4 inch suspension 2 inch coil lift
#11
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
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Waaahhhhh
Have you figured out yet that that is an incorrect statement? Probably not...
Let us know how stacking 2" coils on top of 4" coils goes for you.
If you choose to add spacers on top of 4" coils, then look at any of the 6" lifts on the market to see all of the various components they come with. It will not be just driveshafts you are adding.
Have you read any of the hundreds of other suspension threads with replies telling people to not only open, but to read, the threads stuck right to the top of this modified area? I'd be willing to bet that you'll find some really good information in them.
(you don't have to change your drive shafts for a 4 inch lift)
I said I want to get a 4 inch suspension lift and I'd like to add a 2 inch coil lift to that to total 6 inches of complete lift. My question is adding that 2 inches of coil will that push me to have to get longer drive shafts?
If you choose to add spacers on top of 4" coils, then look at any of the 6" lifts on the market to see all of the various components they come with. It will not be just driveshafts you are adding.
Have you read any of the hundreds of other suspension threads with replies telling people to not only open, but to read, the threads stuck right to the top of this modified area? I'd be willing to bet that you'll find some really good information in them.
#14
Heres my 2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor lift and the DIY stock fender chop up mod on 35s. As you can see i can still fit 37s. 4inch lift and 37s will look nice but going up to 6inch will be too much IMO. Also if you do plan on wheeling your Jeep you may want to do a little more researching on things you might want to do in order to run 37s on the trail. Some guys get lucky and don't beef up their axles to run 37s and some are un lucky and run into a lot of problems or break stuff.
What is your overall budget that you are looking at roughly? This will give us an idea of how realistic it will be to achieving what you think you will get out of that budget.
My Jeep where it stands im already looking at an easily 5k in parts.
x2
What is your overall budget that you are looking at roughly? This will give us an idea of how realistic it will be to achieving what you think you will get out of that budget.
My Jeep where it stands im already looking at an easily 5k in parts.
x2
#15
Heres my 2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor lift and the DIY stock fender chop up mod on 35s. As you can see i can still fit 37s. 4inch lift and 37s will look nice but going up to 6inch will be too much IMO. Also if you do plan on wheeling your Jeep you may want to do a little more researching on things you might want to do in order to run 37s on the trail. Some guys get lucky and don't beef up their axles to run 37s and some are un lucky and run into a lot of problems or break stuff. What is your overall budget that you are looking at roughly? This will give us an idea of how realistic it will be to achieving what you think you will get out of that budget. My Jeep where it stands im already looking at an easily 5k in parts. x2
That is a very nice set up, and the guy above didn't understand me I was looking for a 4 inch lift like coils and shocks and all then adding coil spacers to my coils. I'm not stupid u can't add coils to coils lol but yeah I'm looking to put roughly 5 grand total that for a everything for my jeep that I want but in suspension probably looking to put 1,500 is the most I'd like to spend. My one friend said I'd only have to change my front drive shaft with a 4 inch lift that my rear would be ok!?!? But i just don't know everyone's telling me different stuff lol.
#16
JK Super Freak
You have a JKU right? Probably don't need a rear shaft but a front one will be something you probably need. All depends on what your lift comes with and what you can adjust.
The Zone lift is a basic coil and shock lift. At 4", without any other adjustable components, you won't be able to stay on a stright line. Skip it unless you plan on adding adjustbale control arms or drop brackets to adjust caster (front) and pinion angles (for the rear). Not sure what RE express lift you are looking at but lots of complaints with those kits. That company went belly up a few years ago and was eventually "bought" by 4 wheel parts. 4 Wheel Parts (or whaever their parent company is) owns a lot of name brand stuff like smittybilt, RE, etc..
I would be very careful at running 6" of lift even if you were doing coils. But adding 2" pucks on coils to get to 6" is just a bad combination. Especially if you don't have any way of adjusting stuff. If you want to run 35's or 37's, 2.5" to 3.5" is all you need. If you are looking for the "big huge Jeep look", simply run a 3.5" lift with 35's and go with flat fenders. You will have tons of wheel well space....
As far as lift kit brands, there are enough threads on here discussing Rock Krawler, Teraflex, Metalcloak.... stick with those and make sure they are a little more than basic lifts when going 2.5"+. And plan for a front driveshaft.
The Zone lift is a basic coil and shock lift. At 4", without any other adjustable components, you won't be able to stay on a stright line. Skip it unless you plan on adding adjustbale control arms or drop brackets to adjust caster (front) and pinion angles (for the rear). Not sure what RE express lift you are looking at but lots of complaints with those kits. That company went belly up a few years ago and was eventually "bought" by 4 wheel parts. 4 Wheel Parts (or whaever their parent company is) owns a lot of name brand stuff like smittybilt, RE, etc..
I would be very careful at running 6" of lift even if you were doing coils. But adding 2" pucks on coils to get to 6" is just a bad combination. Especially if you don't have any way of adjusting stuff. If you want to run 35's or 37's, 2.5" to 3.5" is all you need. If you are looking for the "big huge Jeep look", simply run a 3.5" lift with 35's and go with flat fenders. You will have tons of wheel well space....
As far as lift kit brands, there are enough threads on here discussing Rock Krawler, Teraflex, Metalcloak.... stick with those and make sure they are a little more than basic lifts when going 2.5"+. And plan for a front driveshaft.
#17
You have a JKU right? Probably don't need a rear shaft but a front one will be something you probably need. All depends on what your lift comes with and what you can adjust. The Zone lift is a basic coil and shock lift. At 4", without any other adjustable components, you won't be able to stay on a stright line. Skip it unless you plan on adding adjustbale control arms or drop brackets to adjust caster (front) and pinion angles (for the rear). Not sure what RE express lift you are looking at but lots of complaints with those kits. That company went belly up a few years ago and was eventually "bought" by 4 wheel parts. 4 Wheel Parts (or whaever their parent company is) owns a lot of name brand stuff like smittybilt, RE, etc.. I would be very careful at running 6" of lift even if you were doing coils. But adding 2" pucks on coils to get to 6" is just a bad combination. Especially if you don't have any way of adjusting stuff. If you want to run 35's or 37's, 2.5" to 3.5" is all you need. If you are looking for the "big huge Jeep look", simply run a 3.5" lift with 35's and go with flat fenders. You will have tons of wheel well space.... As far as lift kit brands, there are enough threads on here discussing Rock Krawler, Teraflex, Metalcloak.... stick with those and make sure they are a little more than basic lifts when going 2.5"+. And plan for a front driveshaft.
Last edited by lindsayymarie12; 07-21-2014 at 05:38 AM.
#18
JK Super Freak
To help you realize how big it might be here is my jeep with 3.5 inch coil lift on 35s next to a stock sized one. If looks are what you are after I think you'll be happy with 2.5-3.5 and big meats. Just be smart with your choices, bigger isn't always better.
#19
Your jeep is sick! I'm just gunna go 3.5, did you change your front drive shaft? And what all do you have done to it cuz people are talking about lockers and stuff and I'm just confused like I wanna have fun and go on some fun hard trails but it's a daily driver so idk what to do and what to stay away from but I don't wanna always be on beginner trails lol. Do you get a lot of flex with that 3.5 and cut flairs? I can't wait to chop mine I'm cutting my front bumper to a stubby until I get my money saved up.... Lol just empty every pocket right lol
#20
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
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It sounds like you have talked yourself out of it, (which is good!) but just for a visual, post 10 shows a 6" lift with 37's and 'stock' flares. Imagine another couple inches of wheel well for chopped or flat flares.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...5s-37s-286512/
There are no definite rules for if/when a driveshaft will need to be replaced, too many variables. (total lift, shock length, disconnecting, flexing offroad vs speedbumps at the mall, etc, etc). As part of regular maintenance, you will need to crawl underneath and actually check the boots for cracking/splitting. The middle boot isn't a real big deal, (unless it is smacking into the corner of the tranny pan and peeling the lip) but if a tcase joint boot is split, there will be a very noticeable ring of grease slung on the undercarriage above the tcase joint. Once you see that, you will have some decisions to make.
Depending on tire size, you will want to research re-gearing.
Depending on actual use and needs, you will want to research front housing mods. (gussets/truss/inner sleeves/outer sleeves/ca skids)
For lockers, this is a decent over-view. (the d44 eaton e-locker has been upgraded to a 4-pin design since this was written)
Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Dynatrac Presents - Lockers 101
In addition to those, you should also take a serious look at the detroit truetrac. You can get a pair of them for less than a single selectable locker, and they will likely be all the traction you will ever need.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...5s-37s-286512/
There are no definite rules for if/when a driveshaft will need to be replaced, too many variables. (total lift, shock length, disconnecting, flexing offroad vs speedbumps at the mall, etc, etc). As part of regular maintenance, you will need to crawl underneath and actually check the boots for cracking/splitting. The middle boot isn't a real big deal, (unless it is smacking into the corner of the tranny pan and peeling the lip) but if a tcase joint boot is split, there will be a very noticeable ring of grease slung on the undercarriage above the tcase joint. Once you see that, you will have some decisions to make.
Depending on tire size, you will want to research re-gearing.
Depending on actual use and needs, you will want to research front housing mods. (gussets/truss/inner sleeves/outer sleeves/ca skids)
For lockers, this is a decent over-view. (the d44 eaton e-locker has been upgraded to a 4-pin design since this was written)
Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Dynatrac Presents - Lockers 101
In addition to those, you should also take a serious look at the detroit truetrac. You can get a pair of them for less than a single selectable locker, and they will likely be all the traction you will ever need.
Last edited by k0260; 07-27-2014 at 07:07 PM. Reason: disabled project JK link