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5.13 or 4.88 Installer doesn't want to do 5.13

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Old 01-23-2015, 03:03 PM
  #11  
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Doing gears isn't that hard. Read up, gather the tools needed and tackle. If they break, you know how to fix it
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:49 PM
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I do all my work. I have read up on gear more times than I can count but have trouble finding enough info on how the pinion stuff works
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4

That just increases the torque on the gears. Snappy, snappy

If you do it though, you should fan a little bracket up for the diff that holds a pin. Then when it grenades, you can take a pic of it with the pin pulled
So what do you suggest I do not regear? Drop 4000 on a new axle? I'm not the first buy a long shot regearing a D30
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by medic_23387
I do all my work. I have read up on gear more times than I can count but have trouble finding enough info on how the pinion stuff works
A decent writeup from a few years back. Something I have been wanting to do, just not on my daily driver/only vehicle.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...gearing-82262/
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by medic_23387
So what do you suggest I do not regear? Drop 4000 on a new axle? I'm not the first buy a long shot regearing a D30
I started with a D30. Went to light 37s and "didn't want to risk it" and bought Rubi axles that were fully beefed. In 6 months I toasted Synergy ball joints, a drag link, front hub, and blew up a ring and pinion (4.88 gears). Also torched both rear wheel bearings. Your wheels and tires weigh a crap ton more.

What do I suggest? Do what you can the right way. If you can't afford a D60 or don't have the skills to build one, sell the wheels and tires and get some 35s.

Shoot man, your gear shop is telling you it won't work. Do what you want. Your money.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by medic_23387
So what do you suggest I do not regear? Drop 4000 on a new axle? I'm not the first buy a long shot regearing a D30
And to be clear, I'd say it's stupid to consider a D44. You're rolling a D30. Do it, man. Let us know how it works out. I had RCV shafts. Bad ass until they didn't break and blew my gears up.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:36 PM
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You can't fault an honest installer.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:58 PM
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If its a mall crawler, go for it. If you plan to wheel, don't lock it and stay of the skinny. Oh and keep you fingers crossed
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 2climbbig
If its a mall crawler, go for it. If you plan to wheel, don't lock it and stay of the skinny. Oh and keep you fingers crossed
What's a mall crawler?? Bahahaha

I blew up my 5.13 gears with 35's on my 09 JKU auto going up a little snow bank..... I now have a PR44, RCV's, Dynatrac ball joints, Reid Knuckles, ARB air lockers with 5.13 gears..... Hoping I'm fine now on lighter 37" MTR's .... BUT just bought some Trail Ready beadlock wheels going on in March..... Just wondering how much extra weight and stress the TR's will add....
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by robsjeep9
What's a mall crawler?? Bahahaha I blew up my 5.13 gears with 35's on my 09 JKU auto going up a little snow bank..... I now have a PR44, RCV's, Dynatrac ball joints, Reid Knuckles, ARB air lockers with 5.13 gears..... Hoping I'm fine now on lighter 37" MTR's .... BUT just bought some Trail Ready beadlock wheels going on in March..... Just wondering how much extra weight and stress the TR's will add....
Refer to pictures of my front D44 6 months after going to 37" MTRs on beadlocks. And I'm a light two door
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