3" or 4" Lift?
#11
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Coil overs are both shocks and coils in one. They do require removing the old mounts and installing new shock towers in the front and the rears might require a muffler relocate and top mounting bracket. The shock body is threaded and allows you to adjust the height by screwing down the top retainer. If you do look at coil overs, I would recommend using a company that already has them tuned for the jk. Chosing the right vaulving and coil spring rates is very complicated and if you do much research on them it feels like you are taking a physics class. Improperly chosen coils can give you a terriable ride and may even be dangerous. If it is done right they are very impressive off road. High speed off road glide over the bumps and in the rocks the wheels stay planted, I was really impressed with the difference in the rocks.
#12
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OK I'm finally in the market for my 2012 JKU (Dealer is on the hunt for a natural green 6-Speed) and once I get it I plan to lift it right away. I've had plenty of time to do my research and the more I read the more expensive it gets... I plan on using my JKU for mostly recreating (mellow dirt roads to difficult bouldery trails). My plan was a full traction 3" long arm running 35's. The problem lies wherein what if I decide 35's arn't for me and want to go to 37's? Should I just go with the full traction 4" long arm? This will allow me to run 35's then if I choose I can go to 37's alot easier down the road. Any advice and opinions are welcomed as this will be my first Jeep. I know I'm not going to get it right the first time and there is going to be alot of changes, frustration, and $$$ but thats part of the fun being a Jeep owner right?... Thanks for the help!
I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.
If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call
Chris
#13
The 3" kit will allow you to run 35's with factory flares and 37's with flat flares, either bushwacker or cutting your factory.
I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.
If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call
Chris
I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.
If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call
Chris
After lifting it, I went straight to 37'' MTR's; they fit great under the stock flares. Once I upgraded my front and rear bumpers I needed to get some flat flares for the extra clearance. The wife and I go camping a lot; she packs way too much stuff, plus all my trail gear we were riding a little lower than I liked. So I added 1'' Teraflex coil spacers, just for piece of mind.
I want to upgrade to FT's LA Kit, and maybe 4'' coils. But funding and the wife need to approve that first. Unless Chris wants to just gift me a set; I won't object.
#14
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Coil overs are both shocks and coils in one. They do require removing the old mounts and installing new shock towers in the front and the rears might require a muffler relocate and top mounting bracket. The shock body is threaded and allows you to adjust the height by screwing down the top retainer. If you do look at coil overs, I would recommend using a company that already has them tuned for the jk. Chosing the right vaulving and coil spring rates is very complicated and if you do much research on them it feels like you are taking a physics class. Improperly chosen coils can give you a terriable ride and may even be dangerous. If it is done right they are very impressive off road. High speed off road glide over the bumps and in the rocks the wheels stay planted, I was really impressed with the difference in the rocks.
#15
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I've heard that if you stay at 3" or under it won't void your warranty. Not sure if that matters to you but that would be something to look at while deciding. Just a thought.
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The 3" kit will allow you to run 35's with factory flares and 37's with flat flares, either bushwacker or cutting your factory.
I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.
If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call
Chris
I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.
If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call
Chris
#18
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
With the Full Traction 3" long arm kit do you need to get breakline extenders? Also I was looking for some recomendations on which shocks I should get with it? Brands, 2" vs 2.5", and resivoir vs. non-resivoir. Kings look real nice but the price is probably going to be the deciding factor..haha. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#19
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With the Full Traction 3" long arm kit do you need to get breakline extenders? Also I was looking for some recomendations on which shocks I should get with it? Brands, 2" vs 2.5", and resivoir vs. non-resivoir. Kings look real nice but the price is probably going to be the deciding factor..haha. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I would run the bilstein 5100's. its a good shock and will not hurt the wallet.