37" tire necessities
11-07-2013, 06:55 AM
#21
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If you are really going to wheel 25% of the time with the jeep (that = about 90 days a year) I would look into a rear dana 60 with some 35 spline shafts and run some 5.13 or 5.38 gears depending on your transmission. Upgrade the fronts like others have said and add some RCV shafts Trimmed or flat fender flares and a 2.5"-3.5" lift. If looking at higher heights I would look into a drag link flip and mb some Reid high steer knuckles to move the tie rod up a bit. I would put front and rear 1310 driveshafts on the list. Run some 12" travel shocks and wheels with 3-3.5" back spacing. Truth be told much more info on what you do, where you live, and budget will dictate what you do. Saying you don't have much experience off roading then building a rig to run that much time off road with no budget does not add up to something you can realistically do.
11-07-2013, 08:22 AM
#22
JK Super Freak
Dont be scared just to run them...
There are ALOT of guys running 37"s on factory D30s... yet you can buy a built D30 easier than finding a busted stock D30.
River Raider has dudes running 40"s on stock D30s, and I have had 37"s on a DD that I used to DRIVE 10 hours to wheel level 5-6 trails in Claytonm then drive it to the office the next day. Its not made out of popsical sticks- but sooner or later yout going to break it so wheel the piss out of it until you do!
River Raider has dudes running 40"s on stock D30s, and I have had 37"s on a DD that I used to DRIVE 10 hours to wheel level 5-6 trails in Claytonm then drive it to the office the next day. Its not made out of popsical sticks- but sooner or later yout going to break it so wheel the piss out of it until you do!
11-07-2013, 08:27 AM
#24
JK Super Freak
Exatly.
The point is D30s empirically break sooner than D44s... so it stand to reason that youll get farther than my D30 but still end up going tons anyway. Hence the "Do it" message.
D30 doing 3 pointers off a cliff:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUV6KKbSm9g
D30 doing 3 pointers off a cliff:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUV6KKbSm9g
11-07-2013, 10:33 AM
#25
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If you are really going to wheel 25% of the time with the jeep (that = about 90 days a year) I would look into a rear dana 60 with some 35 spline shafts and run some 5.13 or 5.38 gears depending on your transmission. Upgrade the fronts like others have said and add some RCV shafts Trimmed or flat fender flares and a 2.5"-3.5" lift. If looking at higher heights I would look into a drag link flip and mb some Reid high steer knuckles to move the tie rod up a bit. I would put front and rear 1310 driveshafts on the list. Run some 12" travel shocks and wheels with 3-3.5" back spacing. Truth be told much more info on what you do, where you live, and budget will dictate what you do. Saying you don't have much experience off roading then building a rig to run that much time off road with no budget does not add up to something you can realistically do.
11-07-2013, 01:04 PM
#26
Okay I'm kind of in the same boat as the OP.... in the front end of my 09 jku auto sport X model I have the complete PR 44 with 5.13 gears , RCV's, dynatrac ball joints, reid knuckles etc.
I'm moving up from 35" Mickey MTZ's to 37" Goodyear MTR w Kevlar ..... They are only 2lbs heavier per tire ....... What at bare minimum should I do to my back end Dana 44 ..... I was thinking just chromoly axle shafts ..... Or do I need them? Because the weight difference is only 2lbs ???
Thanks
Oh and any problems switching back to my 35 inch Duratracs on steelies for five months of the year during the winter after I get my 37 I'll be rolling on 37's for seven months and back to 35 inch for five months
I'm moving up from 35" Mickey MTZ's to 37" Goodyear MTR w Kevlar ..... They are only 2lbs heavier per tire ....... What at bare minimum should I do to my back end Dana 44 ..... I was thinking just chromoly axle shafts ..... Or do I need them? Because the weight difference is only 2lbs ???
Thanks
Oh and any problems switching back to my 35 inch Duratracs on steelies for five months of the year during the winter after I get my 37 I'll be rolling on 37's for seven months and back to 35 inch for five months
Last edited by robsjeep9; 11-12-2013 at 02:23 PM.
11-07-2013, 01:13 PM
#27
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It think it is more than just comparing weight, the taller tires will have a larger footprint, and more rotational mass?
Run the stock shafts until they bend, or replace with alloy and keep the stocks for trail spares. If you bend one, it isn't going to happen immediately after the upgrade, so not like you have to decide right away.
Lots of people run a different winter set, no issues at all.
Run the stock shafts until they bend, or replace with alloy and keep the stocks for trail spares. If you bend one, it isn't going to happen immediately after the upgrade, so not like you have to decide right away.
Lots of people run a different winter set, no issues at all.
11-07-2013, 01:15 PM
#28
It think it is more than just comparing weight, the taller tires will have a larger footprint, and more rotational mass?
Run the stock shafts until they bend, or replace with alloy and keep the stocks for trail spares. If you bend one, it isn't going to happen immediately after the upgrade, so not like you have to decide right away.
Lots of people run a different winter set, no issues at all.
Run the stock shafts until they bend, or replace with alloy and keep the stocks for trail spares. If you bend one, it isn't going to happen immediately after the upgrade, so not like you have to decide right away.
Lots of people run a different winter set, no issues at all.
Last edited by robsjeep9; 11-07-2013 at 01:19 PM.
11-07-2013, 01:26 PM
#30
