TheDirtman

It would be a big improvement over not having the high steer. Your caster will be out of spec by quite a bit and you will have a very light steering feel but it will track better and bump steer should be greatly reduced.
Dont ignore the driveshafts either, while you don't need to address them right away just be ready in case they do fail on you.

TheDirtman

Moving to 4" of lift vs a 2.5" is going to do really nothing for you. Not sure why you want to mess with it.

kjeeper10

Should handle good. Ride in general is subjective and theres other factors at play.

lonesometree

Even with the control arm brackets? What would fix the caster? Adjustable arms? Wouldn't the brackets correct pinion angles to reduce stress in driveshafts? Sorry for all the questions. I was never good at geometry. Ha.

As far as the extra 1.5 inches...I guess I just wanted to beef up my components. My lift is only shocks and springs. Nothing else. All stock parts. And if I'm gonna put new parts on I might as well put the new lift while I have the turd apart. However I am open to suggestions. What parts should I add if I keep the 2.5 lift?

kjeeper10

AEV claims more pinion rise putting it more inline as the axle cycles. Our stock geometry raises the pinion anyways. As far as operating angles no.
Brackets raise caster and smooth out the ride.

TheDirtman

I missed the drop brackets in your post. If you add those it should be like keeper said.
Lift height is up to you but the higher you go the more you replace. At 4" typically replace everything.

lonesometree

I think I'll start with track bar and control arm brackets and the flip drag link. Then go from there as time and $$ allow. Thanks for all your input. Much appreciated!

lonesometree

If I use drop brackets will that reduce strain on driveshafts? Will it buy time until I can do full adjustable arm kit? Also will track bar brackets work until I can add adjustable bars? I assume driveshafts, tie rod, gears etc would be future needs also.

kjeeper10

You can run brackets only and keep the stock TB's as long as its not too high.

In the front arms are not going to benefit over brackets as far as angles.
In the rear you only need arms if running a aftermarket DS (uppers)

lonesometree

Dude I truly appreciate all your advice. I think I'm pretty confident about what I need. And what I can expect.