BigMAK1

My allignment shop says they can correct it with an adjustable ball joint on one side. Recommendations? It's very slight just enough to annoy me on longish road drives.

Also wondering if I should do both sides to upgrade them and anything else that should be done?

Build list/stuff is in link on my sig.

mkjeep

Post up your alinement readout. If you need an adj ball joint then one of your C's or your housing is bent. It'll show your camber outta spec on the readout if this is the prob.

BigMAK1

Allignment readout:

..............Left Front....Right Front
Camber......-0.5............-0.3
Caster.........3.6.............3.8
Toe............0.10............0.09

Per Spec Caster range Left is 3.2->5.2 and Caster range Right is 3.4->5.4 so it seems like I'm on the low side of spec. Allignment shop says to adjust it at all an adjustable ball joint is needed.

Since it was never wheeled stock and I have gussetted the C's (upper and lower) and sleeved the axle so I really doubt they're bent. It's had the slight left pull since lifting and putting on the bigger tires.

I can't help but think it's being over-thought and perhaps the upper and lower control arms just need to be reset. I.e. since it has a slight left pull couldn't that simply mean I need to turn the upper and lower right (passenger) arms in a little so it doesn't push left - or alternatively turn the left (driver's) side out a little? It tracks straight but makes logical sense to me (a non-allignment person) that even a slight length difference left or right can cause a push one direction.

rds4129

did you upgrade the steering stabilizer when you put on the lift. I have read about some with the bilstein stabilizer experiencing a pull to the left.

Bubbacon

As rds mentions... If you installed a gas charged steering stabilizer it may be your culprit. The Bilstein are notorious for this because as gas charged the natural 'resting state' of the shock (ss) will be about 2" past the mounting bracket. When you install it, you have to compress back 2"... And it therefore has a natural tendency to extend... The result being a left pull.

I would check this before ball joints as its easy and takes about 10 min. If you installed aftermarket ss, remove it (not needed for driving)... Give it a test drive and see if it still pulls. If so, you can reinstall the stock, or the aftermarket... If you can live w it.

BHawks4Life

You don't need adjustable ball joints. Your camber is good. If you want to increase your caster get adjustable lower control arms, if you already got em then adjust them out.

BigMAK1

Stock SS.

All control arms are adjustable so I'll go that route before throwing parts at it.

It's very mild, mild enough I can easily live with it. But being a picky person when it comes to my vehicels if I can get it spot-on I'd really like to.

BigMAK1

Driver's side lower control arm is at 33 5/8" and Passenger's side lower control arm is at 34 1/8".

WTH?

I had it -WAY- closer then that before it went in for it's allignment after the lift.

I think I know the culprit - this would definitely cause left push imo. I'll adjust the driver's side lower out 3/8" tonight or tomorrow. Actually I'm surprised it isn't more severe. Guess I'll allow for nuance in the bracket mounting location and go about a quarter inch and see how it drives.

mkjeep

I would guess this is the prob, your camber is in spec, so u don't need an adj ball joint. Don't go to that shop anymore, in fact, I'd get my money back if I were u. They're stupid fuc%ers!

KenB1010

Check and make sure that your axle is centered to the vehicle. A track bar adjustment to center my axle fixed this problem for me. Your camber is slightly low, but that would cause flighty steering not a pull.

Your control arms should be the same length. Remember adjusting them will also change your camber.