Dynatrac

There's really not a lot you can do. The diff parts are just smaller than what is required for moderate to aggressive wheeling with a rig your size and weight. 6200# is heavy and it could get heavier with added gear. Trucks of this weight usually have full float axles to handle the weight.

If you're not willing to upgrade axles I'd work to lighten the rig. You can save a lot of weight with aluminum bumpers, skids etc but it might be cheaper to just upgrade axles.

I'm not in any way saying you can't wheel your rig. I'm simply saying that with a rear 44 axle fully polished, there is little or no strength margin with a vehicle of your weight and size.

tattedfire

X2 on this!! My rear is a full float so when I walk up to my jeep and see that full float hub in the center of the rear wheel I have confidence in my axle choice

big dr

I went pr60's front and rear and love them. I feel like the extra width helps get back a lot of the stability the lift takes away. I'm running 37's with 5.13 gears, but will go to 38 or 39's on beadlocks in the future. Mine is a 2 door and I'm keeping the stock power, so I didn't feel the need to go full float in the rear. If I break a pr60 with only 285 HP, i did something stupid!

rcdude3

Its more of the flanges bending.

big dr

Are you talking about the 1310's,, I went with 1350's

k.baker B.D.O.R

Price is my problem with the 60s but I'd like to do that what am I looking at and well my stock shafts work for now

rcdude3

The wheel flanges. Where the wheel studs go through and the wheel mounts to it.