and idk man a re-gear is alot of money and...it kinda seems like everybody just plays follow the leader on it lol....some need super low gearing and others dont...if you wheel it hard then i say low gear it for sure but if you dont and its a daily driver then wouldnt worry so much bout it....and ya have the d30...and dude i cant remeber where i saw the pic of the pinion angle for 5.13 on here with the d30 but it is super tiny...idk brotha, build it for what you need

 

You are going to have the axle open anyway. I just had gears, sleeves, gussets, lower control arm skids , and spartan locker installed with a new carrier up front for just under $1700 including parts!
And it wasn't long ago I was in your shoes, it can be done

 

Thank you all for your reply's to answer some questions
I for one am a college kid that is broke but is still interested in 37's. I wanted to leave the topic of daily driver/ off road toy open so i can see how the set up for both would look.
being that this is currently my only vehicle i think i might just hold off on this set up for now.

but this information is very useful and i would like to proceed in answering questions so other users can be well informed about the process that is setting up for 37's

thank you all for your time and insight

Connor

 

I ran 37's with my open D30 with 3.73 gears. I do have the manual so it was better. I only had the EVO "C" gussets and the ProSteer ball joints and never had a problem. I ran this for over a year. I am also running the Nitto Mud Grappler which like the Toyo, is not a light tire. I think just the tire (37x13.5x17) is 92 lbs. I only went to the PR44 because I did not want to throw money at the stock axle weither it be a 44 or 30. They have the same housing, just different center section and spline count on the axles. When I got the new axle, I re-geared to 5.13. I like the performance I got. PERSONALLY, I would just get the "C" gussets and save the $160 from the axle sleves and use it toward something else or do what you want. Its your JK. Just have fun! I am still running the factory rear drive shaft. I am going to run it till it breaks. I up-graded the front shaft because the factory one was wearing out due to the angle. It lasted me a year with a 4" lift and the 37's.

 

It seems that this thread has attracted quite a few broke college kids, I myself am in this boat. That said, I always saved up the money to do things "right" before I bit off more than I could chew. 37's with 3.21 gears will be absolutely terrible in town. My bet is that you will never see double digit gas millage except for perhaps the very low teens on the highway. It was said that you could run 37's with trimmed fenders and 1.25" lift. This is true, it is also true that with just trimmed fenders you can run 35's stock. I don't know what spacers you would need to accommodate the turning under those conditions, but I imagine it would be substantial and just provide more leverage for those huge tires to damage the axle. Gusset it all you want, I have seen those C's turn to Q's under light off road use even with gussets. You also need to realize that you don't have to be off roading either, hit a speed bump going to fast, or nail one of our Texas sized pot holes and your axle could be fucked right then and there. Broken housing = thousands of dollars to replace. Not a place any broke college kid wants to be in. Moral of the story is to spend the money slowly, perhaps get the correct lift kit first with 35's. Save the money then do the steering, then the gears, and then get the 37's and whatever else. Hell, by that time you will probably be out of college and be looking to upgrade the axle's anyway.



I would be curious as to who recommended the coil-over set up to you. Coil-overs are not necessary under really any circumstances. They are highly preferable for dessert racing, or traveling over rocks at high speeds because they can be completely rebuilt unlike regular shocks that can't. For reference, think king of the hammers sort of off roading. That is their primary purpose. the rear evo-lever system is an exception to that, but again, not really necessary. You can get the same amount of flex from a good spring and shock combination as you can a coil-over set up. As for the 4" long arm kit, great choice. As I said in my previous response, you will need to fix your steering. Way-of-life did a good write up on this subject so I will defer the rest to that.

Great conversation,

Tyler

 

X2 on saving money and doing it right the first time

 

I would suggest waiting as well. But sometimes we get hasty and want to ride around with big tires and no lift for awhile.

 

Delux2769, There are lots of Jeep clubs in Texas, Jeep Nation among them. I mention this because in these clubs there are a whole lot of people that have done re-gears or rebuild back ends for a living. I know a 800$ is a big thing to bite off, but if you do it yourself with a friend that knows how, it will pay itself off fast. 8-9mpg in town adds up quick given the current cost of fuel. In reality, you would only have to save 10 tanks give or take before the gears start "paying you back" for the install.

It's been said on here 100's of times, but re-gearing is absolutely the most practical mod anyone could do once you have gone to bigger tires.

 

When you start bringing MPG into the picture it just makes it even more smart to wait to do the gears then tires. But for those of us who just want to be able to throw on 37"s every once in a while, what I listed will get you rolling down the road.

Gears would be smart if the 37"s are going to be your DD tires.

My last Jeep during HS was a '78 Jeep Cherokee with a 401 that got about 8mpg on a good day. No doors, or windows. Filled up gas from a tube in the middle of the rear cargo area.