35's with 3" lift or 5"
12-31-2010, 11:51 AM
#12
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Defiantly dont lift more than 2.5-3 with stock shafts. I have a 2.5 on my 2 door, stock flares, did some minor trimming but clears 34.5's easy. at full flex there are some minor rubbing points, but nothing serious, and will all go away if add a 1inch body lift or change flares.
12-31-2010, 03:12 PM
#15
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My front boot is thrashed and has been for a while, there are known instances of peoples lastin 50k mileswith boot torn. I personally would not base my lift on DS roll out till it starts clicking at ya then replace it
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12-31-2010, 04:14 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by FrankTheTank
In the best interest of your driveshafts and for a lower center of gravity, you can also keep it stock and use small spacers and flat fenders. This will give you the SAME articulation and flex as a 3" lift.
I know this because I just went from a complete 3" teraflex lift to the build I just mentioned above. It also got rid of my driveline vibration and the ride is a lot smoother too.
I know this because I just went from a complete 3" teraflex lift to the build I just mentioned above. It also got rid of my driveline vibration and the ride is a lot smoother too.
12-31-2010, 04:17 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by planman
I run 40s on a 3.5" lift, 1" body lift, and flat flares on my 2 dr.
If I were building for 35s, I'd do no more than a 2.5" lift with either flat flares or a 1" body lift.
Done correctly on a 2 door, a 3.5"-4" lift results in about $1500-$2000 for the lift and another $1000 for driveshafts.
Whereas, a 2.5" lift done correctly runs about 1/2 the cost and does not require driveshafts.
The $1750-$2000 saved by going with a 2.5" lift can cover the cost of regearing, a Superchips Flashpaq programmer, and maybe even a winch or Bushwacker flat flares.
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If I were building for 35s, I'd do no more than a 2.5" lift with either flat flares or a 1" body lift.
Done correctly on a 2 door, a 3.5"-4" lift results in about $1500-$2000 for the lift and another $1000 for driveshafts.
Whereas, a 2.5" lift done correctly runs about 1/2 the cost and does not require driveshafts.
The $1750-$2000 saved by going with a 2.5" lift can cover the cost of regearing, a Superchips Flashpaq programmer, and maybe even a winch or Bushwacker flat flares.
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12-31-2010, 06:38 PM
#18
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12-31-2010, 08:56 PM
#19
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you can run a 35" with a TeraFlex 2.5" buget boost. I have a 3" full arm suspension from TeraFlex and it sits about 4". Leaves you room to bolt everything else on and still have room for the 35's.
01-01-2011, 07:55 AM
#20
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Well I have bushwacker Flatties and an Automatic. I want a simple turnkey small lift without driveshaft lengthening. The guy at Northridge told me I could do the longtravel kit minus the long shocks and later on when I'm ready get a driveshaft and longer shocks