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37" tires, Should I get a coast 1310 or 1350 front Drive Shaft?

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Old 10-09-2012, 02:26 AM
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Default 37" tires, Should I get a coast 1310 or 1350 front Drive Shaft?

Of course front one is shot since the boot is gone with 3.5 lift. Running 37 BFG KM2's and don't want to go to big (I like the idea of the DS breaking and not an axle or gears or ??). I am leaning towards the 1310, but wanted some opinions before I spend the cash.

Where is the best place to order the DS once I decide which one to get?

Thanks for the input guys! I can't wait for Moab!
Old 10-09-2012, 11:50 AM
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I went with a Coast 1310. When I was trying to decide, I asked a garage that does JK hemi conversions. They recommeded the 1310 as the weak link because it is cheaper to fix than a ring/pinion or axle shaft if it breaks.

I bought mine from Northridge4x4.
Old 10-09-2012, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bo9roadking
I went with a Coast 1310. When I was trying to decide, I asked a garage that does JK hemi conversions. They recommeded the 1310 as the weak link because it is cheaper to fix than a ring/pinion or axle shaft if it breaks.

I bought mine from Northridge4x4.
My exact thinking! Thanks for the input!
Old 10-09-2012, 12:50 PM
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Do you go offroading a lot? If not the 1310 would work, otherwise I'd just fork over the extra cash for a 1350 just in case....
Old 10-09-2012, 01:23 PM
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I never get to wheel as much as I want. About once a month seems to be the norm except in the winter. Then it's no wheeling, or snow wheeling, which is the same to the drive line as no wheeling.

I am not opposed to paying for the 1350 at all, I like to do things once the right way and be done, but I am not so sure in this case bigger is better.

Going to Moab with my family in the spring with no other jeep's, and I gotta admit, a busted front DS 30 miles out doesn't scare me nearly as bad as a busted axle or R&P.

Anybody else have input? I know it sounds like I made my mind up, but hoping for someone to share any personal experience or advice.
Old 10-09-2012, 01:43 PM
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I went with 1310's because they are a common U-joint found at almost every parts store and they seem to handle 38's just fine!!!
Old 10-09-2012, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BubbaJK2012
I went with 1310's because they are a common U-joint found at almost every parts store and they seem to handle 38's just fine!!!
I didn't think of u-joint availability! How long have you had your 38's? Broke any u-joints yet?
Old 10-09-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 19Delta

I didn't think of u-joint availability! How long have you had your 38's? Broke any u-joints yet?
Had them on for over a year now with about 750 miles of offroading and 5500 miles on highway with no issues. I had to replace a output seal because I was running my stock shafts at too much of a angle before I got adjustable control arms and coast shafts front and rear. Other than that I had to lengthen my rear shaft after I stretched rear end out a few inches and coast was nice enough to relengthen my rear shaft for free. All I had to do is pay for shipping there they relengthen it and shipped it back on their dime. Great company!!!
Old 10-09-2012, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BubbaJK2012
I had to lengthen my rear shaft after I stretched rear end out a few inches and coast was nice enough to relengthen my rear shaft for free..... Great company!!!
Great! That is good to know! I will order mine in the morning.

So now I am getting off topic, I have stock arms at 3.5" lift. Do I need to get adjustable control arms?
Old 10-09-2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 19Delta

Great! That is good to know! I will order mine in the morning.

So now I am getting off topic, I have stock arms at 3.5" lift. Do I need to get adjustable control arms?
I'd recommend front lowers and rear uppers
The double cardian joints on your driveshafts can handle a pretty decent angle before they start to vibrate.


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