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37s on mostly stock components

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Old 05-29-2015, 11:45 AM
  #31  
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Just to add a wrench into the mix, one of the 2014 2drs in our jeep club is running pro-comp 40s on his stock axle....

Granted it is truss and gusseted but its still a dirty 30. If you are able, you will get a lot better quality results from shops if you take just your axle to them. the 2dr on 40s took his jeep in for trussing and the shop missed welds and splattered and it was poor quality. He was completely refunded and had it all replaced. If you take the time to grind off the paint, dirt and whatever may be on your axle for where they need to weld, you will get a much better, and potentially stronger truss weld job. It just makes it a hell of a lot easier for the guy that has to weld it, plus it can be cheaper with the reduced labor.

I currently run 37s on a 2" budget spacer lift with spidertrax spacers, and rugged ridge rims to get decent back spacing, and there is only a bit of rub at full lock. Haven't had any issues at all with the tires. I do break other unrelated parts though

And as others have stated, sleeves aren't much help. It's kinda like putting a larger straw over a smaller straw, the leverage is still there on the tires to be able to break parts. The truss and gussets change how the stress is distributed through the axle
Old 05-29-2015, 12:32 PM
  #32  
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40's on semi stock is impressive

Does he wheel light or hard? He must have had to do a bunch of cutting and such to avoid rub

I'd live to see a pic of a 2 door with 40's

Matthew


Originally Posted by andrewmsm
Just to add a wrench into the mix, one of the 2014 2drs in our jeep club is running pro-comp 40s on his stock axle....

Granted it is truss and gusseted but its still a dirty 30. If you are able, you will get a lot better quality results from shops if you take just your axle to them. the 2dr on 40s took his jeep in for trussing and the shop missed welds and splattered and it was poor quality. He was completely refunded and had it all replaced. If you take the time to grind off the paint, dirt and whatever may be on your axle for where they need to weld, you will get a much better, and potentially stronger truss weld job. It just makes it a hell of a lot easier for the guy that has to weld it, plus it can be cheaper with the reduced labor.

I currently run 37s on a 2" budget spacer lift with spidertrax spacers, and rugged ridge rims to get decent back spacing, and there is only a bit of rub at full lock. Haven't had any issues at all with the tires. I do break other unrelated parts though

And as others have stated, sleeves aren't much help. It's kinda like putting a larger straw over a smaller straw, the leverage is still there on the tires to be able to break parts. The truss and gussets change how the stress is distributed through the axle
Old 05-30-2015, 05:07 AM
  #33  
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40's on a dana 30 or even a factory 44 is a ticking timebomb, it can be done but will not be reliable and will fail at some point unless all you do just park it in the driveway and wax it.
I see threads all the time people running 40's on a dana 30, they will fit but they all have moved on to bigger axles because of problems.
Old 05-30-2015, 06:19 AM
  #34  
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I worry about 40s on my d60 sometimes... Ive seen lots of d60a break also..
Old 05-30-2015, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
40's on a dana 30 or even a factory 44 is a ticking timebomb, it can be done but will not be reliable and will fail at some point unless all you do just park it in the driveway and wax it.
I see threads all the time people running 40's on a dana 30, they will fit but they all have moved on to bigger axles because of problems.
He built it for show and shines mostly and drives it as a DD. It obviously rubs a bit at full lock but so do 37s on a stock axle even with spacers. Most Ontario trails where we are mud and dirt and rock, it's nothing like what you'd get in the SW. Most of our parts I've seen damaged are from mud and grit getting in where it shouldn't and grinding away. We usually don't notice Anything break until we start to drive out onto paved roads and get upto speed. It certainly wouldn't hold up to regular weekly wheeling though, especially heavy rock flexing hahha.
I'll try and upload a picture of it later
Old 05-30-2015, 11:14 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
I worry about 40s on my d60 sometimes... Ive seen lots of d60a break also..
I guess some of it goes back to how you drive it. Like too much skinny pedal too often will certainly have much more significant prolonged effects than someone who just crawls at slow speed along the whole trail. There's just so many variables to it. Also here's a 2dr on 40s with a dirty 30 haha

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Old 05-30-2015, 12:32 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by andrewmsm

I guess some of it goes back to how you drive it. Like too much skinny pedal too often will certainly have much more significant prolonged effects than someone who just crawls at slow speed along the whole trail. There's just so many variables to it. Also here's a 2dr on 40s with a dirty 30 haha

<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=612906"/>
O well now that you explained that i feel anyone can run 40s on a d30 if they are careful..
Old 05-30-2015, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Maertz

O well now that you explained that i feel anyone can run 40s on a d30 if they are careful..
It would be kind of interesting to see the same setup, with 40s on stock 30, running on 5 different types of trails, and see what breaks first and where. Be able to see what types of terrains break what parts first or if its all the same.
Old 05-30-2015, 03:12 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by andrewmsm

It would be kind of interesting to see the same setup, with 40s on stock 30, running on 5 different types of trails, and see what breaks first and where. Be able to see what types of terrains break what parts first or if its all the same.
I think if stared at a d30 with 40s long enough i could break it....



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