mds22

are you saying with 37s?? For me both are "needed" with 37s. And everyone that has both mods with 37s have said those 2 were their favorite 2 mods.

Technically you are right you don't "need" anything but coils, brakelines, and shocks. But if you want it to ride correctly you do "need" things. Ride quality is subjective and some "need" more and some are ok with less.

mds22

I have no experience with that. I will look in to that when I eventually go to 37s. I'm all about saving money as long as it still meets my needs.

holy_crap

I just installed a set of 37s on my 2014 JKU Rubicon so I can give you my opinion. My Jeep is an auto with 4.10 gears. I went with a Kanati Mud Hog 37x12.5x17 on my stock Rubicon wheel and 1.5" spacers. I have a RockKrawler 3.5" Flex lift and stock fenders. Keep in mind if you go with RockKrawler, the bump stops are not included in the kit.

First of all, many 37" tires are actually around 36" installed on the Jeep running the appropriate psi. Mine measured 36.25" @ 27psi cold. My wheel and tire combo weigh 96.5 lbs.

Gearing: In my opinion, it is not crucial to upgrade gearing at this time. Maybe 4.56 or 4.88 will help in the future, especially acceleration, if you are terribly unhappy, but so far I'm good. If anything, I will re-gear to help with towing my boat, which although doable with my current setup, it was not great.

Gussets: It is a bigger tire, gussets are a cheap way to reinforce the c's to prevent more expensive fixes in the future.
Sleves: I probably will not need, but can't hurt.

Steering: In my opinion, you can wait and see, but mine feels fine.

Brakes: I did noticed the difference here, especially when towing. I expect to upgrade my brakes in the near future, probably when it comes time to replace the pads.

Cutting and trimming: You will have to cut about 2" off the Rubicon Rails before you install the tires or you will have to remove them in order to drive home. I still need to test my up travel to see how much I will need to cut the fenders.

Looks: badass...



Next to the stock Rubi tire.

Blizz

Settle this dispute the easy way. Go with 37" KM2s. They run small anyway so you'll be looking at 36s

Monte417

Good people over there. They will tell you that you don't need a cooler. I disagree get the biggest cooler you can fit. I would also get better hoses made and keep theirs as spares.

mds22

good info, thanks.

mds22

Have you driven 37s on a jeep that has been re geared or has steering assist?? If not Please do so and then give advice on the difference it does or does not make, or if it should or should not be done. My point was people give advice based on their jeep with no experience on what they are comparing it to. Example: if some one has a lift drives it awhile then flips the drag link. He can give good advise on if you should flip the drag link at that height with that set up. Another guy has the same lift and has not flipped the drag link and had no experience with driving a jeep with that set up with it flipped. But he gives advice to someone saying you don't need to flip it, just because that is how his is set up. But he has no idea what it would or would not do to flip it.

Edit-- I'm not saying that's you, just an example. I have no idea about your experiences

WashingtonWrangler

If you are deciding between the two, get 37"s. If you even think you want 37"s and you go with 35s every time you look at your jeep you'll notice it. I love my 37"s, and I daily drive them, a lot. My opinion is that minimum you need gussets, sleeves if you wheel, and the appropriate lift, 2.5" with flats or 3.5" with stock. And I would personally regear it, makes it much more enjoyable. You definitely don't NEED hydro steering for 37"s. Stock stabilizer works great, or if it feels a little weak the Fox Ats works great, and is a lot less than 3k

Invest2m4

Ok, this thread is loaded with poor information. Let's clear some things up.

1. Tire size really isn't too relevant when talking about the front axle housing. I've seen plenty on stock tires break the axle. Most breaks are from impact. You can snap it from torsion with 35s about as easy as 37s (think Moab). Truss/sleeve, is insurance. Take it or leave it.

2. In every single thread like this, some guy jumps in who "beats on his stock D30/D44 and it's fine." Unfortunately, people's perception of how they wheel and the type of trails they wheel on, tend to be less hardcore than they think. Not a single person in the group I wheel with could make it through one season on a stock axle. Point is, be honest about the type of off-roading you will do, and prepare accordingly. DO NOT let people give you a false sense of security because something worked for them. At the same time, don't fall into the hype that if you leave the mall, you need a $5k PR44.

3. The tire weight difference argument is pretty much BS. Increased traction and rotational force are the main issues with larger tires. 37s will hook up harder, which increases the risk of breaking parts that were designed for 32" tires. Around town, braking sucks more with larger diameters. Different weights in the same diameter will hardly be noticeable, if at all.

4. Parts wear faster regardless. Well balanced 37s will be better on parts than poorly balanced 35s. Same goes for the alignment.

5. Hydro assist for street driving is absolutely not needed and I would avoid it if that's mostly what you do. I see failures in hydro systems all the time. In fact, my almost new PSC steering pump blew up on the trail a couple weeks ago. No steering fluid means no steering. Not even stock steering - you have nothing.

On the trail, it is helpful in the rocks, but not required if you know how to drive. Yeah, rocking the Jeep is a bit of a pain sometimes, but you can turn the tires 99% of the time with that technique. Now, if you wheel a ton and on hard trails,hydro will prevent failure of the steering box, which is pretty common these days. So, upgrade if that is the use case.

ANYONE who pays over $2k for the PSC kit is crazy. You can buy all the main PSC parts (ram, res, pump), get a cooler, lines, fittings, fluid, for under $1k. I know, because I did it. It's simple, and you end up with higher quality hoses that won't blow like those crap ones PSC sells in their kits.

BlackRockBurner

Did everybody read the OP usage? Mild trails and zero rocks. 37" are way too much for what this rig will see. Aggressive 33" with rake correction and flat fenders will suffice.