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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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33's to 37's

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Old 01-18-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by smokediver
Not really sure 5.38 or bigger maybe 6 something with the auto. I'm kinda new to the offroad modding thing so all input will be considered
5.13 will be the biggest you can get if you have the dana 30 front end. I believe 5.38 is the biggest you can get with dana 44's in them. As far as this graph shows (in the modified JK FAQ) 5.38 would be the best for an Auto. As you most likely have the dana 30 front (since you have an X), 5.13 is your limit.

Old 01-18-2012, 11:09 PM
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Thanks for the info, 5.13 it is at least now when I go ask for this shit I can sound like I know what I'm talking about
Old 01-19-2012, 01:28 AM
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Sapper12b would u send me a pm and tell me what shop in Dallas does gears for $900 to $1000. I'm getting close to regearing and was just wondering. Sorry to hijack.
Old 01-19-2012, 01:30 AM
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No problem stand by
Old 01-19-2012, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Sapper12b
Im interested in your BB
Damn Sapper, you beat me to it.

To the OP:

Having gone down that road I can give some personal experience and not just speculation. This was on my 08 JKU turning 37" toyos (true 36"). Did the stocker 3.73s and it was driveable but definitely not fun. Mine was an X so the lowest I could go was 5.13. I took the advice of board memgers and went with the 5.13s and feel it was too low for my use. I feel I would have been better off with 4.88s. Using the gear calculator on another site, comparing ratios with a stock 29" tire then jumping to a 37"(most likely a true 36") it shows a ratio of 4.63 for stock type performance and 5.05 for what they consider low gears. Since neither of those ratios is available, and to help compensate for the added weight, I would suggest the 4.88s as well. The math supports this, regardless what some of the "experts" on the different forums will say. The 4.88s will put you a bit lower than stock. If you look at the chart above, cross referencing the different tire size and ratios, you will see what I am saying.
Old 01-19-2012, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Sapper12b
With 37's its recommended that you go with 5.38 you can get away with 5.13's but it still might be a bit sluggish. Either size gear you go with costs the same. There is a good shop in dallas that does re-gearing for $900-$1000 out the door.
Who might this be? I am interested as Dallas is a 3.5 hour drive for me. The cheapest I have found in OKC is $1600 installed for gears and add another 11 to 15 hundred for lockers.

Thanks
Old 01-19-2012, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by grady
Who might this be? I am interested as Dallas is a 3.5 hour drive for me. The cheapest I have found in OKC is $1600 installed for gears and add another 11 to 15 hundred for lockers.

Thanks
They use to be a sponsor on the forum but havent seen them post anything in awhile, but they are called Lunatic Customs
Old 01-19-2012, 04:22 AM
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Just did the same thing went from 33 trail grapplers to 37's with 2.5 TF coil lift! I have 4:10's and do see any change at all ! So if u have them I wouldn't think twice but up to you! I just changed the shoes and was off! Here's a few pics
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:41 AM
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Gears are not a one size fits all solution. There is more that goes into it than if you have this size tire you should have this gear. What speed do you intend to drive on the interstate? What type of terrain are you rolling over? What part of the country do you live in?

What the person will find living in the flatlands of Indiana, Texas or Florida is quite different than the person living in the the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, the mountains of Colorado or Montana. If you want to drive around on rural highways at 60mph it's quite different than the person who wants to travel at 75 or 80mph on the interstate.

Basically what we have is an under powered vehicle in which maintaining cruise speed doesn't leave a lot of overhead. Driving 60mph on highway flats takes a third the power of going 70mph over rolling hills. Then we have a never ending discussion about what gears are right for people, and the gear sets most often of topic range from 4.88s through 5.38s. That's about a 10% difference in gear and then we want to slice it even further over what's always at most a 300 rpm difference. Guess what, spinning the motor at 300 more rpm isn't going to make a lot of difference in efficiency if it's covering the load.

The caveat in all of this is when your terrain and speed has your transmission unlock the converter and kick down to deal with wind or grades. What unlocking the converter and a down shift means for the automatic owner of 2007-11 JKs is a greater than 50% increase in rpms. You may never have any kick downs rolling through the coastal flats of Virginia but when you get to the rolling foot hills of the Alleghenies it's a quite different story. You just need to be honest with yourself about where it is you drive and where the threshold is of using your JK off road versus as a daily driver.
Old 01-19-2012, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JPop
Gears are not a one size fits all solution. There is more that goes into it than if you have this size tire you should have this gear. What speed do you intend to drive on the interstate? What type of terrain are you rolling over? What part of the country do you live in?

What the person will find living in the flatlands of Indiana, Texas or Florida is quite different than the person living in the the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, the mountains of Colorado or Montana. If you want to drive around on rural highways at 60mph it's quite different than the person who wants to travel at 75 or 80mph on the interstate.

Basically what we have is an under powered vehicle in which maintaining cruise speed doesn't leave a lot of overhead. Driving 60mph on highway flats takes a third the power of going 70mph over rolling hills. Then we have a never ending discussion about what gears are right for people, and the gear sets most often of topic range from 4.88s through 5.38s. That's about a 10% difference in gear and then we want to slice it even further over what's always at most a 300 rpm difference. Guess what, spinning the motor at 300 more rpm isn't going to make a lot of difference in efficiency if it's covering the load.

The caveat in all of this is when your terrain and speed has your transmission unlock the converter and kick down to deal with wind or grades. What unlocking the converter and a down shift means for the automatic owner of 2007-11 JKs is a greater than 50% increase in rpms. You may never have any kick downs rolling through the coastal flats of Virginia but when you get to the rolling foot hills of the Alleghenies it's a quite different story. You just need to be honest with yourself about where it is you drive and where the threshold is of using your JK off road versus as a daily driver.
I live in southeast Texas so terrain is pretty flat other than over passes. This is my dd and I'm not a rock crawler and try to tear as little up as possible. I do, I guess you could say "mild offroading" I go to the beach about twice a week and would really like to find some cool trails around here to bring the family out. With the 33's my overdrive is pretty much useless I would just like to get that back when I go 37 whatever gear that may require.



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