2014 Jeep build decisions- Preferences?
03-08-2014 | 03:55 PM
#1
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Arizona
2014 Jeep build decisions- Preferences?
By the end of this year I will be buying and having the dealership build my 2014 Wrangler Sport Unlimited. I've summed up my decisions on what setup i May run and I'm looking for as much criticism as possible, I'm trying to keep the loan under $42k, so here is the list of what I've added in my price range:
- Black or White 2014/13 Jeep JKU Sport (Base model with only Automatic and 3.73 gears added) and Black hard top
-17x9 Mickey Thompson Classic Baja Locks (4.5" backspacing)
-38x13.5r17 Yokohama Geolander M/T Plus Tires (Yes they are 38's but they weigh only 80LBS in comparison to the toyo mt 37's that i believe weigh even more)
-1.5" Wheel spacers to bring my backspacing to 3"
-3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor Mid Arm Kit with Bilstein 5100 Shocks
-Tom Woods 1310 Front CV Driveshaft
-Synergy Dana 30 Axle SLeeves as well as C-gusset upper and lower
-front and rear 4.88 ring and pinion
-Body Armor 4x4 rear high clearance bumper + Tire Carrier (Textured Black)
- bushwacker Flat Fender Flares
-Smittybilt Front SRC Stinger bumper 9Textured Black)
-AEV High Steer Kit with OME heavy duty Steering Stabilizer
Also, I may just keep stock Fenders and Trim them to save the 600 instead of the bushwhackers. Any one have a rough estimate on install prices for all this?
- Black or White 2014/13 Jeep JKU Sport (Base model with only Automatic and 3.73 gears added) and Black hard top
-17x9 Mickey Thompson Classic Baja Locks (4.5" backspacing)
-38x13.5r17 Yokohama Geolander M/T Plus Tires (Yes they are 38's but they weigh only 80LBS in comparison to the toyo mt 37's that i believe weigh even more)
-1.5" Wheel spacers to bring my backspacing to 3"
-3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor Mid Arm Kit with Bilstein 5100 Shocks
-Tom Woods 1310 Front CV Driveshaft
-Synergy Dana 30 Axle SLeeves as well as C-gusset upper and lower
-front and rear 4.88 ring and pinion
-Body Armor 4x4 rear high clearance bumper + Tire Carrier (Textured Black)
- bushwacker Flat Fender Flares
-Smittybilt Front SRC Stinger bumper 9Textured Black)
-AEV High Steer Kit with OME heavy duty Steering Stabilizer
Also, I may just keep stock Fenders and Trim them to save the 600 instead of the bushwhackers. Any one have a rough estimate on install prices for all this?
Last edited by Relic; 03-08-2014 at 10:12 PM. Reason: Changed Ideas/ Update
03-08-2014 | 04:10 PM
#2
JK Freak
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 577
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
By the end of this year I will be buying and having the dealership build my 2014 Wrangler Sport Unlimited. I've summed up my decisions on what setup i May run and I'm looking for as much criticism as possible, I'm trying to keep the loan under $42k, so here is the list of what I've added in my price range:
- Black or White 2014/13 Jeep JKU Sport (Base model with only Automatic and 3.73 gears added) and Black hard top
-17x9 Mickey Thompson Classic Baja Locks (4.5" backspacing)
-38x13.5r17 Yokohama Geolander M/T Plus Tires
-1.5" Wheel spacers to bring my backspacing to 3"
-4.5" AEV lift, only because it will be for Long road trips and wheeling that it should be capable of (no absolute axle-pounding crawling) I'll upgrade to rock crawler when i get the balls to risk my newest investment.
-Tom Woods 1310 Front CV Driveshaft
-Artec front Axle Armor Kit for the front Dana 30 (Black widow Jeep jk Used this and did quite well, like i said, I'm easy with the skinny pedal)
-Nitro 4.88 Gear Kit Front and Rear (i think its what i need to regear to 4.88) Yes i prefer 4.88 over 5.13. Also the tires I'm using are 87lbs
-Body Armor 4x4 rear high clearance bumper + Tire Carrier (Textured Black)
- Xenon Flat Fender Flares
-Smittybilt Front SRC Stinger bumper 9Textured Black)
I know there are a lot of AEV haters out there, But i have faith in them at least until i upgrade to either the Rock Krawler or Clayton Lift kits.
- Black or White 2014/13 Jeep JKU Sport (Base model with only Automatic and 3.73 gears added) and Black hard top
-17x9 Mickey Thompson Classic Baja Locks (4.5" backspacing)
-38x13.5r17 Yokohama Geolander M/T Plus Tires
-1.5" Wheel spacers to bring my backspacing to 3"
-4.5" AEV lift, only because it will be for Long road trips and wheeling that it should be capable of (no absolute axle-pounding crawling) I'll upgrade to rock crawler when i get the balls to risk my newest investment.
-Tom Woods 1310 Front CV Driveshaft
-Artec front Axle Armor Kit for the front Dana 30 (Black widow Jeep jk Used this and did quite well, like i said, I'm easy with the skinny pedal)
-Nitro 4.88 Gear Kit Front and Rear (i think its what i need to regear to 4.88) Yes i prefer 4.88 over 5.13. Also the tires I'm using are 87lbs
-Body Armor 4x4 rear high clearance bumper + Tire Carrier (Textured Black)
- Xenon Flat Fender Flares
-Smittybilt Front SRC Stinger bumper 9Textured Black)
I know there are a lot of AEV haters out there, But i have faith in them at least until i upgrade to either the Rock Krawler or Clayton Lift kits.
03-08-2014 | 05:27 PM
#3
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 11
From: Olympia, WA
Two comments -
First , the choice of AEV is a good one because the Jeep will handle well on the hwy. Could be important to re-think the height however. A lower lift with the right fenders will probably give you plenty of tire clearance and better handling for road trips, which brings me to the second comment -
Read this post by dirtman before you decide anything: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/
If you are still in doubt, talk to dirtman. Far as I can tell he's a real good guy and very knowledgeable about Wrangler suspensions.
First , the choice of AEV is a good one because the Jeep will handle well on the hwy. Could be important to re-think the height however. A lower lift with the right fenders will probably give you plenty of tire clearance and better handling for road trips, which brings me to the second comment -
Read this post by dirtman before you decide anything: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/
If you are still in doubt, talk to dirtman. Far as I can tell he's a real good guy and very knowledgeable about Wrangler suspensions.
03-08-2014 | 07:23 PM
#4
JK Junkie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,539
Likes: 2
From: Tempe AZ
add a drag link and tie rod to that list, and have them replace the ball joints while theyre building the front axle. The stock BJ's and TRE's are crap and are going to fail quickly with those tires. And don't use an AEV drag link. Its a factory right hand drive unit and will experience the same wear issues.
03-08-2014 | 07:26 PM
#5
JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 2
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
ill be the asshole that asks do you actually need 38s and especially on a d30.
if you must, id personally not get fenders or the bumpers and get chromolly shafts, i broke the fronts and bent both rear flanges on 35s.
if you must, id personally not get fenders or the bumpers and get chromolly shafts, i broke the fronts and bent both rear flanges on 35s.
03-08-2014 | 07:47 PM
#6
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 348
Likes: 3
From: Boise, Idaho
Waste of money regearing a Dana 30. Buy a Rubi.
Skip the AEV with plans to upgrade and just go with Metal Cloak. Ride quality plus crawl ability.
Skip the AEV with plans to upgrade and just go with Metal Cloak. Ride quality plus crawl ability.
Last edited by Roryslife; 03-08-2014 at 07:55 PM.
03-08-2014 | 10:05 PM
#7
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Arizona
I checked out Metal cloak, yet hear of a lot more reviews on the Rock Krawler 3.5 Mid arm x factor, so I've changed Status to that. I was originally planning on going with the rubi, but I knew I'd be rebuilding it a lot more later on, I just want these parts to get me by until it's payed off. In the future it'll be getting dana 60's and probably a 5.7L hemi (My excuse of instead of buying a new vehicle, make my current vehicle new)
Last edited by Relic; 03-08-2014 at 10:16 PM.
Trending Topics
03-08-2014 | 10:07 PM
#8
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Arizona
add a drag link and tie rod to that list, and have them replace the ball joints while theyre building the front axle. The stock BJ's and TRE's are crap and are going to fail quickly with those tires. And don't use an AEV drag link. Its a factory right hand drive unit and will experience the same wear issues.
03-08-2014 | 10:25 PM
#9
JK Junkie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,539
Likes: 2
From: Tempe AZ
03-09-2014 | 08:41 AM
#10
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: huntington beach CA
My suggestion is to do 90% of the mods on your list with a buddy in your (or his) garage! Dealerships typically charge stupid amounts of money for basic labor, and the more you get under your jeep the more you will understand how everything works.
