My buddy's front DS just went last week. Typical boot rip at the TC side. What was shocking was he's only got a 2.5" budget boost, less than 30k miles, and doesn't wheel. LOL. Couldn't believe he somehow ripped that boot. Even more surprising was that the dealer warrantied it!

^^ this is not the same boot, and not what typically causes the failure. I will say however that this COULD cause an issue....it just doesn't typically. When I regeared and had to remove my rear DS, had to compress it to get it off the pinion flange. Well, the boot at the splines had been ripped for 3 years or so....when went to re-install the DS it didn't want to extend back out. The splines just wouldn't slide back and forth nicely after being compressed so much. That is how that could cause failure, but ripping the boot at the joint and hemorrhaging all the grease is what typically does it. My front one died in the typical fashion.

 

My understanding was when running a front DC driveshaft it comes down to the balancing of the shaft. And depending on the gear ratio you are running that spins the shaft faster while at highway speeds can cause the T case to blow.

I'm running a Spicer 1310 DC front shaft and have no vibration at all even at 75-80mph but there was no way I could run the stock one because even at 40mph you could feel it starting to vibrate

 

The lift alone is not only the issue. When you add CA's and raise caster/reduce pinion, that adds to the angle. Off road flexing can stress the CV boot as well.

 

I have a 3" lift and so far no problems. Manual tranny. No vibes.

 

Run what you have until it starts slinging grease. It will inevitably do this, but once it starts you still have some time to get your ducks in a row.

The factory front shaft is weak sauce. If you wheel a lot and on rocks, and especially if you have a long travel front shock (say 27" and over extended length) then you really can't just make it work long term even with a teraflex high angle joint. (Now if you don't wheel much and aren't running long extended length shocks then the Tera high angle CV joint might work long term.)

The best fix is an aftermarket D.C. Shaft. This is a win all around. The smaller diameter will allow longer shock travel before it hits your exhaust, the thicker walls of the shaft won't dent and make it unbalanced and dysfunctional, and the D.C. joint allows more functional droop for longer travel set ups. You'll need to get some adjustable arms if you don't have them but you can still get away with up to 4.5 degrees of castor at your lift height. Get cozy with your grease gun make sure you lube the D.C. Joint centering ball every oil change and you won't have a tcase grenade scenario. Can pretty much guarantee that as long as you make sweet love to that DC joint with your grease gun regularly, lol

 

You can put a limiting strap at the differential so you don't make contact with the cross pipe and still allow each side to fully droop out independently.