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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
You will need the HP Tuners to access both the Chev ECU and the Jeep ECU. So you need 2 credits from HP for Jeep and whatever that Chev needs (in my case 2). I was #2 LT/8L90 self installed kit by Robbie. Had no instructions but got lots of support from them. I could not fit the plastic covers on my engine due to clearances but mine was early JK - did not cut the battery box. Did you send the wiring harnesses to Motech? I am a 5.3 so running stock rad with SS fan adapted to it. I have ABS issues with mine now so no speedo and cruise and it speeds way over speed limit using phone GPS. Mine is more economical than the V6 by simply doing similar trips and watching fuel gauge go down slower now and a lot more power so with the 6.2 you will be better. Watch out for wheel spin between gear shifts.
That tranny must have been designed by Chev thinking it would go in a Jeep. Run it for a few days as it will learn and change shifting program. Robbie and I talked about mine but as the days wear on it is shifting better by itself. There is a write up on the internet about the learn procedure for 8L90 shifting and I suggest you do it. All done with very light throttle not drag race. All the best as the Jeeps come alive with this conversion.
Good to know about the HP credits. I was thinking I would only need the 2 for the GM side as I was removing the Chrysler side. I actually just got the instructions after talking with Robbie the other day. Definitely cleared things up. I did send them my harness but apparently there was an issue with it and they are now sending me a new factory one. Hoping to have that in a day or two and then at least starting it with the body off. How difficult was it to modify the SS fan to a stock radiator? Fitment was fine? I want to do that when I install the 5.3L in my own build.
Actually the fan fits perfect with the dimensions of the Jeep rad. I modified some plastic brackets sticking off the fan housing and they matched to the rubber lined Vee mounts at the bottom of the rad. Then I fabbed some flatbar type brackets the lined up with SS fan holes on side and drilled the brackets to suit the side rad shroud mounts. Used HD foam tape sticky on one side to fill all gaps so that all air now goes through the rad. Made an aluminum 'C' channel to go across the top for filler and voila. I will try and take pictures but difficult now as under the hood gets busy once everything is in there. AC hoses go past the fan down lower to connect to Jeep hose and rad. Only issue I have is there is no place for the rad overflow bottle that Robbie supplies. May have to hack out the front of the TIPM holder where old air cleaner was to get vertical room beside PS reservoir. In Calgary a hot day is 90F and it runs cool. You may want to think about that due to being in AZ.
Are you using the 8 speed or 6 speed? I suggest you get the 8 if you can.
Hi All.. I noticed this thread is relevant to the shop doing my swap and stuck in a situation where the radiator is not fitting with the upper rad hose and air intake. We went with the camaro intake as suggested by motech and have the dual pass rad from motech with the stock fan in an 07 jk. Issue is the intake tube and upper hose (used with a spreader tube) will interfere due to the camaro intake being lower than the stock truck intake originally on the engine. Im told by motech my options are:
1. modify the upper passenger side neck to be lowered on the rad so that the upper hose can travel perhaps beneath the air intake
2. go back to the truck intake but im told by my installer that it wont clear the firewall although motech says it works all the time for their customers
3. go to a single pass rad with the upper neck on the drivers side which they can swap for the one they originally gave me
4. source my own single pass rad with the upper neck on the drivers side
Any suggestions based on the above options? Did anyone come across the same issues and found an easier way?
The radiator I was shipped has the neck on the driver side making an easy access to the thermostat housing. Do you have the wrong radiator for a Gen V swap? What part number radiator did they send you? I have Northern Radiator 205253. The lower hose then runs from the water pump, down and across using their spreader tube, up to the lower inlet on the passenger side.
I am running the Camero SS fan and dual pass. There is no clearance between the fan shroud and intake boot which I'm not all too thrilled with.
Also the hose I was told to get for the upper (Gates 23234) is about 1/4" too big for both the radiator and thermostat housing. I was told by them to "snug it down" with a clamp which it leaks after a cold soak...so I have to find a different hose that will work.
I don't have your engine (mine is an L96). I have the camaro radiator and fan. I'm using the truck intake and it does, indeed, fit. it's VERY close to the firewall. As in the heater hoses touch the intake and the firewall. This worked for several years. I had a sleeve over the heater hoses to keep them from wearing through. Eventually, I installed a 1 inch body lift which then made for much better clearance.
I realize that's not much help, but thought I'd give you another data point.
Yea no idea on what the part number is. I don't believe we ever got a parts list in the shipment. This kit was ordered summer of 2018 and took till late November to get them all in from motech to start the swap (installer didn't want to start till he had everything). Many hurdles we have gone through to get to today and now we are still stuck. Things didnt go so well from both sides and of course Im in the middle trying to figure it out. Waiting to hear from motech if they will swap the rad.
JRunner, even though I did the 5.3LT/8L90 I offer these suggestions for you;
1. Shorten the hose where it connects to top engine outlet by about 1" if you can get it back on. Light vaseline makes em slide on easier. Won't leak. Line it up to try and go across beneath the fan connection plug.
2. Shorten the hose (similar to item 1) at the top of the rad and move the cross hose closer to the rad. Off set it so it descends slightly past the fan electrical plug and slightly beneath. Make an angled joiner pipe, to meet the other hose, using aluminized exhaust tubing. Try to get a clamp anchor band crinkled in each end to anchor the clamp or run a straight weld bead around about 1/2" in. Do not let the hose bind on anything. If it does use a large ADEL clamp and anchor it where it binds or wrap another piece of rad hose as an outer wear piece. Motor does not move much. The point here is to go underneath the air intake. If you have a raised hood (custom not the Hard Rock as it is useless for this) then the intake can go much higher. Use good spring loaded rad hose clamps.
3. Seal that big gap between the rad and fan with a high density foam tape, and ALL AROUND the rad to fan joint where air can bypass the rad. Make lengths of aluminum shroud cover to hold the seal tape in - talking length of rad and about 1-1/2" wide with custom bending to suit shapes and steps. ALL air that passes through must come through rad. Trust me it will take the easy path which means overheat if it is sneaking in somewhere else. Lots of custom work here.
4. Just to prove it - I used the stock Jeep rad (can on a 5.3) did all the sealing and in close to 100*F heat it will idle and crawl all day in the bush as it has done and not overheat. SS fan only goes about 15% at most.
5. If you swap the rad then the simple fix is to get Robbies lower tubing system and you have to run the lower hose across underneath if the bottom connection is opposite.
6. You are going to have a bitch of a time getting that air intake on. That first elbow is a long radius and takes up a lot of room. Alternator is in the way - hence the raised hood suggestion.
Hopefully this helps my written suggestions are easy to follow. Mine is a different setup so not really worth a picture but I could snap one if you want.
You will need the HP Tuners to access both the Chev ECU and the Jeep ECU. So you need 2 credits from HP for Jeep and whatever that Chev needs (in my case 2). I was #2 LT/8L90 self installed kit by Robbie. Had no instructions but got lots of support from them. I could not fit the plastic covers on my engine due to clearances but mine was early JK - did not cut the battery box. Did you send the wiring harnesses to Motech? I am a 5.3 so running stock rad with SS fan adapted to it. I have ABS issues with mine now so no speedo and cruise and it speeds way over speed limit using phone GPS. Mine is more economical than the V6 by simply doing similar trips and watching fuel gauge go down slower now and a lot more power so with the 6.2 you will be better. Watch out for wheel spin between gear shifts.
That tranny must have been designed by Chev thinking it would go in a Jeep. Run it for a few days as it will learn and change shifting program. Robbie and I talked about mine but as the days wear on it is shifting better by itself. There is a write up on the internet about the learn procedure for 8L90 shifting and I suggest you do it. All done with very light throttle not drag race. All the best as the Jeeps come alive with this conversion.
I just got this running on Monday and am now ready to dive into HP Tuners with it. I did drive it before and you are not kidding, the trans is all over the place! After about 20 miles I can already tell a difference in shift strategy. I have a couple questions for you if you have a moment:
Did you have any warning lights on the cluster after the swap related to the Jeep side? I currently have the red "brake" light, the red flashing "lightning bolt" light for throttle control, and also a traction/ESP control light. I am hoping I can address this with HP Tuners tomorrow when I dive into it.
As far as the GM side did you change or adjust anything specific outside of the tune Motech sent loaded in the ECM?
I just received my MPVI2 from HP Tuners and will be buying credits for both sides of the vehicle.
Thank you in advance for any advice.
Your in AZ, I would highly recommend you just go to Zero Gravity in Mesa AZ and have him tune your trans. The guy is the engineer that wrote the program for GM. no one in the country is better or can make the adjustments he can. All commercially available programmers cannot get deep into the trans computer. He has the only program outside of GM that can.
07-04-2020, 03:53 PM
