Originally Posted by chuck45

I'd go with 37's. The biggest mistake I made on my 4 dr was going with 35's. A 4 dr NEEDS 37's. I'm even considering 38's. If I felt like dropping the bucks on 60's now I'd go with 39's or 40's. Maybe post Obama if he doesn't succeed in killing the economy.

Originally Posted by style_front

What 38's were you looking at?

Originally Posted by planman

To run 37s, locked, offroad, I think you should beef things up. I did front & rear chromoly axle shafts. Also on the front axle, I did sleeves, axle C gussets, lower control arm skids (with extra welds on the stock bracket), and gusseted/boxed in the axle side front trackbar bracket.

My driveshafts have held up fine with only the 2.5" lift and 37s.

Here's a budget for 37s (just an example):

• 5 Goodyear MTRs (non-Kevlar) 37x12.50x15, $256 each, $1280 with free shipping, (PM or email the Discount Tire Direct rep on this forum for a greater discount)
• 5 Cragar Soft 8s, 15x8, 4" backspacing, CRR-3975850, and center caps CRR-29270-1, $280 shipped from summitracing.com
• Trim stock flares flat, $20 for door edge material
• Teraflex 2.5" coil lift with shocks, $680 from Northridge4x4
  
• M.O.R.E. 1" body lift, $140 from Northridge4x4
• Regear to 5.13s, $1200 (parts ordered from Northridge4x4, labor local)
  
• Rock Hard EVAP skid, $100 from Northridge4x4
• Rock Hard Engine skid, $380 from Northridge4x4
• Off Road Evolution axle sleeves, C2 gussets, & lower control arm skids, $250 from Northridge 4x4.
  
• Rock Krawler front trackbar gusset kit, $25 --Northridge4x4 can probably get it for you.
• Cut 2" off rear of stock Rubi Rocker guard, $0
• Fold over or cut rear pinch seam, $5 for a can of black spray paint
• Stubby your stock front bumper, $0
  
• Woods steering stablizer relocation bracket, $39 from jeepswag.com
• Rear bumper/tire carrier capable of a 37" tire, about $1000
• AEV ProCal programmer, $130 from Northridge4x4
  
• Front and rear chromoly axle shafts, $1100 from Northridge4x4
• CB, antenna, mount, cable, etc., $130

Offsets:

• Sell stock tires and wheels, $600

Total budget to run 37s on a Rubi (sample build): about $6k if you do your own installs and have a buddy who can do the welds on the front axle sleeves, gussets, etc.

You could do it over time in this order:

1. Lift, body lift, trim flares, trim rocker guard, fold over pinch seam, stubby front bumper, CB.
2. Tires & wheels (run without a spare until the next step)
3. Rear bumper/tire carrier
4. Sell stock wheels and tires
5. Gears and AEV ProCal
6. Front axle reinforcements (sleeves, gussets, etc.) and stabilizer relocation bracket
7. Engine skid & EVAP skids
8. Axle shafts

Then, move on to better front bumper, winch, etc., etc.

Originally Posted by planman

Thanks.

If you are going to run 35s and wheel it hard, I'd only drop:

• M.O.R.E. 1" body lift, $140 from Northridge4x4
• Off Road Evolution axle sleeves--I would still do the gussets and lower control arm skids.
• Cut 2" off rear of stock Rubi Rocker guard, $0
• Fold over or cut rear pinch seam, $5 for a can of black spray paint
• Front and rear chromoly axle shafts, $1100 from Northridge4x4

However, you could also do a less expensive rear bumper tire carrier. You could do the OrFab rear tire carrier without an aftermarket rear bumper.

If you have a Dana 30, you'd want front chromoly shafts, but would be fine with the stock axle shafts with a front Dana 44. If you don't have lockers, you might want to add lockers at the same time as the regear.

You could do the 1" body lift and keep the stock flares uncut.

If you don't wheel it in the rocks you could skip the engine skid and the EVAP skid.

If you don't wheel it hard, you could skip the front axle C gussets, but I'd still do the Rock Krawler trackbar bracket gussets.