2000lb trailer need Ebrakes?
#1
2000lb trailer need Ebrakes?
I have a 09 JKU Rubi Auto with the tow package (hitch and 4pin) and will be towing my off-road trailer on the weekends. Fully loaded my trailer comes in at about 2000lbs. I am look to switch out the axels to Dexter 3500's. Do you guys think it is necessary to run e brakes, brake control and a 7 pin harness for only 2000lbs. I am not taking this into the mountains and i figured with ebrakes it may get a little tricky from an off-road perspective. I would love your thoughts.
#2
If you are swapping the axle anyways, might as well. You can adjust how the brakes grab, hard to almost nothing. I could see it being a benefit offroad. If going downhill and the trailer wants to come around on you, you can engage the brakes on the trailer separately.
To answer, you should be fine without, but the expense should not be much since you are swapping axle already.
To answer, you should be fine without, but the expense should not be much since you are swapping axle already.
#3
If you are swapping the axle anyways, might as well. You can adjust how the brakes grab, hard to almost nothing. I could see it being a benefit offroad. If going downhill and the trailer wants to come around on you, you can engage the brakes on the trailer separately.
To answer, you should be fine without, but the expense should not be much since you are swapping axle already.
To answer, you should be fine without, but the expense should not be much since you are swapping axle already.
#4
Controller is ~$100 wiring is fairly easy. Took about an hour to wire.
I tapped the factory 4-way for most everything. Ran power and brake wire from the front. Power off the battery with double fuses. You don't *have* to run the 12v power back there, but might as well.
7-pin with 4-way combo was about $20 from Wally world that has about 8" of length on the wiring. Used a hole saw into the factory bumper and ran the wires through it and spliced into the 4-way. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you some photos of what I did. Looks fairly factory and stays out if the way off-road.
Either way, as most will say, do it once, do it right. So get the axle with brakes and do the controller, etc later on. At least you will have the option.
I tapped the factory 4-way for most everything. Ran power and brake wire from the front. Power off the battery with double fuses. You don't *have* to run the 12v power back there, but might as well.
7-pin with 4-way combo was about $20 from Wally world that has about 8" of length on the wiring. Used a hole saw into the factory bumper and ran the wires through it and spliced into the 4-way. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you some photos of what I did. Looks fairly factory and stays out if the way off-road.
Either way, as most will say, do it once, do it right. So get the axle with brakes and do the controller, etc later on. At least you will have the option.
#6
It is always safer to have breaks. You may not need them for a controlled stop but you may for when someone cuts you off and you have to swerve and hit your breaks. The last thing you need is that thing coming around and putting you on your side.
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#8
Great stuff guys. The axels/hubs for jk and brakes are about 400 installed. They are charging me 250 for the brake control. I really do not want a ton of wires running through the rig...I prefer to keep things simple. Thanks for the input
#9
Also, check out r v wholesalers dot com for great pricing on controllers. Prodigy controllers rock!
Yoke
#10
Yoke