donjuan79

I only get shitty with people when they’re condescending douchebags. Which you’ve been since day one when I simply asked about a track bar. Two different times since I’ve tried to give you the benefit of the doubt and interact with you again to no avail because unless everyone is running exactly what you’re running and how you’re running it then they’re just stupid and going to have issues. Issues you can never seem to define. Yesterday you commented about the driveshaft, that’s all fine and well, then you start talking about issues in the front at 6.5 and I simply replied telling you my setup, which is really and truly built for 5.5-6.5 inches of lift, and that I talked to the manufacturers who said what I want to do would be fine. I wasn’t a dick in the slightest. Again trying to give you another chance. And like usual rather than giving me ANY examples whatsoever you get condescending again and tell me to go ahead and do it and you’ll wait for my thread when I have those supposed issues. You want to know what issue I’m having, it’s that I don’t have enough lift for the setup I built because I thought the springs were going to give me more lift than they did. I could give you examples of how I know this but that would be pointless because “you don’t want to hear it” in your words. I should be on springs that give me a minimum of 5.5 inches. And like I said yesterday, if I were to get the MC 5.5 coils they would end up putting me at about 6.5 anyway since that 5.5 is based on full armor and all that extra weight most guys have, which I do not. I know a number of people running the same kit as me, the MC 5.5, and it yielded 6.5 because they’re light, and they’re not having any “issues” literally the only person saying that is you. So, again, please explain to me these issues, I’d be glad to hear them and look into them.

TheDirtman

I have never told anyone to run what I have, I actually tell people not to do what I have done. You like making shit up. I almost always recommend people that use their jeeps as a daily driver run a 2-2.5" with 35" max tires. If you like to go off road quite a bit 37's are a good place to be but with the necessary mods. My set up is a long arm double triangulated 4 link rear with 4 link + pan hard up front running 18" travel 3" tripple bypass and 2.5" coil overs on each corner with 2.5" front hydraulic bump stops and 2" hydraulic bump stops in the rear. I limit my front travel to 16" due to drive shaft bind, 7" up 9" down travel. Rear has 21" of actual travel 9" up 12" down before I get bind. I run a 72" WMS dana 60 front and a 68" WMS dana 80 rear with 2" wheel adapters. My wheel base is stretched to 112" and sits on 40"x12.5" Baja compound KR3 tires on Method bead locks with 4.5" of back spacing. My actual lift height is around 3.5". My entire set up is custom and there are only a handful of rigs that are even close to the set up I have. It's more buggy than jeep at this point.

If so many people are running 6.5" of lift with absolutely no issues why did you even ask the question? If you have any knowledge of suspensions you would see what the issues are going to be. I would say people that are installing 6.5" of lift have no idea of what they are doing and would be interested in seeing the entire build before making the statement that they have no issues as all.

I thought you were running OME coils and shocks?

And thank you for allowing me to help YOU. I feel so honored.

TheDirtman

Do you have a Double Cardon shaft up front? Factory axle?

donjuan79

Staying 2-2.5 on 35s as a daily is your opinion. I know a lot of people that would disagree with you though. It’s all about how it’s built. And in case you forgot, the question I asked was about the rear driveshaft. Nothing else. Because I couldn’t find much about replacing them other than when they go bad, which mine is not. Now if someone had said yea after x.x amount of lift to you need to swap because of xxxx issue then I would go ahead and replace it. Which is what I was asking. The reason more people don’t go 4.5+ is because of cost. I’ve got over 5k in my suspension to be at 4.5 inches. Most people want to spend a couple hundred, maybe a grand and call it a day. I spent the money to have it right. And yes, I have 4 inch OME springs and 4-6 inch OME shocks. I went with the OME springs because they are very similar to factory rates at 135 front and 175 rear with stock being 122 front and 167 rear. They ride really nice. The shocks I went with because A they’re valved for my springs, and B because MC actually sold them with their 4.5 and 5.5 kits before they made their Rocksports or 6 packs. So I knew they’d have the travel I needed. I’ll admit my mistake on the springs because I’m literally getting exactly 4 inches of lift from them, but my last springs gave me a full inch over what the advertised lift height was, so I just expected the OME’s to do the same and put me about 5 inches, and with the 1/2 inch spacers I have front and rear that would put me at the minimum of 5.5 that I’m built for. They did not. I actually didn’t want to do 2 in the rear and 2.5 in the front, but without stacking or spending a ton on adjustable spacers there’s just no way to do it. No 1.5 spacers available for the rear and no 2 inch spacers available for the front without stacking which I’m not about to do. I can get 2 Inch rear and 2.5 inch front that are both solid though. So that’s what I’m looking to do. I already know I might have to add shock extensions if the shocks bottom out, but other than that in talking to a bunch of guys running the MC 5.5 kit exactly how mine is minus the OME springs and getting more like 6.5 they have zero issues wheeling hard and thousands of miles on road. I think you think I’m going higher just for the sake of doing it, when really I’m just trying to get to the height I need for the setup I built without buying new springs all over again or stacking spacers. You find me solid 1.5 rears and solid 2 inch fronts and I’ll buy them instead. Yes I have a double cardan up front. Non greasable. Axles and gears will get done when I go to 39 inch KM3s.

TheDirtman

I gave you an answer for the rear and said you would have issues up front. You asked what issues so don't give me that shit about only asking about the rear. You still did not answer the simple question I asked about your set up.

I assume you have a factory front axle with a CV front shaft with greasable joints. While this type of driveshaft is ok for a mild lift, it is actually the wrong route to go with the factory non caster corrected axle. Because the fact you have to rotate the pinion down to get acceptable caster in the front axle a single u-joint at each end is the proper driveshaft to use. A sealed u-joint should also be used due to the strength differences. As you put more angle in a U-joint you loose strength and introduce vibrations. The more lift you have the more angle the u-joints have. U-joints also do not have unlimited misalignments, at a point your u-joint will bind on itself and break it or the yoke. I find you will typically break the yoke and recommend using a flange mount and make sure limit travel at the differential as not to put the drive line in bind. Since I am just some douchebag on the internet here is a good bit of driveline geometry info with photos to help you understand.
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-te...onversion-kits

I have never seen you talk about high steer. I assume you are still running the factory set up. Bump steer and axle shift will be a big deal if so. Flat steering links are ideal for eliminating these things and are best achieved with 3.5-4" of lift and high steer. Going higher reintroduces the affects of bump steer and axle shift.

IMO the rear drop brackets are a waste of money and the same thing can be achieved with better results by addressing the axle brackets. You will get not only the geometry is better but you also get better clearance under the axle where many people get hung up on off road.

A rear raised track bar on the axle is highly recommended for a better ride, don't know if you have that or not but the flatter that rear track bar the better.

I don't know the specs on your shocks so I can't tell if you will have issues or not. I would doubt you have the shocks and bumps correctly set up since most people won't take the time to do it right.

You will experience more body roll and will be "tippy" off road.

What size tires are you running anyway?

TheDirtman

I would not put a lot of trust into Adams, I had one of their builds come to my shop and it was all messed up. Was scary to drive. Was told it was a $100,000 build. RK junk for the suspension with improperly sized king smoothies. Only good thing about the build is that they used Fusion dana 60 axles.

donjuan79

ok I’m guessing you didn’t actually read anything I’ve said because you would have all your answers as to my build. I’m also guessing you’re not familiar with Metalcloak then. I asked about the rear driveshaft, my front one is already swapped. I clearly stated that. You said the rear would be fine but at 6.5 inches in front I would have issues. And I asked what issues since everyone else I talked to said I’d be fine. I guess that’s my fault for assuming you actually read what I said. I told you I’m on a full MC 5.5 Gamechanger kit minus the springs, with all the extras you can get, like the front and rear drop brackets and Hi-steer, etc etc and that I have an adams 1310 extreme duty with non greasable u joints in front, and that if it wasn’t long enough after going 6.5 Adams was willing to work with me on getting a longer one less than full price. I guess I have to list every single piece since you’re not familiar with a lift that’s pretty popular.

Front Setup: drop brackets and all four adj arms, drag link flip, adj trackbar with raise bracket, HD tie rod, 12.5 links, outboard shock mounts, 24.5 inch brake lines, adj bump stops set to 3 inches currently, and an adams 1310 extreme duty non greasable driveshaft. Current castor 4.7 so roughly 1.3 degrees of pinion angle. Almost exactly what the manufacturer recommends. -.01 degrees steer ahead.

Rear setup: drop brackets, all four adj arms, adj trackbar with raise bracket, 12.75 links, adj bumpstops, 24.5 inch brake lines, sway bar relo brackets. Thrust angle -.08 degrees.

The only thing I don’t have in the rear is an aftermarket driveshaft, which is what I wanted to know about, and you start talking about issues in the front. I assumed you saw the part where I said I already have an aftermarket front driveshaft so I’m figuring you meant some other kind of issues. So I asked you what issues would I have then and you started being a douche. I’m more than happy to listen to people and do my own research from there, but it sounds like you didn’t actually read what I said and assumed I’m doing all this on a factory front shaft and who knows what else when that’s just not the case.

TheDirtman

Details matter, you still never answered the questions of what tire size and what front axle. I know metal cloak well. I have even wheeled with most of the guys there. Its good you got the solid u-joints in the front driveshaft. I never said anything about you running a factory front driveshaft, you are running an incorrect front shaft since it is a double Cardone and don't have a caster corrected axle. You are a dumb ass and I am done with you. Enjoy the fucked up ride you are building.

donjuan79

I mean you can say it’s fucked up all you want but it rides like a Cadillac, stays in lane at highway speeds, zero bumpsteer, zero driveline bind, and zero death wobble. But please Mr. I know everything, please tell me more. The way you make it sound it shouldn’t even be drivable right now 😂 It’s just like I said, you sit here talking about issues but can’t give one single example of what issues there would actually be. Because the only real issue is YOUR issue with lifts over 2.5 inches. Guys like you are the reason the OP and all the other commenters haven’t been active in 7 years 🤷🏻‍♂️

resharp001

I'm surprised you guys made it this long.....