2015 Rubicon JK w 4" Lift & 35s - left pull, squirrelly at speed
#11
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of your input.
I did some Googling on what you said about the drop-Pitman, that all makes more sense now too. Just need to find where to get an original and how to do it.
#12
JK Enthusiast
Makes total sense now. One MORE thing I could do of I welded! There are so many cool things I could do if I had that skill. I need to read up on how to get into that.
Thanks for all of your input.
I did some Googling on what you said about the drop-Pitman, that all makes more sense now too. Just need to find where to get an original and how to do it.
Thanks for all of your input.
I did some Googling on what you said about the drop-Pitman, that all makes more sense now too. Just need to find where to get an original and how to do it.
As for the pitman arm -> https://www.quadratec.com/products/56014_1004.htm
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Centuryhouse (05-31-2022)
#13
Super Moderator
I cannot remember seeing a kink in that bend on the DS LCA like yours when I changed mine out. Looks damaged to me. Is the right one the same? Some advice - see if you can get your nippers on a 2.5" lift and throw the 4". Will solve most of the TC end driveshaft angle as Resharp mentioned. And the broken u-bolt holding half of the SS bracket to the tie rod needs to be replaced.
#14
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
The broken u-bolt was done by me yesterday when I attempted to check all of the various front end nuts / bolts for tightness - it snapped right off with hardly any force. Not sure where to get another unless Lowes / Home Depot has them.
#15
JK Jedi
where are you located in dallas? i have a factory pitman arm you could have, BUT I'm outside the 820 loop west of fort worth and that is likely a haul to my place to save $20-30 on a pitman arm which is what I think they cost. Also, to be very clear, if you go back to a factory pitman arm you would need to flip the drag link to the top of the knuckle which would 1) require a new drag link, 2) require you to drill the knuckle and use a sleeve for the taper. That is not a big deal really. The drag link and track bar need to stay parallel. you could also remove the raised track bar bracket on the axle and go back to the factory mount for the time being while using the factory pitman arm. The only issue with this is at that height the steering angles are pretty sharp. You might experience some bumpsteer when hitting a pot hole or bump. Not sure, it might just be the better option right now given the finances. This might not have been the best purchase given that situation.
#16
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
A new drag link needs to happen once money allows. Lots to think about and I've started a list of eventual changes / upgrades.
#17
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Couldn't the higher caster on the left be resulting in the leftward pull?
Also - I keep reading that people with Nitto Trail Grabbers (which I have) get a leftward pull, even if they rotate the tires. Just thought I'd mention that as I hadn't heard of that previously.
#18
JK Jedi
SmartSteer has a Yeti26 no-drill DL end that replaces just that knuckle end so you can flip it to the top mount. Other companies like Metalcloak and Synergy make a DL that can be mounted in both orientations.
You replaced that steering stabilizer. What did you install there? Your original post noted having experienced positive pressure SS in the past so guessing that is not your case right now. If you removed the SS you're still getting the pull? If you're on a perfectly flat road and let go of the wheel you're veering off pretty quickly?
You replaced that steering stabilizer. What did you install there? Your original post noted having experienced positive pressure SS in the past so guessing that is not your case right now. If you removed the SS you're still getting the pull? If you're on a perfectly flat road and let go of the wheel you're veering off pretty quickly?
#19
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Your original post noted having experienced positive pressure SS in the past so guessing that is not your case right now. If you removed the SS you're still getting the pull? If you're on a perfectly flat road and let go of the wheel you're veering off pretty quickly?
There are times if I shift the wheel enough to the right on a flat road, it will just stay going straight. You have to get the wheel just right for that to happen.
That would make me think something is shifting in the steering but I can't spot anything loose even with someone turning the wheel while I'm under watching the front end. And nothing clunks or *feels* like it is shifting when I move the wheel.