fredrok

Well, for 35s and mainly on road with towing, I'd recommend a 2.5" lift. No more than 3.5" for sure and anything more than 2.5" and you need/should get into high steering kits, etc. to keep the geometry correct and adjustable control arms to maintain proper camber and pinion angles. To avoid all of that (especially if you don't need it) stay with a 2.5" kit. Lower CG would be better for towing anyway.

I run Rock Krawler and just installed another yesterday for a friend (2.5" stock mod), but AEV gets good reviews here, Metalcloak, some others. A quick research here will reveal a lot.

tarpon4me

I'd personally stay away from a 4" lift. Go 2.5 and run your 35's. PLENTY of room. I've got plenty of room for 35's and I have a 2" lift and stock fenders. Flat fenders and I could easily run and stuff 37's with the proper wheel backspacing. KNowing there is a 72 pound 37" tire on the market now, that might be exactly what I do when my 33's wear out.

WildRider82

Thanks to this thread I think I have it figured out to a RK 2.5" (stock mod) that I can upgrade later, 35" MTR Kev tires that I'll probably upgrade to 37" when I have the money to throw flats on there, and 4.88 gears that if I've read everything correctly should be fine for both 35" and 37" tires unless I'm missing something.

fredrok

I've installed many RK kits with very few issues. It'd be my recommendation and a wise decision IMO. Since you'll run 35s and maybe 37s down the road and you'll need some small welding on the new rear track bar mount, you may as well burn on some C gussets too to do the job right and save your camber. It's personal preference, but I also like to change in new, longer brake lines although you don't have to; you can modify your current stock mounts for the additional drop.

I used to run Bilsteins but have new love for the Rancho RS9000XLs; I think those and the RK springs are a great combo.

Eric at Offroadelements.com always takes good care of me. He's up your way too. (Mass. I think)

nthinuf

Good call on the shorter lift and future flat flares for if/when you go to 37's.

I went with the 3.5" metalcloak coils, and would have been much better off with their 2.5". Got a ton of clearance between my 37's and stock fenders.

fredrok

FWIW, the 2.5 stock mod I installed this weekend went on a stock '10 Rubi Unlimited and yielded 3 1/4" in front and 2 1/4" in back; it sits perfectly level now (within 1/4"). He opted to go with 33s so there's a bit more space between flares. Don't forget to check/measure for bumpstops during install. Hockey pucks are cheap and handy for front (and you could do rear) but I like to use RK rear stops.