33's to 37's
#11
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#13
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Sapper12b would u send me a pm and tell me what shop in Dallas does gears for $900 to $1000. I'm getting close to regearing and was just wondering. Sorry to hijack.
#15
JK Super Freak
Damn Sapper, you beat me to it.
To the OP:
Having gone down that road I can give some personal experience and not just speculation. This was on my 08 JKU turning 37" toyos (true 36"). Did the stocker 3.73s and it was driveable but definitely not fun. Mine was an X so the lowest I could go was 5.13. I took the advice of board memgers and went with the 5.13s and feel it was too low for my use. I feel I would have been better off with 4.88s. Using the gear calculator on another site, comparing ratios with a stock 29" tire then jumping to a 37"(most likely a true 36") it shows a ratio of 4.63 for stock type performance and 5.05 for what they consider low gears. Since neither of those ratios is available, and to help compensate for the added weight, I would suggest the 4.88s as well. The math supports this, regardless what some of the "experts" on the different forums will say. The 4.88s will put you a bit lower than stock. If you look at the chart above, cross referencing the different tire size and ratios, you will see what I am saying.
To the OP:
Having gone down that road I can give some personal experience and not just speculation. This was on my 08 JKU turning 37" toyos (true 36"). Did the stocker 3.73s and it was driveable but definitely not fun. Mine was an X so the lowest I could go was 5.13. I took the advice of board memgers and went with the 5.13s and feel it was too low for my use. I feel I would have been better off with 4.88s. Using the gear calculator on another site, comparing ratios with a stock 29" tire then jumping to a 37"(most likely a true 36") it shows a ratio of 4.63 for stock type performance and 5.05 for what they consider low gears. Since neither of those ratios is available, and to help compensate for the added weight, I would suggest the 4.88s as well. The math supports this, regardless what some of the "experts" on the different forums will say. The 4.88s will put you a bit lower than stock. If you look at the chart above, cross referencing the different tire size and ratios, you will see what I am saying.
#16
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Dallas Shop
Thanks
#17
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They use to be a sponsor on the forum but havent seen them post anything in awhile, but they are called Lunatic Customs
#18
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Just did the same thing went from 33 trail grapplers to 37's with 2.5 TF coil lift! I have 4:10's and do see any change at all ! So if u have them I wouldn't think twice but up to you! I just changed the shoes and was off! Here's a few pics
#19
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Gears are not a one size fits all solution. There is more that goes into it than if you have this size tire you should have this gear. What speed do you intend to drive on the interstate? What type of terrain are you rolling over? What part of the country do you live in?
What the person will find living in the flatlands of Indiana, Texas or Florida is quite different than the person living in the the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, the mountains of Colorado or Montana. If you want to drive around on rural highways at 60mph it's quite different than the person who wants to travel at 75 or 80mph on the interstate.
Basically what we have is an under powered vehicle in which maintaining cruise speed doesn't leave a lot of overhead. Driving 60mph on highway flats takes a third the power of going 70mph over rolling hills. Then we have a never ending discussion about what gears are right for people, and the gear sets most often of topic range from 4.88s through 5.38s. That's about a 10% difference in gear and then we want to slice it even further over what's always at most a 300 rpm difference. Guess what, spinning the motor at 300 more rpm isn't going to make a lot of difference in efficiency if it's covering the load.
The caveat in all of this is when your terrain and speed has your transmission unlock the converter and kick down to deal with wind or grades. What unlocking the converter and a down shift means for the automatic owner of 2007-11 JKs is a greater than 50% increase in rpms. You may never have any kick downs rolling through the coastal flats of Virginia but when you get to the rolling foot hills of the Alleghenies it's a quite different story. You just need to be honest with yourself about where it is you drive and where the threshold is of using your JK off road versus as a daily driver.
What the person will find living in the flatlands of Indiana, Texas or Florida is quite different than the person living in the the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, the mountains of Colorado or Montana. If you want to drive around on rural highways at 60mph it's quite different than the person who wants to travel at 75 or 80mph on the interstate.
Basically what we have is an under powered vehicle in which maintaining cruise speed doesn't leave a lot of overhead. Driving 60mph on highway flats takes a third the power of going 70mph over rolling hills. Then we have a never ending discussion about what gears are right for people, and the gear sets most often of topic range from 4.88s through 5.38s. That's about a 10% difference in gear and then we want to slice it even further over what's always at most a 300 rpm difference. Guess what, spinning the motor at 300 more rpm isn't going to make a lot of difference in efficiency if it's covering the load.
The caveat in all of this is when your terrain and speed has your transmission unlock the converter and kick down to deal with wind or grades. What unlocking the converter and a down shift means for the automatic owner of 2007-11 JKs is a greater than 50% increase in rpms. You may never have any kick downs rolling through the coastal flats of Virginia but when you get to the rolling foot hills of the Alleghenies it's a quite different story. You just need to be honest with yourself about where it is you drive and where the threshold is of using your JK off road versus as a daily driver.
#20
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Gears are not a one size fits all solution. There is more that goes into it than if you have this size tire you should have this gear. What speed do you intend to drive on the interstate? What type of terrain are you rolling over? What part of the country do you live in?
What the person will find living in the flatlands of Indiana, Texas or Florida is quite different than the person living in the the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, the mountains of Colorado or Montana. If you want to drive around on rural highways at 60mph it's quite different than the person who wants to travel at 75 or 80mph on the interstate.
Basically what we have is an under powered vehicle in which maintaining cruise speed doesn't leave a lot of overhead. Driving 60mph on highway flats takes a third the power of going 70mph over rolling hills. Then we have a never ending discussion about what gears are right for people, and the gear sets most often of topic range from 4.88s through 5.38s. That's about a 10% difference in gear and then we want to slice it even further over what's always at most a 300 rpm difference. Guess what, spinning the motor at 300 more rpm isn't going to make a lot of difference in efficiency if it's covering the load.
The caveat in all of this is when your terrain and speed has your transmission unlock the converter and kick down to deal with wind or grades. What unlocking the converter and a down shift means for the automatic owner of 2007-11 JKs is a greater than 50% increase in rpms. You may never have any kick downs rolling through the coastal flats of Virginia but when you get to the rolling foot hills of the Alleghenies it's a quite different story. You just need to be honest with yourself about where it is you drive and where the threshold is of using your JK off road versus as a daily driver.
What the person will find living in the flatlands of Indiana, Texas or Florida is quite different than the person living in the the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, the mountains of Colorado or Montana. If you want to drive around on rural highways at 60mph it's quite different than the person who wants to travel at 75 or 80mph on the interstate.
Basically what we have is an under powered vehicle in which maintaining cruise speed doesn't leave a lot of overhead. Driving 60mph on highway flats takes a third the power of going 70mph over rolling hills. Then we have a never ending discussion about what gears are right for people, and the gear sets most often of topic range from 4.88s through 5.38s. That's about a 10% difference in gear and then we want to slice it even further over what's always at most a 300 rpm difference. Guess what, spinning the motor at 300 more rpm isn't going to make a lot of difference in efficiency if it's covering the load.
The caveat in all of this is when your terrain and speed has your transmission unlock the converter and kick down to deal with wind or grades. What unlocking the converter and a down shift means for the automatic owner of 2007-11 JKs is a greater than 50% increase in rpms. You may never have any kick downs rolling through the coastal flats of Virginia but when you get to the rolling foot hills of the Alleghenies it's a quite different story. You just need to be honest with yourself about where it is you drive and where the threshold is of using your JK off road versus as a daily driver.