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4 inch lifts and driveline mods?

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Old 02-07-2007 | 08:31 AM
  #11  
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RE's website states 3.5" will ship week of Feb 19, so no one sells it yet.
Old 02-07-2007 | 08:37 AM
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Found it and it high but nice. http://www.redrock4x4.com/shop/products/2214.html
Old 02-07-2007 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SFLJeeper
MarylandRanger are those 37s on the stock Rubi wheels? What brand and size are the tires? THanks.
http://www.coopertire.com/html/produ...t&LanguageId=1

I am running Cooper Discoverer ATT 37X12.50-17's on the factory wheels with Spidertrax 1.5 wheel spacers.
Old 02-07-2007 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CLACKEY573
I too am torn between 3" and 35's or 4" and 37's. 3" with a 1" body lift or a 4" lift. I would love to hear thoughts from who has done it.
I have a 4" lift with a 1" body lift and im running 37x13.50-18's on a 2DR. I still had to do minor trimming. I dont regret anything ive done and I know 3" and 35's just wouldnt be enough. Also I like to emphasize that I have a 2DR. There are alot less problems or dialing in suspension wise with the 4DR. Reguardless if you do go with the 4" most companies recommend you upgrade the drive shafts.
Old 02-07-2007 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by woolf
Vibrations in the driveline are not going to be a problem. However, there have been claims made that the cv joint boots will wear out faster. Your big problem is going to be adjusting caster. Personally I am going to go with the Superlift 4" if I have to buy it myself, because they have cam bolts to adjust the caster. Other options would be to use upper adjustable control arms to adjust caster, or all new adjustable control arms to completely reposition the axles (best alternative).
When giving advise make sure you specify whether you have a 2DR or a 4DR. There is a big difference especially when it comes to after market parts and lifts. I have a 2DR Rubicon. For most 2DRs with a 4" lift or more you will have driveline vibration. So make sure you buy a kit that comes with rear upper adjustable control arms. You NEED them to dial in the rear pinion angle to get rid of any vibration. Also the CV joint boots will wear out due to the increased angle thats why most companies recommend driveline modification (AKA-replace stock drive shafts with heavy duty ones like JE Reel 1350's) I know because Ive been through this personally.
Old 02-07-2007 | 03:26 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by woolf
I gotta be honest. You might save a little money going with 3 + 1, but it is not going to be near significant enough after you spend all the extra time installing that body lift. They are such a pain in the butt to install and make everything work properly. If you are torn, get the 4" otherwise you will wish you always had.
Thank you.
Old 02-07-2007 | 03:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by stumpman79
I have a 4" lift with a 1" body lift and im running 37x13.50-18's on a 2DR. I still had to do minor trimming. I dont regret anything ive done and I know 3" and 35's just wouldnt be enough. Also I like to emphasize that I have a 2DR. There are alot less problems or dialing in suspension wise with the 4DR. Reguardless if you do go with the 4" most companies recommend you upgrade the drive shafts.
Thanks for the info. I'd love to hear more from everyone who is running 4" lifts.
Old 02-07-2007 | 03:43 PM
  #18  
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I'm running the 4" SuperLift on a 4 door and liking it. No vibes that I've noticed.
Old 02-07-2007 | 03:48 PM
  #19  
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I have a 2dr Rubi with a 4" Skyjacker lift. I purchased replacement 1310 OE drive shafts from J.E. Reel. The front went in with no vibrations at all. The rear shaft was much different. I tried two different drive shafts they sent me, but could not get rid of the bad vibrations.
I was told the only way I could correct the vibration was to get adjustable control arms and to point the diff upward toward the transfer case. I thought this may affect the warrenty and returned the rear drive shaft.
Old 02-07-2007 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by coyotesfan
I have a 2dr Rubi with a 4" Skyjacker lift. I purchased replacement 1310 OE drive shafts from J.E. Reel. The front went in with no vibrations at all. The rear shaft was much different. I tried two different drive shafts they sent me, but could not get rid of the bad vibrations.
I was told the only way I could correct the vibration was to get adjustable control arms and to point the diff upward toward the transfer case. I thought this may affect the warrenty and returned the rear drive shaft.
Building my JK has been a nightmare! I ordered the JE Reel 1350 heavy duty's and one was lost in the mail by DHL and the other was built wrong. With all the trouble shooting Ive had to do with rear the only thing that fixed the rear vibration was rear upper adjustable control arms.I ordered them through Teraflex. You are correct its not the drive shafts. That info was given to me by David at Northridge4x4... that guy knows his shit. Any questions call him at 360-340-0282. By the way did you Skyjacker lift come with a drop pitman arm. Mine did not. The wholesaler I bought it from told me it was recommended not required. Which is bull because I called Skyjacker and they told me not to drive the jeep without it. Its been on a lift for 2 weeks waiting for the drop pitman arm to come in.



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