37's on 3" lift
09-04-2014, 06:51 AM
#21
JK Jedi
35's can be done pretty easy with minimal lift or no lift and some flat fenders. The less you have to do to the suspension the better off you will be and the JK has ability to fit much larger tires then the TJ did without the big lifts.
09-04-2014, 07:13 AM
#23
JK Jedi
If you have hills in your area 5.13 would be my choice. If near sea level and flat with lots of highway traveling then 4.88 may give you a little better mpg.
09-04-2014, 11:45 AM
#24
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I would wait to drive it before you re-gear personally. I have the 3.8 auto tranny and am running 35s on the stock 4.10s getting 14-16mpg city/highway - i do live in CO so I am driving mtns frequently. I am on the fence about going to 37s which is why I haven't regeared, but I have been running this setup for a year and honestly it isn't bad. I am slower and it is not ideal but with my 35s regearing is not at the top of my list
09-04-2014, 12:04 PM
#25
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I have 35 and aev 2.5 + geo brackets and this is a very good DD ride. Ride is better than stock. I would not change anything on it.
Some times I dream of 37's but I'm not ready to make the sacrifice and the much more investment required.
Some times I dream of 37's but I'm not ready to make the sacrifice and the much more investment required.
09-04-2014, 12:45 PM
#26
JK Freak
Like the previous poster, I'm running the AEV 2.5" lift with the correction brackets. Got about 3" of lift out of it even with heavy front and rear bumpers. I am running 37s and it IS my daily driver and weekend trail warrior. That said, I have way more than $5k invested in order to run this setup. Trimmed the fenders myself so that was no cost but it was essential. The bigger tires made an adjustable front track bar a necessity. Even with that and wheel spacers AND 4.5" of backspacing, I still rub my tires on the frame. This was not a problem when I previously had 35s. I have also regeared... I have a 2012 auto so I went with 4.88. Did the regear myself but it still wasn't cheap all said and done. Do I regret going from 35s to 37s? Not one damn bit. But be ready for a lot more cost associated with that option and breaking things/wearing things out faster.
Last edited by PsychoCupcake; 09-04-2014 at 03:35 PM.
09-04-2014, 01:08 PM
#27
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For non-rubicons, they are all d30 front with d44 rear. (with the exception of a few very early models, with build dates prior to Jan07, that came with a rear d35. And 'possibly' a few 07's that came with a front rubi44?)
For rubicons, they are all d44's front and back.
The front rubi d44 housings are basically the same as the d30. Same tube diameter, tube thickness, length, same C's/brakes/knuckles/hubs. The difference is inside. Front rubi44's have a factory e-locker, the bigger d44 gears, and 30spline inner axle shafts instead of the 27spline shafts on the d30. They both use the same 32spline outer shafts.
The rear rubi44 housing is basically the same as the non-rubi44, but the pumpkin is different to allow the use of the factory locker. The gears are the same as the non-rubi44, but the shafts are 32spline as opposed to the non-rubi 30spline, and the rubi shafts are different lengths than the non-rubi.
Rubi axles come with 4.10 gears, non-rubi's with 3.21 or 3.73. (some non-rubi's can be found with 4.10, and the newest year rubi's might be found with either 3.73 or 4.10).
The factory lockers can not be used in the standard housings, and there are only (3?) aftermarket lockers that can be used in the rubi housings if a locker fails.
The rubi also comes with a tcase with a better ratio. For most people, anyway? (4:1 instead of 2.72:1) And also has the push-button e-disco, if you are lazy.
If there isn't a big price difference, go for the rubi.
For rubicons, they are all d44's front and back.
The front rubi d44 housings are basically the same as the d30. Same tube diameter, tube thickness, length, same C's/brakes/knuckles/hubs. The difference is inside. Front rubi44's have a factory e-locker, the bigger d44 gears, and 30spline inner axle shafts instead of the 27spline shafts on the d30. They both use the same 32spline outer shafts.
The rear rubi44 housing is basically the same as the non-rubi44, but the pumpkin is different to allow the use of the factory locker. The gears are the same as the non-rubi44, but the shafts are 32spline as opposed to the non-rubi 30spline, and the rubi shafts are different lengths than the non-rubi.
Rubi axles come with 4.10 gears, non-rubi's with 3.21 or 3.73. (some non-rubi's can be found with 4.10, and the newest year rubi's might be found with either 3.73 or 4.10).
The factory lockers can not be used in the standard housings, and there are only (3?) aftermarket lockers that can be used in the rubi housings if a locker fails.
The rubi also comes with a tcase with a better ratio. For most people, anyway? (4:1 instead of 2.72:1) And also has the push-button e-disco, if you are lazy.
If there isn't a big price difference, go for the rubi.
09-05-2014, 01:00 AM
#28
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I'm running 35s on my JKUS an it's hard to even tell there's a difference in ride quality. I dream of 37s but I could spend money in better places. Personally if I didn't wheel my jeep I wouldn't bother modding it. My jk is brand new still and is used scratched and wheels hard.
09-05-2014, 04:35 AM
#29
JK Freak
For non-rubicons, they are all d30 front with d44 rear. (with the exception of a few very early models, with build dates prior to Jan07, that came with a rear d35. And 'possibly' a few 07's that came with a front rubi44?) For rubicons, they are all d44's front and back. The front rubi d44 housings are basically the same as the d30. Same tube diameter, tube thickness, length, same C's/brakes/knuckles/hubs. The difference is inside. Front rubi44's have a factory e-locker, the bigger d44 gears, and 30spline inner axle shafts instead of the 27spline shafts on the d30. They both use the same 32spline outer shafts. The rear rubi44 housing is basically the same as the non-rubi44, but the pumpkin is different to allow the use of the factory locker. The gears are the same as the non-rubi44, but the shafts are 32spline as opposed to the non-rubi 30spline, and the rubi shafts are different lengths than the non-rubi. Rubi axles come with 4.10 gears, non-rubi's with 3.21 or 3.73. (some non-rubi's can be found with 4.10, and the newest year rubi's might be found with either 3.73 or 4.10). The factory lockers can not be used in the standard housings, and there are only (3?) aftermarket lockers that can be used in the rubi housings if a locker fails. The rubi also comes with a tcase with a better ratio. For most people, anyway? (4:1 instead of 2.72:1) And also has the push-button e-disco, if you are lazy. If there isn't a big price difference, go for the rubi.
09-05-2014, 05:37 AM
#30
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