sclan

I currently have a 4" basic lift but on the stock SRA's and 17in wheels. I have yet to get an adjustable trackbar and all the other items. I have the 4-door, auto, with 3.73 gears.

I found an awesome deal on tires (Toyo M/T). But I have to go on a trip (approx 300 mile trip one way) next week so the only time I can get them is this weekend, or I pass up this oppourtunity.

I know I need spacers and a flashpaq, but none of the shops around here have either in stock. And of course gears, but that can wait a while

I know I can buy them and then just store them till I get back, but I want to mount them this weekend cause there is the potential for me to do some wheeling while I'm gone, plus there may, and I say may be the off chance that the shops where I'm going could get them in while I'm there.

Questions:
1) Can I still drive? I'm thinking the only rubbing I may have is when I'm at full turn.

2) Could I still do some light trails?

3) As far as the odometer, I know I can drive 5 miles below the spedometer to compensate, but what about the odometer. The flashpaq can fix this, but is there anything "illegal" about the odometer being off. Can the dealer adjust the computer for me.

4) Will this look odd without spacers.

Wiseman says, wait till I get everything then wait for another deal...but seriously, if we think we can get away with something, we will.

BrettDez

1) With 35s and a 4" lift because of the stock backspacing you have, you may have rubbing on turns.

2) You still can do trails, but expect rubbing when you do any tight turns and articulate. I would just get new wheels or new spacers. And at the cost of wheel spacers? You might as well get some cheep steel wheels like cragars! I recommend a wheel with 4.5" or 5.5" of backspacing.

3)Nothing illegal about having your odometer off. Just remember like you're already doing, it's no excuse for speeding because it was YOUR modification! And there are other alternatives to JUST the flashpaq. There's Hypertech Reporgrammers, there's the AEV Procal(I used this one, worked GREAT), and more!

4) It won't look odd, but I recommend getting some cheap cragar steelies at like $65 each.

Pygeum

If you have a basic 4" lift, I would save money for new driveshafts. That should be high up on the list of things to do first, IMO.

sclan

That's right about the cragers. But freaking no one carries them in stock...of course the really nice ones are available, but I don't want to rush on the wheels. I'm ok on the impulse buy for the tires, cause these were one of my top 3 choices.

Maybe I can talk to the store and just buy the tires, throw them i the garage, and mount them later. But dang it, I wanted to roll with them NOW.

That is true about the other computer systems, didn't think of that.

Thanks for the reply

sclan

True, I forgot to add that to my post,

I'm basicly wondering if I can still go on this trip with the new tires. All the other mods will come along of course.

opdsgt

Toyos are significantly heavier than several other excellent off-road tire choices available; I predict this additional weight will only exacerbate the poor acceleration and braking performance you're going to face with 35" rubber, 3.73 gearing and an automatic transmission.

I would save until you have enough set aside to do it right.

sclan

I'm gonna get all the right mods, but can't this weekend before my trip.

So what I've read so far, everyone is saying don't even drive a few miles with 35's unless I have:

Spacers / right backspacing wheels
a chip to adjust for speed and odometer
front drive shaft

all at the same time?

So pass on this deal and wait

srtklr

I did basicly the same thing youve done except I have around a 3.5" lift. I tried to mount the tires and wheels on(stock 16" steel wheels with 315/75/16 bighorns)and the side wall of the tire was against the control arms in the rear. Ended up getting spacers from Rough Country for the time being.

The rear axle is shifted over to the right enough that its very noticible and actually has the right rear kinda propped up higher than the left. I've got a track bar coming from northridge. Also the rear brake lines are too short and with the axle drooped they are stretched to the max. Going to fabricate some drop brackets today.

So from my experience to run the 35's and especialy if you are going to wheel it at the minimum your going to have to have spacers and a set of rear brake line drop brackets. I would highly recomend getting a rear track bar bracket or better yet track bar while your at it

Pygeum

Its up to you. I waited almost a year to do my lift, tires AND regear. I waited and did it all at once, driveshafts included. Why? Do it right the first time and save money. Its done, drives killer. I would suggest if you think the deal is right, buy them and hold off installing them till you get the other parts so you don't have issues. Just my

sclan

Yes, thank you all for the replies.

I went to the tire shop today and ohhh yeah, I wouldn't even be able to mount them on the stock wheels unless spacers (or new wheels) were added at the same time. I could imagine the tires rubbing (burning) against the rear wheel wells.

I also forgot about the whole axles shifting to one side with just a basic lift (no control arms, adjustable track bars etc.)

Yup, looks like I'll just continue to wait and save, wait and save.

Thank you all again