neelylb

I have read thread after thread on this subject but want to make sure there's not updated options or something I've missed. I've gotta 2012 JK auto with teraflex 2.5" lift, bilstein 5100's, and 33" duratracs with stock control arms and driveshaft. I though the only major worry with lifting the newer models was contact between front driveshaft boot and exhaust crossover, which was fixed by the teraflex exhaust spacer. Been hearing this chirp for a couple months that I couldn't pinpoint, had been kinda scratching my head until I noticed the grease sling around front driveshaft by transfer case. I don't see any tears or damage to the boot but as I have read it may not be evident until removal. Im gonna attempt to get dealership to fix it under warranty but know how that goes. Never heard of a rezeppa joint before now but apparently it cant handle the extreme angle. Regardless whether they fix/replace it under warranty, obviously I need to do something long term. Firstly, is it safe to remove front driveshaft and continue to drive it for the time being or should I just leave it in? Who makes the best quality : reasonable cost front drive shaft and what style (1310?)? Also, do I really need adjustable control arms and why or why not? Front and rear both or just one end if so?

nthinuf

Yes, you are fine to drive without the front driveshaft. And assuming there is still grease in the joint, fine to continue driving with it installed. (but you said you were hearing a noise? Like a dried out joint from all of the grease being spit out?? Go ahead and remove it...)

For the most part, an aftermarket driveshaft is an aftermarket driveshaft. Compare price and warranty and get whatever you want. Things to look for are replacement yokes vs adapter plates, and the specific joints used. Adapter plates will let you just bolt it up. New yokes will involve more work. Some joints are greasable and tend to last longer since you can flush out the offroad junk, others are sealed and may need to be replaced more often. Also note that with greasable joints, you will actually need to remove the driveshaft to get to some of the zerks. (as far as I know, there is no non-greasable center ball, so even if the other 3 joints are sealed you still need to drop the shaft for that one)

Aftermarket joints need different angles than stock joints. For stock, you want the pinion to be roughly parallel to the tcase output. For aftermarket, you want the pinion pointed up at the output. Which means a set of adj arms to tilt the housing. Up front, there is also a tradeoff between caster and pinion. Should not be an issue at your lift height, but knowing that caster and pinion are directly affected by each other is good to know. (when the caster goes up, the pinion goes down. When the pinion goes up, the caster goes down. It's automatic.)


When you get some time, go out to Tom Woods driveshaft website. Lots of great information in both the JK and Tech Info areas.

Billbikes

You might be able to find a takeoff driveshaft to replace yours, and get by for a while.
I doubt you'll get yours warrantied, but who knows.
I run an Adams and have no complaints.

neelylb

Thanks for all the info!!! I'll check that site out to read up on pinion and castor for sure. Sounds like regardless which route I go I def need those adjustable arms. Didn't realize how much of a factor they played outside of stability.