35's on a 3"?
03-02-2007, 08:05 PM
#1
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35's on a 3"?
Just wondering if I install the 3" Full Traction lift on my Rubicon can I really clear
35 by 12.50's, 4wd.com said "yes" but I wanted to know what you all's experience was on this and if anybody had any problems with the suspension econo lift from Full Traction. Thank you for your help.
35 by 12.50's, 4wd.com said "yes" but I wanted to know what you all's experience was on this and if anybody had any problems with the suspension econo lift from Full Traction. Thank you for your help.
03-02-2007, 08:10 PM
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yea it clears. but you do need to get either new wheels or wheel spacers.
I'm running stock wheels with 1 1/2" wheel spacers, the only thing I "had" to trim was a little off the front air dam. I also trimmed the rear body seam and rock rail (rubicon).
oh yea not sure if others are having this but my FT econo lift did'nt make my JK sit level it still has a rake and the springs are stiffer than I was hoping for. hopefully they break in and soften up a little....
I'm running stock wheels with 1 1/2" wheel spacers, the only thing I "had" to trim was a little off the front air dam. I also trimmed the rear body seam and rock rail (rubicon).
oh yea not sure if others are having this but my FT econo lift did'nt make my JK sit level it still has a rake and the springs are stiffer than I was hoping for. hopefully they break in and soften up a little....
03-03-2007, 01:57 PM
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Just wondering if I install the 3" Full Traction lift on my Rubicon can I really clear
35 by 12.50's, 4wd.com said "yes" but I wanted to know what you all's experience was on this and if anybody had any problems with the suspension econo lift from Full Traction. Thank you for your help.
35 by 12.50's, 4wd.com said "yes" but I wanted to know what you all's experience was on this and if anybody had any problems with the suspension econo lift from Full Traction. Thank you for your help.
03-03-2007, 07:59 PM
#4
3" and 35's no problem, new wheels or spacers required though. I suggest a new front sway bar and some adj control arms to go with an economy lift though.
dhoffroad, how ia your handling with the econo lift? I think you said you were making some control arms, is that correct?
dhoffroad, how ia your handling with the econo lift? I think you said you were making some control arms, is that correct?
03-03-2007, 08:04 PM
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my handling was actualy prety good just a tiny bit "darty" but nothing major at all. I still plan on making my control arms but right now I'm prety busy at the shop so I took the easy way out and threw in some cam bolts so it was back to good for the wife when she drives the jeep...
03-04-2007, 01:37 PM
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After weeks of checking around I'm getting a 3" lift done next week and the following weekend am getting 35" AT's put on my stock R16 wheels.
Dealer sells me 5 for the price of four 315/75R16 (I think) thru the parts dept.
Then I get 'em "installed" and aligned thru the service dept. where she gives me $250 back for my stock 30" Wranglers. Which I think is damned good considering they have almost 6,000 miles on 'em.
It boils down to jt under $600 out of pocket to get the 35" tires on.
Lol! well thats not including the 3" lift
Thats costing $823 for the lift plus whatever for the 5 1.5" spacers ,you need to add a spacer to the spare rack to carry a 35" tire there as well.
The stealer wanted $1,500 to do the lift.
They did caution that the rear "trackbar???" needed to be 12" or there would be tire rub. I checked and Desert Rat's install includes that as well as alignment.
I am realigning when putting on the 35"s tho as I predict they will be off when going 5" bigger.
I need the AT's as most of my driving in the Jeep will be going to and coming from trailheads etc.
Oh BTW I'm going 3" in a mild effort to keep the center of gravity lower.
There's a reason for everything, I just don't know what it is.....
Some info about tires that I learned:
315/75R16 means:
315 milimeters wide tread = 315 x .03937 = 12.4" wide
the 75 means 75% of the tread width between the rim and the tread PER SIDE (this is called the "aspect ratio"
so 12.4 x .75 = 9.3" between the rim and tire diameter
so 9.3 x 2 (1 time on the top side of the tire and 1 time on the bottom) = 18.6" of sidewall
the R16 means the rim of the wheel is 16" in diameter.
so... 16 + 18.6 = 34.6 " of actual tire diameter x 12.4" wide.
Several different sources debunked the myth that I would NEED to change out my wheels as many others had told me.
Do check with your dealship as to buying tires ! There is a Discount Tire across the street from mine and they where more than competative.
Especially being able to get some bucks back on the used ones! Thats just TOO sweet!
Dealer sells me 5 for the price of four 315/75R16 (I think) thru the parts dept.
Then I get 'em "installed" and aligned thru the service dept. where she gives me $250 back for my stock 30" Wranglers. Which I think is damned good considering they have almost 6,000 miles on 'em.
It boils down to jt under $600 out of pocket to get the 35" tires on.
Lol! well thats not including the 3" lift
Thats costing $823 for the lift plus whatever for the 5 1.5" spacers ,you need to add a spacer to the spare rack to carry a 35" tire there as well.
The stealer wanted $1,500 to do the lift.
They did caution that the rear "trackbar???" needed to be 12" or there would be tire rub. I checked and Desert Rat's install includes that as well as alignment.
I am realigning when putting on the 35"s tho as I predict they will be off when going 5" bigger.
I need the AT's as most of my driving in the Jeep will be going to and coming from trailheads etc.
Oh BTW I'm going 3" in a mild effort to keep the center of gravity lower.
There's a reason for everything, I just don't know what it is.....
Some info about tires that I learned:
315/75R16 means:
315 milimeters wide tread = 315 x .03937 = 12.4" wide
the 75 means 75% of the tread width between the rim and the tread PER SIDE (this is called the "aspect ratio"
so 12.4 x .75 = 9.3" between the rim and tire diameter
so 9.3 x 2 (1 time on the top side of the tire and 1 time on the bottom) = 18.6" of sidewall
the R16 means the rim of the wheel is 16" in diameter.
so... 16 + 18.6 = 34.6 " of actual tire diameter x 12.4" wide.
Several different sources debunked the myth that I would NEED to change out my wheels as many others had told me.
Do check with your dealship as to buying tires ! There is a Discount Tire across the street from mine and they where more than competative.
Especially being able to get some bucks back on the used ones! Thats just TOO sweet!
Last edited by LinkSync; 03-04-2007 at 01:56 PM. Reason: additional info
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03-04-2007, 04:56 PM
#8
LinkSync, here is a tire calculater for your convenience. http://www.raingler.com/tech/metricTire.asp
The only thing that would be 12" would be your rear sway bars. They would rub without the wheel spacers. What lift are you going with, brand, economy, premium,etc. You are gonna want a front track bar in the lift, and some front control arms to readjust the caster of the front axle. These components will help with the hanling of your vehicle. Not sure what your kit includes.
The nice thing about doing this through the dealer is there may be less hassle if something breaks as I am sure they would have to warranty it.
The only thing that would be 12" would be your rear sway bars. They would rub without the wheel spacers. What lift are you going with, brand, economy, premium,etc. You are gonna want a front track bar in the lift, and some front control arms to readjust the caster of the front axle. These components will help with the hanling of your vehicle. Not sure what your kit includes.
The nice thing about doing this through the dealer is there may be less hassle if something breaks as I am sure they would have to warranty it.