37" Lift and Suspension Help and Advice - Daily Driver
#21
well just cause you haven't seen it, it must suck on the rocks I really wanted to post this cause there just inst enuff talk on this site supporting less in more. I would prob just recommend a very mild lift 1-2.5" up front and 1-1.5" in the rear. that will fit 35s no prob, with a little trimming 37s will fit and all you need is a regear and support your Cs. pretty cheap IMO and you keep the jeep almost stock and at low center a gravity. pretty much perfect for a DD IMHO. but if you wanna throw down a bunch of cash go ahead its your wallet. But I'm sure with the mild lift and even 35s he would be able to go wherever he wants and have a solid DD too. 37s wont make too much dif here nor there since its only one more lil inch of clearance.
there is a lot wrong with going a 3.5-4" lift. you will need some more after market parts. this costs money and well is just a waste. if im on 37s mild lift and you are 37s and 3.5-4" lift, we have the same clearance, you might have a lil more in the belly but you still get hung up on the same shit as I would. personally I would rather not screw with the geometry to get such a trivial amount of articulation at the risk of making me spend more money or troubleshoot issues (death wobble, axle alignment, driveshaft angles etc...) that the new bigger lift and aftermarket parts will introduce. I run a LowCOG build and I love it but what do I and MOPAR know...
there is a lot wrong with going a 3.5-4" lift. you will need some more after market parts. this costs money and well is just a waste. if im on 37s mild lift and you are 37s and 3.5-4" lift, we have the same clearance, you might have a lil more in the belly but you still get hung up on the same shit as I would. personally I would rather not screw with the geometry to get such a trivial amount of articulation at the risk of making me spend more money or troubleshoot issues (death wobble, axle alignment, driveshaft angles etc...) that the new bigger lift and aftermarket parts will introduce. I run a LowCOG build and I love it but what do I and MOPAR know...
And you see that I didn't go more than 2.5" of lift for the purpose of keeping my rig more stable with the lcog. Don't have any intention of going higher, either. And if you read my original post (1st after the OP's) you'll see, too, that I support the less is more theory. I suggested the most minimalistic 2,5" lift RK offers, short of a budget boost, because I know it works.
#22
well just cause you haven't seen it, it must suck on the rocks I really wanted to post this cause there just inst enuff talk on this site supporting less in more. I would prob just recommend a very mild lift 1-2.5" up front and 1-1.5" in the rear. that will fit 35s no prob, with a little trimming 37s will fit and all you need is a regear and support your Cs. pretty cheap IMO and you keep the jeep almost stock and at low center a gravity. pretty much perfect for a DD IMHO. but if you wanna throw down a bunch of cash go ahead its your wallet. But I'm sure with the mild lift and even 35s he would be able to go wherever he wants and have a solid DD too. 37s wont make too much dif here nor there since its only one more lil inch of clearance.
there is a lot wrong with going a 3.5-4" lift. you will need some more after market parts. this costs money and well is just a waste. if im on 37s mild lift and you are 37s and 3.5-4" lift, we have the same clearance, you might have a lil more in the belly but you still get hung up on the same shit as I would. personally I would rather not screw with the geometry to get such a trivial amount of articulation at the risk of making me spend more money or troubleshoot issues (death wobble, axle alignment, driveshaft angles etc...) that the new bigger lift and aftermarket parts will introduce. I run a LowCOG build and I love it but what do I and MOPAR know...
there is a lot wrong with going a 3.5-4" lift. you will need some more after market parts. this costs money and well is just a waste. if im on 37s mild lift and you are 37s and 3.5-4" lift, we have the same clearance, you might have a lil more in the belly but you still get hung up on the same shit as I would. personally I would rather not screw with the geometry to get such a trivial amount of articulation at the risk of making me spend more money or troubleshoot issues (death wobble, axle alignment, driveshaft angles etc...) that the new bigger lift and aftermarket parts will introduce. I run a LowCOG build and I love it but what do I and MOPAR know...
Any info on your build? pics? thanks
#23
Damn, man. You act like I just insulted your mother. Never said the lower forty sucks in the rocks. But judging from the build specs on it, it appears that it was built more along the lines of handling sand dunes. If it works in the rocks, great. Just doesn't seem like it would without some additional articulation.
And you see that I didn't go more than 2.5" of lift for the purpose of keeping my rig more stable with the lcog. Don't have any intention of going higher, either. And if you read my original post (1st after the OP's) you'll see, too, that I support the less is more theory. I suggested the most minimalistic 2,5" lift RK offers, short of a budget boost, because I know it works.
And you see that I didn't go more than 2.5" of lift for the purpose of keeping my rig more stable with the lcog. Don't have any intention of going higher, either. And if you read my original post (1st after the OP's) you'll see, too, that I support the less is more theory. I suggested the most minimalistic 2,5" lift RK offers, short of a budget boost, because I know it works.
#24
oh buddy I never meant to insult you and I am def not upset at all. I just wanted to share a dif perspective than most ppl have on this forum. don't get me wrong a jeep on a 6" lift running 44s is sweet as hell but it costs a pretty penny and takes a lot of work to get it right. Most ppl prob wont need anything close to that. the ones who will prob already know exactly how they will build it. for the rest of us, it just makes $en$e to try and Keep It Simple Stupid. lol pls don't take offense to that its just the way I see things I'm in the rocks, mud, sand, snow all the time a lot rougher than those pics you posted (again not trying to insult you) and I have never had an issue. I just wanted to throw out what you can do without causing a lot of issues and it's up to each individual to do whatever they what. There is no right or better way, it just boils down to budget and how much time/effort you want to put into your jeep. I personally like to spend my time wheeling, so I built my jeep to be solid so im in the rocks and not in the shop
#25
No worries, man. We have the same thought pattern. I don't beat on my rig at all, but I have every confidence that if I did, it would be able to withstand what I could throw at it. Although....I would like to add the Artec truss kit and hydro assist in the near future. I'm like you, though....I see no reason to lift any higher than I already have. Don't need it. And my rig is just as capable a any of the others I wheel with. I think my limiting factor is my lack of confidence in my own abilities as a driver. And not so much that I can't drive; I just don't take very many chances because I'd like to be able to drive my rig home at the end of the day. It's at least not a daily driver, though.
Is there one manufacturer or lift type that provides a better road experience that still provides plenty of off road capability? Everyone has provided great insight - very helpful. Thanks!
#26
I think you both make very good arguments for the less is more approach. I am going to seriously consider that approach; however, let's say I want a higher lift which means lot's of domino adjustments:
Is there one manufacturer or lift type that provides a better road experience that still provides plenty of off road capability? Everyone has provided great insight - very helpful. Thanks!
Is there one manufacturer or lift type that provides a better road experience that still provides plenty of off road capability? Everyone has provided great insight - very helpful. Thanks!
#27
I think you both make very good arguments for the less is more approach. I am going to seriously consider that approach; however, let's say I want a higher lift which means lot's of domino adjustments:
Is there one manufacturer or lift type that provides a better road experience that still provides plenty of off road capability? Everyone has provided great insight - very helpful. Thanks!
Is there one manufacturer or lift type that provides a better road experience that still provides plenty of off road capability? Everyone has provided great insight - very helpful. Thanks!
#28
RK coils
Thanks. Here's mine with 3100/3101
#29
I have a 2009 JKU Rubicon with manual transmission that I am looking to lift with 37s . I have read through various posts on builds and have a general understanding of what I need to do, but would like some input on what components, lifts (type, amount, manufacturer), modifications/upgrades I should include to make this a very capable off road beast with plenty of flexing but still a great DD (put about 20K in annual miles). Not too concerned with MPG, but ways to address the horrible gas usage would be appreciated. I dont want to go cheap on the build and appreciate quality I have $ to spend but dont want to go crazy. In general, I would rather spend marginally more and buy something quality than go cheap and regret it later. I know that I will need to reinforce or upgrade a number of components and would rather make the modifications/upgrades now than have a situation down the road where something failed.
My general priorities:
1) Dependable daily driver that rides great preferably better than or same as stock
2) Very capable off road performance, mainly trails with some rock crawling (live in Virginia)
3) Wow factor this may be my compensating for something, but I would like to make this a fun to drive, fun to show vehicle
4) Reasonable (read quality and value) cost
5) Do all the lift/mod/upgrades that relate to the lift/suspension/driving one time rather than in phases
Also, I live in the Northern Virginia area and would be interested in thoughts on getting this work done. Just joined local jeep group but really dont know anyone to help with a wrenching party . Happy to help with the work (although I would be learning not leading). Otherwise, is there a local garage/mod shop I should consider?
So, if you were building your dream 37 JKU manual transmission DD / off road beast, how would you put it all together? Please be specific and comprehensive as this is all relatively new to me and please dont assume that I know something that may seem obvious to others on this board.
My general priorities:
1) Dependable daily driver that rides great preferably better than or same as stock
2) Very capable off road performance, mainly trails with some rock crawling (live in Virginia)
3) Wow factor this may be my compensating for something, but I would like to make this a fun to drive, fun to show vehicle
4) Reasonable (read quality and value) cost
5) Do all the lift/mod/upgrades that relate to the lift/suspension/driving one time rather than in phases
Also, I live in the Northern Virginia area and would be interested in thoughts on getting this work done. Just joined local jeep group but really dont know anyone to help with a wrenching party . Happy to help with the work (although I would be learning not leading). Otherwise, is there a local garage/mod shop I should consider?
So, if you were building your dream 37 JKU manual transmission DD / off road beast, how would you put it all together? Please be specific and comprehensive as this is all relatively new to me and please dont assume that I know something that may seem obvious to others on this board.
Front drop brackets and stock arms. DL flip.
Rear synergy lower fixed arms with TF Alpine adjustable uppers and Superlift track bar with the duroflex joints.
I don't rock crawl just moderate trails through the woods etc.
Drives good in the highway no wandering.
3.8 so it does need to be regear-ed when funds allow
Been this way for 3 years with no gussets or axle sleeves yet and no problems.
Sent from my SM-N920T using JK-Forum
#30
4" Evo on 37" Courser MXT's.
Front drop brackets and stock arms. DL flip.
Rear synergy lower fixed arms with TF Alpine adjustable uppers and Superlift track bar with the duroflex joints.
I don't rock crawl just moderate trails through the woods etc.
Drives good in the highway no wandering.
3.8 so it does need to be regear-ed when funds allow
Been this way for 3 years with no gussets or axle sleeves yet and no problems.
Sent from my SM-N920T using JK-Forum
Sent from my SM-N920T using JK-Forum