Originally Posted by TheDirtman

Coil overs are both shocks and coils in one. They do require removing the old mounts and installing new shock towers in the front and the rears might require a muffler relocate and top mounting bracket. The shock body is threaded and allows you to adjust the height by screwing down the top retainer. If you do look at coil overs, I would recommend using a company that already has them tuned for the jk. Chosing the right vaulving and coil spring rates is very complicated and if you do much research on them it feels like you are taking a physics class. Improperly chosen coils can give you a terriable ride and may even be dangerous. If it is done right they are very impressive off road. High speed off road glide over the bumps and in the rocks the wheels stay planted, I was really impressed with the difference in the rocks.

Originally Posted by jesse0920

OK I'm finally in the market for my 2012 JKU (Dealer is on the hunt for a natural green 6-Speed) and once I get it I plan to lift it right away. I've had plenty of time to do my research and the more I read the more expensive it gets... I plan on using my JKU for mostly recreating (mellow dirt roads to difficult bouldery trails). My plan was a full traction 3" long arm running 35's. The problem lies wherein what if I decide 35's arn't for me and want to go to 37's? Should I just go with the full traction 4" long arm? This will allow me to run 35's then if I choose I can go to 37's alot easier down the road. Any advice and opinions are welcomed as this will be my first Jeep. I know I'm not going to get it right the first time and there is going to be alot of changes, frustration, and $$$ but thats part of the fun being a Jeep owner right?... Thanks for the help!

Originally Posted by Full-Traction Suspension

The 3" kit will allow you to run 35's with factory flares and 37's with flat flares, either bushwacker or cutting your factory.

I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.

If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call

Chris

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

Coil overs are both shocks and coils in one. They do require removing the old mounts and installing new shock towers in the front and the rears might require a muffler relocate and top mounting bracket. The shock body is threaded and allows you to adjust the height by screwing down the top retainer. If you do look at coil overs, I would recommend using a company that already has them tuned for the jk. Chosing the right vaulving and coil spring rates is very complicated and if you do much research on them it feels like you are taking a physics class. Improperly chosen coils can give you a terriable ride and may even be dangerous. If it is done right they are very impressive off road. High speed off road glide over the bumps and in the rocks the wheels stay planted, I was really impressed with the difference in the rocks.

Originally Posted by Full-Traction Suspension

The 3" kit will allow you to run 35's with factory flares and 37's with flat flares, either bushwacker or cutting your factory.

I ran the 3" long arm and 35's for well over a year before i switch out to 37's. The bump stops in the 3" kit will work for 35's or 37's.

If you find the 3" kit to short, upgrading is very easy. Its just changing coils, adding trackbar brackets and a pitman arm. Please let me know if you have any questions or give me a call

Chris

Originally Posted by jesse0920

With the Full Traction 3" long arm kit do you need to get breakline extenders? Also I was looking for some recomendations on which shocks I should get with it? Brands, 2" vs 2.5", and resivoir vs. non-resivoir. Kings look real nice but the price is probably going to be the deciding factor..haha. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!