35s or 33s? - pros and cons...
#61
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First off, be honest with yourself: Why do you want 33s or 35s? Why do you prefer 35s? If the answer is for off-road performance that you need, then that's your answer--end of discussion (except I will point out that I followed a lot of guys on 35s all over Moab and Disney on my "little" 33s!). If the answer is for looks, well, only you can decide whether 33s (or even 35s) will satisfy that craving. Here are comparison pictures of my Jeep with stock SRAs, 33s and a 2.5" BB and 35s and a 2.5" coil lift (try to ignore the other mod's and concentrate on the tires/lift):
33" Dick Cepek FC IIs
See signature for details
My driving impression was stock, after break-in (about 3K miles) it had okay highway performance. This is a six speed and 4.10 gears (factory tow pkg netted me that upgrade back in '07). With the 33s and 4.10 gears, the highway performance was so-so. I always said I would not want any larger tires or any taller gears (3.73, etc). And that would include the auto tranny, which requires switching to the next lower set of gears (4.56 in this case) to get the same overall gearing as a manual. Plenty of folks attest to problems with the auto in overdrive on the highway when running larger tires on stock gears.
With the 35s I also upgraded to 4.88s. It's a great combo--feels like factory again. Be aware that I was running the Hypertech tune at all times. As for MPG (these are accurate numbers, CALCULATED over many long distance trips since I take a 3-6K mile trip several times a year and the Jeep speedometer/odometer is confirmed with GPS): Stock, 19-21 MPG. 33s and 4.10s, 16-17 MPG. 35s and 4.88s, 14-15 MPG.
As for mod's: You can go to 33s with barely any mod's. If you put a 2.5" BB on you will probably want adjustable front lower controls arms unless you can tolerate that "driving on ice" feeling. It's very annoying at highway speeds, so you probably should figure on at least that expense. The 33" tire will be fine on your stock tire carrier. As for 35s: You should plan on eventually doing something to beef up the tire carrier. If that is a new bumper, and you throw a new bumper on the front, then the additional weight is going to cause spring sag. Then you're looking at a coil lift to replace the BB.
The above advice is based on my 76K miles with my Jeep over the past four years. YMMV.
33" Dick Cepek FC IIs
See signature for details
My driving impression was stock, after break-in (about 3K miles) it had okay highway performance. This is a six speed and 4.10 gears (factory tow pkg netted me that upgrade back in '07). With the 33s and 4.10 gears, the highway performance was so-so. I always said I would not want any larger tires or any taller gears (3.73, etc). And that would include the auto tranny, which requires switching to the next lower set of gears (4.56 in this case) to get the same overall gearing as a manual. Plenty of folks attest to problems with the auto in overdrive on the highway when running larger tires on stock gears.
With the 35s I also upgraded to 4.88s. It's a great combo--feels like factory again. Be aware that I was running the Hypertech tune at all times. As for MPG (these are accurate numbers, CALCULATED over many long distance trips since I take a 3-6K mile trip several times a year and the Jeep speedometer/odometer is confirmed with GPS): Stock, 19-21 MPG. 33s and 4.10s, 16-17 MPG. 35s and 4.88s, 14-15 MPG.
As for mod's: You can go to 33s with barely any mod's. If you put a 2.5" BB on you will probably want adjustable front lower controls arms unless you can tolerate that "driving on ice" feeling. It's very annoying at highway speeds, so you probably should figure on at least that expense. The 33" tire will be fine on your stock tire carrier. As for 35s: You should plan on eventually doing something to beef up the tire carrier. If that is a new bumper, and you throw a new bumper on the front, then the additional weight is going to cause spring sag. Then you're looking at a coil lift to replace the BB.
The above advice is based on my 76K miles with my Jeep over the past four years. YMMV.
#62
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Depends on what the jeep is for. I had a 2008 rubi with 35's and i wheeled the crap out of it. Now i have a 2011 JKU and the most use in the woods its goingot see is low blues never a black or a red. So im going with 285 / 70 / r 17's which are jsut a hair above 32's. No lift no drama just a good looking jeep for family outings. If i were to wheel it again. 35's no doubt. 285/70's there is no need for a lift or regear. They are like pizza cutters lol. but at least my jeep will be capable.
#63
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For ME, the most vital piece of information in regards to the OP's question is the fact that the OP already has 32" km2s. Why waste all that dough on 33's to gain 1/2" clearance difference??
Spend the extra $ to get 35s and enjoy all the looks you get rolling w bigger meats & enjoy the increased capability on the trails. I doubt youd be able to wheel no better in 33's than 32's
Spend the extra $ to get 35s and enjoy all the looks you get rolling w bigger meats & enjoy the increased capability on the trails. I doubt youd be able to wheel no better in 33's than 32's
#64
hey guys, I was in the same dilemma! Tire size is always a hard choice and I made up my mind from this site! I decided on 33s with my 2.5 bb and I am very glad I did for a few reasons. I have 4:10s and a 6 speed and I cant imagine going much bigger without regearing. With just updating to this jeep, I didn't really have the money to regear at the time so i went smaller but think it still looks great and I am satisfied (for now...lol). The 35s would have looked better sure, but the thing is already a complete dog up hills and already drives me crazy at times, 35s would have put me in the crazy house!!! Lots of hills in the northeast! Gotta start reading up on chips!
#65
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With my current setup, 285's 3.73 auto, driving around flat eastern Maryland its fine. Not as zippy as when I was on thin 265s. I get up into Southern and central PA and the jeep is a dog on the highway hills. Overdrive comes off then. Does great at Rausch Creek.
Parked next to a JK at work with a four inch lift and 35's and he was about a quarter inch higher than me....that's all. Thought the point of 35s was more height clearance and stability?
I'll stick with 33s as I'm not ready to drop the cash on regearing, gussets, axle reinforcement, new rear bumper + tire carrier etc.
Parked next to a JK at work with a four inch lift and 35's and he was about a quarter inch higher than me....that's all. Thought the point of 35s was more height clearance and stability?
I'll stick with 33s as I'm not ready to drop the cash on regearing, gussets, axle reinforcement, new rear bumper + tire carrier etc.
#66
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Go with 35's or you'll regret it. i went with 35's and regret not going with 37's since I have the room for them. 35's will kill your mileage around town, I still get 19-20 on the freeway. The 35's will fit your spare holder with no mods and the 3rd brake lite is still useable. So lift it and run 35's or leave it low and run 33's, just dont lift it and run 33's JMO
#67
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For ME, the most vital piece of information in regards to the OP's question is the fact that the OP already has 32" km2s. Why waste all that dough on 33's to gain 1/2" clearance difference??
Spend the extra $ to get 35s and enjoy all the looks you get rolling w bigger meats & enjoy the increased capability on the trails. I doubt youd be able to wheel no better in 33's than 32's
Spend the extra $ to get 35s and enjoy all the looks you get rolling w bigger meats & enjoy the increased capability on the trails. I doubt youd be able to wheel no better in 33's than 32's
#68
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#69
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Haha you guys keep posting, but I (the OP) bought my Toyo 35s a few months back and keep posting here saying thanks for all the advice
I hope this thread will help others on the fence like I was! 35s all the way!!!
I hope this thread will help others on the fence like I was! 35s all the way!!!
#70
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Looks???? HANDS DOWN !!! [B]35's!!! It's the same difference as a Harley Sportster vs Harley Fatbot!!!