33" M/Ts REGEAR
03-06-2009, 12:08 PM
#11
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03-06-2009, 12:09 PM
#12
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Just found this in another thread:
"I just got my 4.88 gears in my JK.
JK X, 2 door, 6 speed, 33" ProComps, 2" lift, Hypertech, air intake, exhaust.
It runs better than new! 70mph @ 2900 rpm , take off in 2nd gear, never shift down for hills or to pass."
Seems like he likes them, but appears the RPM are higher "in life" than this calculator? 2900 RPM seems a bit high to me but maybe I could get used to it. I just wonder how much lower 4.56 would really be...
"I just got my 4.88 gears in my JK.
JK X, 2 door, 6 speed, 33" ProComps, 2" lift, Hypertech, air intake, exhaust.
It runs better than new! 70mph @ 2900 rpm , take off in 2nd gear, never shift down for hills or to pass."
Seems like he likes them, but appears the RPM are higher "in life" than this calculator? 2900 RPM seems a bit high to me but maybe I could get used to it. I just wonder how much lower 4.56 would really be...
See why this is so confusing?! LOL
EDIT: beat me to the MT comment
03-06-2009, 12:12 PM
#13
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Plug in the tranny auto as .69 and the manual as .85 I think, and the transfer as 1. then select the gear ratio you want and select your speed enjoy.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm
03-06-2009, 12:20 PM
#14
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Plug in the tranny auto as .69 and the manual as .85 I think, and the transfer as 1. then select the gear ratio you want and select your speed enjoy.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm
02-12-2012, 07:04 AM
#16
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I have 33" KM2's with the stock 3.73 ratio. I really wanted to re-gear for the longest time, as it's definitely rough to maintain highway speed on any kind of incline. I ultimately decided, however, that it's livable if you turn OD off on an incline and probably not worth the $1-2K cost to regear. I bought an AEV ProCal and it definitely helped with the shift points.
If you're going to go the re-gearing route, I can tell you that after doing a lot of research, I had decided that 4.88 was the way to go with 33s... at least for me in Arizona with 75mph speed limits and 6000 ft elevation gains going up north. I know I'm going to want to go to 35s soon, and the consensus seems to be 5.13s with 35s... and I don't want to regear twice.
Before you invest the $1-2K for a gear swap, I'd suggest getting a ProCal and manually working the OD on inclines. With the lower speed limits on the east coast, that might be livable enough to not justify regearing.
Hope that helps. Good luck!
If you're going to go the re-gearing route, I can tell you that after doing a lot of research, I had decided that 4.88 was the way to go with 33s... at least for me in Arizona with 75mph speed limits and 6000 ft elevation gains going up north. I know I'm going to want to go to 35s soon, and the consensus seems to be 5.13s with 35s... and I don't want to regear twice.
Before you invest the $1-2K for a gear swap, I'd suggest getting a ProCal and manually working the OD on inclines. With the lower speed limits on the east coast, that might be livable enough to not justify regearing.
Hope that helps. Good luck!
02-12-2012, 07:29 AM
#17
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I have 33" KM2's with the stock 3.73 ratio. I really wanted to re-gear for the longest time, as it's definitely rough to maintain highway speed on any kind of incline. I ultimately decided, however, that it's livable if you turn OD off on an incline and probably not worth the $1-2K cost to regear. I bought an AEV ProCal and it definitely helped with the shift points.
If you're going to go the re-gearing route, I can tell you that after doing a lot of research, I had decided that 4.88 was the way to go with 33s... at least for me in Arizona with 75mph speed limits and 6000 ft elevation gains going up north. I know I'm going to want to go to 35s soon, and the consensus seems to be 5.13s with 35s... and I don't want to regear twice.
Before you invest the $1-2K for a gear swap, I'd suggest getting a ProCal and manually working the OD on inclines. With the lower speed limits on the east coast, that might be livable enough to not justify regearing.
Hope that helps. Good luck!
If you're going to go the re-gearing route, I can tell you that after doing a lot of research, I had decided that 4.88 was the way to go with 33s... at least for me in Arizona with 75mph speed limits and 6000 ft elevation gains going up north. I know I'm going to want to go to 35s soon, and the consensus seems to be 5.13s with 35s... and I don't want to regear twice.
Before you invest the $1-2K for a gear swap, I'd suggest getting a ProCal and manually working the OD on inclines. With the lower speed limits on the east coast, that might be livable enough to not justify regearing.
Hope that helps. Good luck!
Last edited by jgerhard; 02-12-2012 at 07:32 AM.
02-12-2012, 07:53 AM
#18
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There are a ton of threads on this subject and the common misconception is the modestly higher rpms of a steeper gear set robs efficiency. What will rob efficiency more is a greater frequency of downshifting.
A lot of things need to be sorted out. The terrain you rollover, the velocity you travel, the weight of your vehicle and what your future plans are.
As for programmers, the Superchips Flashpaq and Vivid has an optional advanced trans tune which allows customizable shift schedules. This will maximize what you get out of any gear set and personalize how your transmission performs.
A lot of things need to be sorted out. The terrain you rollover, the velocity you travel, the weight of your vehicle and what your future plans are.
As for programmers, the Superchips Flashpaq and Vivid has an optional advanced trans tune which allows customizable shift schedules. This will maximize what you get out of any gear set and personalize how your transmission performs.
02-12-2012, 08:45 AM
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