2014 JKU or RIPP my 2008 JKUR
09-06-2014 | 03:55 PM
#11
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 0
From: West Richland Washington
Thanks for the reply. Thought I'd get more, haha.
Well, I went and test drove 2 more Rubicons. 1 manual, and 1 auto. Still didn't like the manual.
But I do not like the new interior, so I'm keeping my 2008. If something happens to this engine, I can afford to replace it. The current engine runs excellent. You'd think it has 80k on it. I'll have to research the boost a bit more. Will it affect the tranny and driveline as well? I don't run my JK hard. Just want a little more punch for these 10,000 foot passes. I have to climb them now in 2nd gear and at 4,000 RPM. I know gears will help, but I'm only at 33x11 right now.
Well, I went and test drove 2 more Rubicons. 1 manual, and 1 auto. Still didn't like the manual.
But I do not like the new interior, so I'm keeping my 2008. If something happens to this engine, I can afford to replace it. The current engine runs excellent. You'd think it has 80k on it. I'll have to research the boost a bit more. Will it affect the tranny and driveline as well? I don't run my JK hard. Just want a little more punch for these 10,000 foot passes. I have to climb them now in 2nd gear and at 4,000 RPM. I know gears will help, but I'm only at 33x11 right now.
09-06-2014 | 05:26 PM
#12
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
I've not installed a SC on a Jeep but I've installed (and fixed MANY other botched installations) many on fox bodied mustangs back in the day. I think what generally holds true is that it's rare that you get a plug and play scenario that never needs to be facked with. The lower the boost, the less wear and more dependable it becomes but then you're defeating the purpose of why you installed it in the first place.
So you need to either have the experience/knowledge of how to tune and troubleshoot or you need a good friend that's readily available for such or deep pockets to pay a shop form time to time. Back then there was an advantage of a pretty simple on board computer system (EEC-IV) but now you're pretty much at the mercy of having to work with Diablo and RIPP, etc. Not a bad thing, but sure takes away from the DIY aspect of tuning.
All this and the (usually) minor inconveniences aren't such a big deal when you drive around town and anywhere you may be you can limp home or worst case, get a tow truck. But I don't want to assume the extra risk/hassle in the middle of nowhere where I wheel and with the fam on board.
Let the "I've had mine for xx,xxx miles and it's always ran great!" posts ensue.....
So you need to either have the experience/knowledge of how to tune and troubleshoot or you need a good friend that's readily available for such or deep pockets to pay a shop form time to time. Back then there was an advantage of a pretty simple on board computer system (EEC-IV) but now you're pretty much at the mercy of having to work with Diablo and RIPP, etc. Not a bad thing, but sure takes away from the DIY aspect of tuning.
All this and the (usually) minor inconveniences aren't such a big deal when you drive around town and anywhere you may be you can limp home or worst case, get a tow truck. But I don't want to assume the extra risk/hassle in the middle of nowhere where I wheel and with the fam on board.
Let the "I've had mine for xx,xxx miles and it's always ran great!" posts ensue.....
09-06-2014 | 07:46 PM
#14
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 605
Likes: 6
From: Golden, CO
I completely agree with you. It would be nice to have an extra 100HP, but at the same time $6000 for the kit is money I will never get back. And let's assume, my engine does get damaged, and I can get a reman/low mile used for $1000, now that's $7000, plus my drivetrain still has 150k. All good things to consider. At the same rate, a new Rubi is $20k more than what I paid for mine. Is that worth it to me? I'm not sure. Best thing really, is to re-gear when I get mount my 35s, and get used to put-putting up the mountain. But if I decide to RIPP the 3.8, I may be contacting you
I've been a CJ guy since I could drive but with a larger family,I needed the space and 4 doors. I held off on the 3.8 because we're at altitude and stories from buddies trying to get over the divide but even though the 3.6 does a better job, it ain't night and day. Especially with 35+ tires and a lot of weight.
09-06-2014 | 09:42 PM
#15
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Hey, we're close by it seems and I would love the opportunity to dick with one of these on someone else's dime. Believe me, I want in the worst way to install one on my 3.6, but for the reasons I've listed ~ that won't be happening. But I gots plenty o' tools....
I've been a CJ guy since I could drive but with a larger family,I needed the space and 4 doors. I held off on the 3.8 because we're at altitude and stories from buddies trying to get over the divide but even though the 3.6 does a better job, it ain't night and day. Especially with 35+ tires and a lot of weight.
I've been a CJ guy since I could drive but with a larger family,I needed the space and 4 doors. I held off on the 3.8 because we're at altitude and stories from buddies trying to get over the divide but even though the 3.6 does a better job, it ain't night and day. Especially with 35+ tires and a lot of weight.
09-07-2014 | 08:38 AM
#16
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 605
Likes: 6
From: Golden, CO
09-07-2014 | 09:22 AM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Texas
2013 jkur
Pentastar of Bust.
I have a 13 JKUR and it's SAAAAWEEEEEEEEET.
Supercharger is next for my 13 JKUR once warranty is gone.
Test drove a 10 manual and 11 auto, both pretty doggy, salesman told me to wait.
And I did, no regrets.
Ernie
I have a 13 JKUR and it's SAAAAWEEEEEEEEET.
Supercharger is next for my 13 JKUR once warranty is gone.
Test drove a 10 manual and 11 auto, both pretty doggy, salesman told me to wait.
And I did, no regrets.
Ernie
09-07-2014 | 01:00 PM
#19
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
I did some research and there is some definite value to the LS swap. I could maybe get into a low mileage engine and tranny for $10-12K, vs the RIPP and a 150k engine for $6k. Maybe a used low mileage 3.8, $1k.
I have the 5.3 in my Tahoe and have been a fan of that engine, since I got it, 7 yrs ago.
09-08-2014 | 03:00 PM
#20
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 2
From: New York
Originally Posted by fredrok
I've not installed a SC on a Jeep but I've installed (and fixed MANY other botched installations) many on fox bodied mustangs back in the day. I think what generally holds true is that it's rare that you get a plug and play scenario that never needs to be facked with. The lower the boost, the less wear and more dependable it becomes but then you're defeating the purpose of why you installed it in the first place.
So you need to either have the experience/knowledge of how to tune and troubleshoot or you need a good friend that's readily available for such or deep pockets to pay a shop form time to time. Back then there was an advantage of a pretty simple on board computer system (EEC-IV) but now you're pretty much at the mercy of having to work with Diablo and RIPP, etc. Not a bad thing, but sure takes away from the DIY aspect of tuning.
All this and the (usually) minor inconveniences aren't such a big deal when you drive around town and anywhere you may be you can limp home or worst case, get a tow truck. But I don't want to assume the extra risk/hassle in the middle of nowhere where I wheel and with the fam on board.
Let the "I've had mine for xx,xxx miles and it's always ran great!" posts ensue.....
I've not installed a SC on a Jeep but I've installed (and fixed MANY other botched installations) many on fox bodied mustangs back in the day. I think what generally holds true is that it's rare that you get a plug and play scenario that never needs to be facked with. The lower the boost, the less wear and more dependable it becomes but then you're defeating the purpose of why you installed it in the first place.
So you need to either have the experience/knowledge of how to tune and troubleshoot or you need a good friend that's readily available for such or deep pockets to pay a shop form time to time. Back then there was an advantage of a pretty simple on board computer system (EEC-IV) but now you're pretty much at the mercy of having to work with Diablo and RIPP, etc. Not a bad thing, but sure takes away from the DIY aspect of tuning.
All this and the (usually) minor inconveniences aren't such a big deal when you drive around town and anywhere you may be you can limp home or worst case, get a tow truck. But I don't want to assume the extra risk/hassle in the middle of nowhere where I wheel and with the fam on board.
Let the "I've had mine for xx,xxx miles and it's always ran great!" posts ensue.....
As far as our tune/calibration is concerned, It is very important to point out that this is a STREET LEGAL system and SMOG compliant with a CARB EO #. With over 4000 RIPP'd JK's out there, our tune speaks for itself.
I completely agree with you. It would be nice to have an extra 100HP, but at the same time $6000 for the kit is money I will never get back. And let's assume, my engine does get damaged, and I can get a reman/low mile used for $1000, now that's $7000, plus my drivetrain still has 150k. All good things to consider. At the same rate, a new Rubi is $20k more than what I paid for mine. Is that worth it to me? I'm not sure. Best thing really, is to re-gear when I get mount my 35s, and get used to put-putting up the mountain. But if I decide to RIPP the 3.8, I may be contacting you
Do a leak down test to check pressures in cylinders and that'll tell ya if you should boost it or not. I guarantee there are ppl with 20000 miles that have worse engines than those with 150k. To many variables to tell you if it's ok over the Internet if your engine can hold up
Will do!
I did some research and there is some definite value to the LS swap. I could maybe get into a low mileage engine and tranny for $10-12K, vs the RIPP and a 150k engine for $6k. Maybe a used low mileage 3.8, $1k.
I have the 5.3 in my Tahoe and have been a fan of that engine, since I got it, 7 yrs ago.
I did some research and there is some definite value to the LS swap. I could maybe get into a low mileage engine and tranny for $10-12K, vs the RIPP and a 150k engine for $6k. Maybe a used low mileage 3.8, $1k.
I have the 5.3 in my Tahoe and have been a fan of that engine, since I got it, 7 yrs ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87CkeT6WSg4 IF you are considering a V8, understand that 5.3L "LS" (Manufacturer rated between 300-320HP) will net you between 210-230 WHP. Food for thought.
Questions welcome.
RIPP