2012s with 3-4" lifts
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2012s with 3-4" lifts
Originally Posted by FAQs;
Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
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For you '12 owners with 3 or 4" of lift, aside from doing the exhaust spacer mod is a front driveshaft needed as well? With that much lift how is the angle of your DS U-joints...Contemplating whether I should go with a 2.5" coil lift with a 1" body lift or a 3.5" coil lift to run 35" tires. Thanks.
Last edited by wayoflife; 01-29-2012 at 09:03 PM.
#4
JK Super Freak
Lifting 2012 = PITA
Teraflex has a video on youtube for their exhaust spacer kit install. If you watch that video, it will make it quite clear why exhaust and drive line modifications are required in the 2012.
pretty much, if youre going to lift past 2.5" you absolutely DO need a new front drive shaft and id recommend the new AFE Y-Pipe over the spacers.
pretty much, if youre going to lift past 2.5" you absolutely DO need a new front drive shaft and id recommend the new AFE Y-Pipe over the spacers.
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This topic is killing me too. Getting ready to lift my 12' jku auto. I bought a 3.5" lift and have heard about 50/50 on having to change the front ds. I have bugged the heck out of the lift manufacture about needing a front ds. Every time they reassure me I don't need one if I don't do any moderate to extreme flexing and also never plan on disconnecting my sway bar links. Its hard to say it lol, but this is a true mall crawler. So I guess what I'm saying, your driving style may let you get away with the stock shafts. I for one am going to chance it. Really what's it matter if in a year I have to purchase an after market one because the stock one starts having issues. why purchase one right now. Who knows, plenty of guys on here haven't had a single issue. That being said, I'm going into this whole lift experience with the notion I may need to replace the front ds one day. Good luck buddy
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Several lift kit manufacturers that sponsor this forum have told me, that you can leave the exhaust alone and just get an aftermarket front driveshaft. The 1310s are smaller in diameter and will allow you to have 3 inches of lift and fully articulate your suspension provided you use the appropriate shocks to limit travel.
The AFE crossover looks to work fine, but I don't like the exhaust being so close to the fuel lines...even with that magic heat tape they provide.
If the Jeep is just going to be a mall crawler, I'd almost consider just removing the front drive shaft entirely since it won't be used.
The AFE crossover looks to work fine, but I don't like the exhaust being so close to the fuel lines...even with that magic heat tape they provide.
If the Jeep is just going to be a mall crawler, I'd almost consider just removing the front drive shaft entirely since it won't be used.
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I have the TF 4" kit running 37's on my '12. I have a coast DS sitting in my garage, but haven't had any problems with the stock DS yet. I am sure it will fail eventually, but I have a replacement ready. TF told me to just run my stock ds.
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Originally Posted by aldaman
For you '12 owners with 3 or 4" of lift, aside from doing the exhaust spacer mod is a front driveshaft needed as well? With that much lift how is the angle of your DS U-joints...Contemplating whether I should go with a 2.5" coil lift with a 1" body lift or a 3.5" coil lift to run 35" tires. Thanks.
#9
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I've got a 12 unlimited manual with 2.5" coils and 1" coil spacers. The front ds angle is enough to put a new shaft on the top of my list of next mods. Sitting on flat ground its close, I'm sure any real flexing on the trail will tear the boot. It does look like I can forgo the exhaust spacers for now though.