
#12
JK Jedi Master
While you're checking out those front wheel sensors also check the unit bearings. I've seen them cause the ABS/ESP lights. Look for contamination inside of the unit bearing (mine was from using in a quicksand-filled river) and for a loose/worn/noisy bearing (which perhaps when turning one direction has a more pronounced problem--just a guess). Bear in mind that the unit bearings are filled with grease. But you don't want water/mud/sand in them.
#13
JK Junkie
Good point, Mark.
And I probably should not assume anything so if you didn't extend your brake and sensor lines enough or at all then I would check that as well.
And I probably should not assume anything so if you didn't extend your brake and sensor lines enough or at all then I would check that as well.
Last edited by 14Sport; 11-07-2015 at 02:40 AM.
#16
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Swapped and cleaned out the rear sensors about 2 weeks ago. It seemed to do the trick for about a day, but then the same problem came back.
Rear sensors were swapped (driver side to pass. side, pass side to driver side), but still getting the issue around right hand turns. From what I can see, the front brake lines and sensors have plenty of reach and aren't being pulled around.
Mark, how do I go about checking the unit bearings? I know how to replace them, but unsure how to determine whether or not they are bad. I do get some occasional clicking from my rear brakes, but this seems to go away when I depress the brake pedal. Could this be a sign that the unit bearings are shot? Definitely going to look into this further.
Rear sensors were swapped (driver side to pass. side, pass side to driver side), but still getting the issue around right hand turns. From what I can see, the front brake lines and sensors have plenty of reach and aren't being pulled around.
Mark, how do I go about checking the unit bearings? I know how to replace them, but unsure how to determine whether or not they are bad. I do get some occasional clicking from my rear brakes, but this seems to go away when I depress the brake pedal. Could this be a sign that the unit bearings are shot? Definitely going to look into this further.
#17
JK Jedi Master
Unit bearings, also called hub bearings, only apply to the front. Rotate each wheel and listen for unusual noise from one (when one of mine failed, the noise was obvious even when driving). With vehicle jacked, grab wheel top and bottom and check for play, then left and right. Play in all directions suggests a bad bearing. Play in only a single direction could indicate other bad parts unrelated to ABS. Pull wheel speed sensor and peer into unit bearing cavity. I find it easiest to loosen the three 13 mm bolts on the back of the unit bearing, slide it out slightly so the dust plate can wiggle, the remove the sensor and feed it through the dust plate hole so it is out of the way. There should be grease, but no other contamination (when another of mine failed it had fine shreds of blackened material in the grease).
Your rear axle has more typical bearings press-fitted on each axle. Instead of axle grease, they are lubed by lube in your differential slopping out to them. Replacement will likely require a machine shop to fit the new ones, as well as the seals. But they are unlikely to cause your ABS lights.
Your rear axle has more typical bearings press-fitted on each axle. Instead of axle grease, they are lubed by lube in your differential slopping out to them. Replacement will likely require a machine shop to fit the new ones, as well as the seals. But they are unlikely to cause your ABS lights.
#18
JK Jedi Master
There is a wire harness that goes to each of your wheels. At the end of each one is a sensor that measures how fast that wheel is rotating. Once you find it, removal procedure is pretty obvious, but see what I wrote just above about the front axle unit bearings. When you remove a front wheel, that assembly that has the studs on it is your unit bearing. It is replaced as an entire assembly, including studs and even the sensor. Some places call it a hub bearing.
#20
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Unit bearings, also called hub bearings, only apply to the front. Rotate each wheel and listen for unusual noise from one (when one of mine failed, the noise was obvious even when driving). With vehicle jacked, grab wheel top and bottom and check for play, then left and right. Play in all directions suggests a bad bearing. Play in only a single direction could indicate other bad parts unrelated to ABS. Pull wheel speed sensor and peer into unit bearing cavity. I find it easiest to loosen the three 13 mm bolts on the back of the unit bearing, slide it out slightly so the dust plate can wiggle, the remove the sensor and feed it through the dust plate hole so it is out of the way. There should be grease, but no other contamination (when another of mine failed it had fine shreds of blackened material in the grease).
Your rear axle has more typical bearings press-fitted on each axle. Instead of axle grease, they are lubed by lube in your differential slopping out to them. Replacement will likely require a machine shop to fit the new ones, as well as the seals. But they are unlikely to cause your ABS lights.
Your rear axle has more typical bearings press-fitted on each axle. Instead of axle grease, they are lubed by lube in your differential slopping out to them. Replacement will likely require a machine shop to fit the new ones, as well as the seals. But they are unlikely to cause your ABS lights.