I'll save the shock compression and bumpstop for another thread, but...


Can you pull your 2" spacers for your trip to save the drvieshaft until your budget works out?

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Yes I could pull them it's very easy to do but it drives so much better on the road with them I think I'll just order the rear upper control arms and then do the drive shaft when I get to Alberta

 

So much wrong here...hopefully no one suggested you put 2" spacers on top of an incomplete 3" lift.


Bumpstops are to stop your shocks from bottoming out. If your shocks act as your bumpstops, you will destroy them in short order.

Shocks for a 3" lift on a 5" lift will top out. If your shocks don't fail first from bottoming out, they will fail from topping out hard...or the bar pins will break.

At 4" lift or more, you need steering correction. The best kind is a drag link flip kit. Without it, your drag link and trackbar angles will be too steep and your steering will respond poorly.

The Zone 3" lift has a rear trackbar relocation bracket. A centered rear axle is vital on a JK because the clearances between the rear brakelines, sway bar links, sway bar, and wheels is so tight. By running the additional 2" coil spacers, your rear axle is not centered. This may end up causing a serious problem if your hard brakelines get tangled with the sway bar or links, or if your links come into contact with the tire or wheel.

Anything over 3" lift on a 2 dr begins to result in rear spring bowing that reduces the spring rate, and causes the springs to sag. By the time you have a 5" lift on a 2 dr, the rear lower coil perches need to be cut off, rotated forward, and welded back on the axle tubes for the springs to be straight.

If you get rear upper control arms to adjust your pinion angle to reduce the pinion side joint angle of the driveshaft, it still won't fix the severity of the transfer case end joint. Additionally, if you rotate the axle to set the pinion side angle, this will rotate the rear lower coil perches that much further back. The springs will bow even further without perch relocation. You greatly increase the risk of the rear coils from unseating from the perch off road without relocation.

You already know that you will need a pair of new driveshafts soon due to 5" on a 2 dr.

Your front axle is off center as well. A 5" lift with the stock front trackbar will result in clearance problems with the brakelines. I have seen brakelines fail from rubbing/clearance problems even with a 3" lift that doesn't include an adjustable front trackbar.

Of course, your steering will be terrible due to the overly steep angles of the drag link and trackbar, but what is even worse is the low caster from running 5" on stock front control arms.

Next, as soon as your shocks fail due to insufficient bumpstopping and frequent topping out, you will run into new problems when you get shocks long enough for a 5" lift. Your brake lines and ABS lines will all be too short. They will be damaged if you offroad with shocks for a 5" lift. You will need extended braklines and you will need to re-route the ABS lines. You may even need to splice additional length into the ABS lines in the front if your shocks are too long.

Your sway bar links are also too short for a 5" lift. This will be detrimental to handling on and off road.

Finally, a 5" short arm lift will have a poor center of gravity and a poor ride-especially on a 2 dr. Anything more than a 4" lift really needs long arms to drive and handle well.


So, what next for a 5" lift on a 2 dr?

Front and rear aftermarket driveshafts
Extended brakelines
Rerouted ABS lines, possibly splicing length into the front lines.
Longer shocks
Longer extended bumpstops
Longer sway bar links
A long arm upgrade...or at least all 8 adjustable short arms.
Cut off and re-weld the rear lower coil perches on the rear axle to straighten the springs.
Adjustable rear trackbar with a raised axle side trackbar bracket
Adjustable front trackbar
Drag link flip kit
Larger tires
Regear
Chromoly axle shafts
Lockers

 

Maybe you should pull those 2" spacers and just use a body lift to get back some of the height you want.

 

^Totally agree, or pull the 2" and try a 1" and see if that helps.

 

Lol some one spends to much time reading, I have moved the brake lines and have adjustable front sway bar links, you don't need a long arm for it to ride good if that was the case I would of stuck with the 3" lift I have had zero problems on or off road with it set up like this besides the drive shaft issue and I know that needs to be replaced, as for the spring purches there are kits to move them and so on but none of that is a problem right now as I am only driving it on the road until I get the control arms and driveshafts, I need to get the control arms first because I am going to extend the wheel base a bit there for need to measure for the shafts, I have a locker for the rear but waiting for the gears to do it all at once, I have no problems with the steering at all and it drives better like this on the road than it did with the zone 3" kit but I thank you for your input as that's why I posted this here,

 

And a body lift isn't going to stop my undercarriage from hitting stuff I am not a fan of body lifts they are pointless and look stupid

 

One could argue 5" of lift with cut fenders and 33s looks stupid

 

I don't think he acquired all that knowledge just by reading. And don't shake his input off, Planman is one of, if not the, most knowledgable people on this forum.

 

The two best comments here (among a group of good ones). Ignore them at your own peril.