6inch rough country long arm kit
#21
JK Junkie
Funny how somebody can install a 2.5 lift and complain of flighty steering until caster correction is added. Then theres the few with 6" lifts w/ 1-2° caster and claim it steers great. I know ride in general is subjective but keeping the jeep straight at 70 mph is not.
I have no problem with a tall lift, if it were me id plan for a aftermarket housing with added caster and pinion.
The kit is not too bad. As said i would stay around 3-4" tops. Radius arms get mixed opinions. Ive never rid in a JK with them but my brother had the RC arms on a cherokee. The arms were beefy, It handled fine and he beat that thing. Bushings all looked good when removed later when the jeep was parted out. RC shocks get mixed reviews as well and im not a fan of DPA's. At least RC now uses a raised TB bracket. Replace the DPA with a flipped DL instead. I will admit RC looks to have been improved and a lot of their stuff doesn't look too bad. That and CS from what i see is top notch if you ever have a problem.
I have no problem with a tall lift, if it were me id plan for a aftermarket housing with added caster and pinion.
The kit is not too bad. As said i would stay around 3-4" tops. Radius arms get mixed opinions. Ive never rid in a JK with them but my brother had the RC arms on a cherokee. The arms were beefy, It handled fine and he beat that thing. Bushings all looked good when removed later when the jeep was parted out. RC shocks get mixed reviews as well and im not a fan of DPA's. At least RC now uses a raised TB bracket. Replace the DPA with a flipped DL instead. I will admit RC looks to have been improved and a lot of their stuff doesn't look too bad. That and CS from what i see is top notch if you ever have a problem.
#22
I don't know the pros and cons of radius arms, but my gut says they aren't great for a daily driver. Radius arms are so simplistic why would oems not be using them if they had advantages? Instead of using them jeep put a lot of thought into the 4 link design so I'm guessing it must be better since it's also definitely more complicated. I also suspect castor changes more as suspension cycles with radius arms probably resulting in bizarre handling at high speeds. (This is all conjecture on my part.) Secondly what's the point of a 6" lift and all the issues it presents (driveline, low castor, and bump steer) if you don't get more clearance than a 3" short arm lift? Here's a pic of my short arm lift with 3" springs above that long arm kit. Are you really gaining anything with those extra inches height and all that crap hanging under your belly? Edit: I went outside and just took a picture of my rig from about the same angle as that one of the radius arm set up for a better comparison...
#23
Funny how somebody can install a 2.5 lift and complain of flighty steering until caster correction is added. Then theres the few with 6" lifts w/ 1-2° caster and claim it steers great. I know ride in general is subjective but keeping the jeep straight at 70 mph is not. I have no problem with a tall lift, if it were me id plan for a aftermarket housing with added caster and pinion. The kit is not too bad. As said i would stay around 3-4" tops. Radius arms get mixed opinions. Ive never rid in a JK with them but my brother had the RC arms on a cherokee. The arms were beefy, It handled fine and he beat that thing. Bushings all looked good when removed later when the jeep was parted out. RC shocks get mixed reviews as well and im not a fan of DPA's. At least RC now uses a raised TB bracket. Replace the DPA with a flipped DL instead. I will admit RC looks to have been improved and a lot of their stuff doesn't look too bad. That and CS from what i see is top notch if you ever have a problem.
#24
I assume theres more adjustment to those arms. 40's are tough regardless, besides the width trimming needs to be done to clear on up travel.
#25
#26
In your opinion or anyone else's what size lift should I go with and be able to clear 40s? Thanks! Would you totally rule this lift out? Apperently they have a 5 year warrenty in springs and a 3 year on there shocks that I won't be using anyway. Lifetime on everything else they say. Also to replace all the bushings in the control arms costs me about 100 in parts.
#27
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Not the best solution, but have you considered adding any bumpstop to keep the tires from moving up so far?
You mentioned arms, would moving the axle back a bit help enough to stop the contact?
Last edited by nthinuf; 09-02-2016 at 09:08 AM.
#28
Arms would do a world of a difference I could run 37s comfortably. I believe. The lift I got back in the day was a very cheap budget with fixed arms. This is a 3.5inch lift all suspension though.
#30
JK Junkie
Looks to me like a good set of control arms, drive shafts, and some money on a good sawzall or die grinder instead of buying that big o long arm lift.
You have some space in those wheel wells and plenty of lift as it is. I have a 3.5" lift on 35s and could easily fit 38s with some cutting the way my CAs are setup. You definitely need some CAs in the rear to get that axle back a bit for some clearance.
Just my opinion, buy the 40s, and some good parts, you can make it work as she stands.
You have some space in those wheel wells and plenty of lift as it is. I have a 3.5" lift on 35s and could easily fit 38s with some cutting the way my CAs are setup. You definitely need some CAs in the rear to get that axle back a bit for some clearance.
Just my opinion, buy the 40s, and some good parts, you can make it work as she stands.