37's certainly have the potential to cause more problems than 35's. Just like taller lifts have the potential to cause more issues than shorter lifts. Not saying they definitely will, it's just more likely. It all goes back to knowing what the possible problem areas are, and either hoping nothing happens, or beefing them up before hand, or fixing them along the way.

Personally, I am all for taller lifts and bigger tires, even though with my usage, I don't 'need' either. That's what I like, so that's what I went for.

Oh, and I'm running 37" Falkens. No issues at all through Colorado winters. I imagine they will work better than the stock rubi mt's for you...

 

I went end to lengths to try and balance the clearance benefit for navigating trails while keeping the lift height as low as possible

ive been on some trails that had some really challenging obstacles, there were awesome guides, but that sensation that your going over on your side as the guide is having you advance further into the incline angle can be uncomfortable

i guess if I was building for mud it would be different, I'm building for the ability to be able to do more and more trails with higher difficulty ratings, a 6-7 trail can have a real pucker factor!

matthew

 

You're in Louisville, CO (I'm up in Longmont). Take the drive up to NorthRidge4x4 on Hwy 66 and I-25 in Longmont/Mead, take a look at their Jeeps, and have a talk with Tim or Oliver. Like everyone else said, search for "d30 37s" and read up.

Your profile says you have an X Unlimited. That means you have a Dana 30 front axle. I do too and run 35s. Ran them for 5 years with the mods listed below without major problems until about two months ago when I hit a tree root on the trail and busted the passenger-side axle tube. I had the Synergy C-Gussets, but not sleeves. The only option at the time were weld-in sleeves and the installation costs were pretty high. Take a look at the Nitro pound-in sleeves that are available now.

My take is 37s on the Dana 30 is a recipe for disaster if you plan to wheel it at all (you're in Colorado!). If you want to try it, install gussets and sleeves and start saving for when you bust something. Also note that the D30 in the non-Rubicon and the D44 in the Rubicon use the same axle tubes so you really need to sleeve them both.

 

Not to rain on your parade or pour salt in the wound or anything, but sleeves may not prevent the shattered housings. Several people in this thread alone indicate that all the sleeves did was move the break to the end of the sleeve at the diff, instead of the normal location at the passenger side ca's...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ousing-137074/

After all the beefing, a stock housing is still a stock housing...

 

Solid advice except for the last line, "go straight to tons."

1/2 ton?

3/4 ton?

1 ton?

2 1/2 ton?

5 ton?

There are lots of "tons" out there and it would be safe to say that if the OP is asking the question he is, he's not ready for "tons", of any size!

 

^^^^ Ehh one could be this pick on many things said online... Hell even saying d60s leaves a ton of variables. His point (which he made first) was do more research....

 

I just assumed we are all going to 5 ton rockwells and rear steer?

 

Followed a couple of Rockwell build threads a while back. My god those things are massive. I think I'll get a pair so I feel safe running my 33's...

 

Rubicon wheels at 17 inches FYI, but I can lend some advice here. I've had 37" trail grapplers on my jeep for 2 years. Stock axles, stock 3.73 gears. You need to re-gear, I didn't because I keep making excuses, I have the parts but don't want to spring for the install, but it's absolutely miserable. As for the axles, I haven't had any issues but I don't offroad much

 

No rain or salt taken. Just wanted to explain my experience and offer an opinion.