ABS, ESP BAS, Traction Control, Brake Lights On
#1
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ABS, ESP BAS, Traction Control, Brake Lights On
I've been searching the internet for this, including some threads here. From what I've read, I think I have an idea what's going on but can't find a thread with my exact problem.
Here's the thing. Have an 07 JKU. It has a lot of mods on it, which I were on it when I bought it two years ago. There is quite a bit of wiring to the battery, between a winch and LEDs, etc. It could have probably been wired better. Haven't really had any problems with it in the last two years. My son drives it most of the time.
On Friday night, I went to drive it and the ABS/ESP BAS/Traction Control/Brake lights all came on after I started driving. Asked son and he said it had just started doing that. The next day I checked the brake fluid and it looked a hair low, so I topped of the reservoir. I asked my son to start it to see if that would fix the issue. However, it wouldn't turnover. Just a click when you turned the key. So yesterday I took it to get a new battery at O'Reilly. The guy didn't have an ABS code reader but he said the battery was just about done so I bought a new one with the same specs as the old one.
I had read that low/dead batteries could cause the dash light problems so I thought the two things might be connected. However, the problem continued as soon as I drove off and got to 10 mph or whatever it is.
So this morning I took it to get the oil changed and asked the guy to read the ABS codes. He pulled a couple, including a C2200 and a stored code that was something about low power. Then he cleared the codes and took a quick spin. The lights all came back on and the C2200 came back (Anti-lock Brake Module Internal).
I've noticed the MPGs seem to be higher than normal. Usually reads about 13.4, but after driving the Jeep 15 miles or so it was up to 19. This seems like a possible rear speed sensor problem, but it isn't showing a code for that.
Due to the timing of everything, it seems the dying battery might be the culprit, but is there a way to reset everything to see (other than clearing the codes with a scanner)? Rear speed sensors are cheap and easy to replace, but not sure that is the issue.
Also, looks like you can replace the ABS Module easy enough, but the part looks like it's about $200 and then you have to have a dealership flash it for another $100?
Anyone dealt with this issue connected to a change in the battery?
Here's the thing. Have an 07 JKU. It has a lot of mods on it, which I were on it when I bought it two years ago. There is quite a bit of wiring to the battery, between a winch and LEDs, etc. It could have probably been wired better. Haven't really had any problems with it in the last two years. My son drives it most of the time.
On Friday night, I went to drive it and the ABS/ESP BAS/Traction Control/Brake lights all came on after I started driving. Asked son and he said it had just started doing that. The next day I checked the brake fluid and it looked a hair low, so I topped of the reservoir. I asked my son to start it to see if that would fix the issue. However, it wouldn't turnover. Just a click when you turned the key. So yesterday I took it to get a new battery at O'Reilly. The guy didn't have an ABS code reader but he said the battery was just about done so I bought a new one with the same specs as the old one.
I had read that low/dead batteries could cause the dash light problems so I thought the two things might be connected. However, the problem continued as soon as I drove off and got to 10 mph or whatever it is.
So this morning I took it to get the oil changed and asked the guy to read the ABS codes. He pulled a couple, including a C2200 and a stored code that was something about low power. Then he cleared the codes and took a quick spin. The lights all came back on and the C2200 came back (Anti-lock Brake Module Internal).
I've noticed the MPGs seem to be higher than normal. Usually reads about 13.4, but after driving the Jeep 15 miles or so it was up to 19. This seems like a possible rear speed sensor problem, but it isn't showing a code for that.
Due to the timing of everything, it seems the dying battery might be the culprit, but is there a way to reset everything to see (other than clearing the codes with a scanner)? Rear speed sensors are cheap and easy to replace, but not sure that is the issue.
Also, looks like you can replace the ABS Module easy enough, but the part looks like it's about $200 and then you have to have a dealership flash it for another $100?
Anyone dealt with this issue connected to a change in the battery?
#2
JK Freak
Low batteries and poor battery terminal connections can cause a whole lot of lights to come on. You got a new battery so that rules out corroded terminals. Are the battery cables completely flush/seated on the terminals? You mention your wiring, can you post a pic of the battery?
Battery is secured well? Give it a tug to make sure.
My next step after checking the battery would be to go ahead and replace all 4 wheel speed sensors. They're cheap and easy. If the lights are still on, check the wires to make sure they didn't get chewed or cut up somewhere.
Don't throw any money at anything until you check your battery and replace wheel speed sensors.
Battery is secured well? Give it a tug to make sure.
My next step after checking the battery would be to go ahead and replace all 4 wheel speed sensors. They're cheap and easy. If the lights are still on, check the wires to make sure they didn't get chewed or cut up somewhere.
Don't throw any money at anything until you check your battery and replace wheel speed sensors.
#3
JK Jedi
I can't say I've run across the C2200 before. Is that throwing the jeep in limp mode as well, or just causing the lights to come on? Often once those ABS codes are on they are throwing a code in the transmission module that puts it in limp mode. This is when it's really helpful to have a code readers that can dig down into the various modules yourself. It cuts out so much time. Jscan is a very powerful tool for ~$35 between the app license and BT dongle, and BlueDriver is a great tool that is usable across all vehicles, but costs closer to $100.
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Here's the wiring situation. I actually bought some new post terminals to try to condense all the connections and clean it up a little.
Right now, the battery is snug in there and so are all the connections. However I found this when we were changing the battery, not connected to anything. It is coming off an LED I think. I guess it's a ground. The connector was wrapped in electrical tape and doesn't look like it pulled off anywhere.
I thought I'd seen something about speed sensor codes. And there wasn't one. Might try to do the rears since they are easiest.
As for the Jeep driving, everything works normal. No limits on anything that I can tell. Cruise control even works.
One thing I read somewhere is the system can relearn after 200 miles. Drove about 120 miles today.
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By the way, I bought a code reader awhile back, but it doesn't do ABS codes. I almost bought the BlueDriver but decided against it at the last minute. Ended up getting a Foxwell. Wasn't thinking about ABS codes at the time.
Is the BlueDriver good for stuff like this?
Is the BlueDriver good for stuff like this?
#6
JK Jedi
Dang.....I just realized, you're likely couple miles away from me! The BlueDriver is nice cuz it's good across all vehicles, and I have 5 older cars so I'm always troubleshooting something. For the Jeep I often prefer the Jscan cuz it seems to be a little faster. What's nice is you get the programming features on top of diagnostics. The downside it is tied to the VIN via the app license, but it's cheap.
Have been looking at a few threads regarding the C2200, but haven't had time to dig too deep into them. On the plus side, with no side effects seems like you have a little time. It does seem like a few comments about it going away with time, but also a few that actually replaced the module.
Have been looking at a few threads regarding the C2200, but haven't had time to dig too deep into them. On the plus side, with no side effects seems like you have a little time. It does seem like a few comments about it going away with time, but also a few that actually replaced the module.
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resharp: thanks for the responses. Yep, we live pretty close, although I didn't notice until you pointed it out. Looks like doing the actual replacement of the module isn't too bad, especially if you don't have to mess with the pump and bleeding the brakes. But if it requires getting the dealer to flash it, makes you wonder if the replacement would even be necessary in the first place, or if it just needs to be flashed right now. Wish you could do it with a home scanner...
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#8
JK Freak
I've had the ABS throw codes before when I had a cut wire, BUT I did also have codes for the wheel speed sensor.
Now I'm stumped and curious. I'll do some researching as well.
Now I'm stumped and curious. I'll do some researching as well.
#9
JK Enthusiast
ABS Module Alternative Issue
A year ago my son had the same light tree show up on his '07. ABS internal module code shown, but hmmm ABS still functioned. While poking around I realized that he had a pinhole leak in the upper radiator hose that was spraying a fine mist of anitfreeze up inside the hood. Somehow it was making it's way down to the back of the front wheels. I degreased the entire engine cabin and the back of the wheels (I know, not great for brake pads). Code disappeared and hasn't come back. Not saying that it's going to be your issue, but obviously the sensors are very well, sensitive. Might be worth cleaning them before you go to the expense of a new module.
Last edited by RepressedSince15; 05-27-2020 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Typo
#10
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New Development. After sitting a few days, Jeep was deader than a doornail last night. (Battery only 2 weeks old). Voltage meter read .01. Jumped it and it read 14.15, but then after running awhile, 13.5. Then after driving to O'Reilly to get battery checked, it read 13.1. They said the alternator/voltage regular needed to be replaced. Bought a new one and changed it today. Voltage readings are a lot better. Hoped that would solve the Christmas tree problem, but the lights came back on.
Still think this issue is electrical, so if the lights don't go out after more driving around, I'll start playing with connections, grounds, etc. Maybe replace the speed sensors.
Still think this issue is electrical, so if the lights don't go out after more driving around, I'll start playing with connections, grounds, etc. Maybe replace the speed sensors.