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37s on a Rubicon with limited lift?

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Old 12-09-2012, 08:33 AM
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Default 37s on a Rubicon with limited lift?

The more I look through the forums the more conflicted/confused I get.

I currently have a stock unlimited 2012 Rubicon with a few minor mods: winch, skid plates. It is mostly a daily driver (although only short distances) but I do enjoy and plan on doing more rock crawling (did a Jeep jamboree in the Blackhills), maybe a couple times a year. I also do some wheeling locally in sand, mud, snow, large downed trees, etc. If I start building it up I thought of doing a low center of gravity build with a 2.5" lift and metalcloak flares on 37s. I will also be putting on front and rear bumper, likely PSC brawler lite in the front and the knuckles offroad rear bumper and tire carrier. I will likely add more skid/body protection since I'm going with the low center of gravity. I want to be able to wheel some moderate rocks but also don't want to trailer my vehicle, so avoiding a break down is important. So how important is it to regear with this setup? Do I need to do anything with the driveshaft if I keep the lift small? It sounds like I should strengthen the front axle. I also have seen comments about the Rubi lockers not holding up to 37s, but no explanation why. I realize I'm putting some expensive gear on my Jeep but I'm not sure I want it to become a trailer Jeep. I may just get a second Jeep to do that!

Any suggestions on the 2.5" lift would also be appreciated, I'm ok with having to spend a little more for a better lift.
Old 12-09-2012, 09:22 AM
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rockkrawler or full traction both make top of the line, quality lifts. Right now im running 37's ('07 JKUR) on a 2.5" TF BB and a 1" BL w/ trimmed fenders. Now w/ one of the lifts mentioned above you should be able to run 37s w/ flat flares, trimming the pinch seam and rails, and not need the BL. As well as wheel spacers or a different wheel w/ the proper offset (4.5 or less). If $ were more available thats what i would do. I am running the stock 4.10 gears and besides a tune for the oversized tires the engine (i have the 3.8, less power than you) is stock too and its just fine for me. I'm no speed demon but thats not why i bought the rig. From what ive read about the '12s you will want to do driveshafts and and exhaust spacer or delete the loop but i cannot not speak from experience.

Long/short. I DD my rig w/ stock gears, 37s LCG 2.5" susi BB lift and 1" BL, and trimming flares, pinch, ect. I hit trails, rock, and a little mud and she does great.
Old 12-09-2012, 09:32 AM
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I think 37s with 4.10s and a Pentastar would be liveable. At least long enough for you to decide if its worth it after trying it out.

With the addition of bumpers and a winch Rock Krawler springs would be better than Terraflex because they will give a bit more lift. Either that or get TF 3" springs.

Evidence:
RK 2.5 springs gave me 3.5" of lift.
TF 2.5 springs gave my friend 2.5" of lift.

Both ride nice. The TF feel softer but it may be that he still has factory shocks and I have Bilstein. These are the only two lifts that I have ridden in extensively and witnessed off road on many trips.

Last edited by EzK; 12-09-2012 at 09:35 AM.
Old 12-09-2012, 12:20 PM
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Thanks, I appreciate the thoughts. I'd been looking at the Teraflex lift but will certainly look into the Rock Crawler lift as well. Anyone with a 2012 with either of these lifts? I understand the spacer is needed for the exhaust, but does the driveline need to be replaced with a small lift and if so how much is that likely to cost?
Old 12-09-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by drenton
Thanks, I appreciate the thoughts. I'd been looking at the Teraflex lift but will certainly look into the Rock Crawler lift as well. Anyone with a 2012 with either of these lifts? I understand the spacer is needed for the exhaust, but does the driveline need to be replaced with a small lift and if so how much is that likely to cost?
Front driveline costs about $450-$500 depending on who makes it. Coast and JE Reel are good ones, but you shouldn't need a new driveshaft with a 2.5" lift at least not initially.

On a 2012, the front driveshaft is already at a pretty steep angle and any lift will increase those angles putting strain on the cv boot and joints. The boot will tear and the joints will give out prematurely.

You may not need a spacer with a 2.5" lift if you replace your front driveshaft because the droop probably won't be enough to cause the driveshaft to hit the crossover exhaust pipe. If you keep the stock driveshaft, you will need the exhaust spacer or a replacement crossover pipe like the one that AFE Power makes.



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