2 Door 2" stretch????
11-29-2016, 04:29 PM
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Albany
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2 Door 2" stretch????
Does anybody know what all is involved with a rear 2" stretch? As far as know i just need rear upper and lower adjustable control arms.. do i need an adjustable rear trackbar or should my stock one work? Any help would be great... thanks.
BTW... 2014 2 door JK, JKUR coils and shocks are the only suspension mod i have currently.
BTW... 2014 2 door JK, JKUR coils and shocks are the only suspension mod i have currently.
11-29-2016, 04:49 PM
#2
JK Junkie
Moving the rear back that much will be meaningless.
Either move it an inch for bigger tires or chop out the rear to move it back 8-10, but that is a bit of a waste.
You'll have contact with your sway bar in the back, have to move the track bar bracket on the frame side back, and possibly have to reroute your exhaust depending on what your end goal is.
Either move it an inch for bigger tires or chop out the rear to move it back 8-10, but that is a bit of a waste.
You'll have contact with your sway bar in the back, have to move the track bar bracket on the frame side back, and possibly have to reroute your exhaust depending on what your end goal is.
12-05-2016, 11:40 AM
#3
JK Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm actually planning to do this myself on my '12 2-door to get the rear wheels a bit more centered in the wheel well visually. They were already moved back 1" after installing MetalCloak control arms, but a lot more has to be done to move it another 1".
Moving the rear axle back more than 1" your shocks are going to start rubbing the track bar bracket. This can be fixed with Synergy's Upper Shock Mount Relocation Brackets that move the upper shock mounts back and up. You'll have to get longer rear shocks now, but make sure they're mono-tube or at least narrow diameter.
But then the re-located shocks will interfere with the rear sway bar so you'll have to move those back as well. Synergy's brackets above have an optional sway bar relocation bracket but it's +$35 for two small Al tapped bars. I didn't like that they also moved the sway bars DOWN and back. Instead I'm just gonna tap a hole into the frame for a 3/8"-16 bolt (the size of the sway bar bracket hole) so the first sway bar bracket hole lines up with the second hole in the frame and the new tapped hole will be for the second sway bar bracket fastener.
But you can't move the rear sway bar back without getting rid of the OEM muffler. Fortunately, there's a built in clamp that attaches the OEM muffler to the exhaust pipe above the sway bar that can be screwed loose. Good luck working off the rubber muffler isolators, make sure to have a long crowbar handy. Also, if you go this route the exhaust will pool around under the chassis and make it's way into the cabin, if you're worried about that kind of thing. An aftermarket exhaust like from Magnaflow would probably work. Make sure it's low clearance or get a cat-back only instead of an axle-back.
An alternative to ditching the stock muffler is getting a rear sway bar 4" relocation bracket that moves the sway bar back but WAY down under the OEM muffler such as this one from MetalCloak. But you'll need to have at least a 3.5" lift or it'll position the sway bar too low.
I haven't worked out what else will have to be changed past this point, but good luck on your journey! No one that sees it will have any idea how hard you worked to get it unless they've done it themselves.
Edit: Dammit! I just read SA's post and he said exactly what I said but in way fewer words. At least that confirms this is the truth and can't be avoided.
Moving the rear axle back more than 1" your shocks are going to start rubbing the track bar bracket. This can be fixed with Synergy's Upper Shock Mount Relocation Brackets that move the upper shock mounts back and up. You'll have to get longer rear shocks now, but make sure they're mono-tube or at least narrow diameter.
But then the re-located shocks will interfere with the rear sway bar so you'll have to move those back as well. Synergy's brackets above have an optional sway bar relocation bracket but it's +$35 for two small Al tapped bars. I didn't like that they also moved the sway bars DOWN and back. Instead I'm just gonna tap a hole into the frame for a 3/8"-16 bolt (the size of the sway bar bracket hole) so the first sway bar bracket hole lines up with the second hole in the frame and the new tapped hole will be for the second sway bar bracket fastener.
But you can't move the rear sway bar back without getting rid of the OEM muffler. Fortunately, there's a built in clamp that attaches the OEM muffler to the exhaust pipe above the sway bar that can be screwed loose. Good luck working off the rubber muffler isolators, make sure to have a long crowbar handy. Also, if you go this route the exhaust will pool around under the chassis and make it's way into the cabin, if you're worried about that kind of thing. An aftermarket exhaust like from Magnaflow would probably work. Make sure it's low clearance or get a cat-back only instead of an axle-back.
An alternative to ditching the stock muffler is getting a rear sway bar 4" relocation bracket that moves the sway bar back but WAY down under the OEM muffler such as this one from MetalCloak. But you'll need to have at least a 3.5" lift or it'll position the sway bar too low.
I haven't worked out what else will have to be changed past this point, but good luck on your journey! No one that sees it will have any idea how hard you worked to get it unless they've done it themselves.
Edit: Dammit! I just read SA's post and he said exactly what I said but in way fewer words. At least that confirms this is the truth and can't be avoided.
Last edited by Vintage; 12-05-2016 at 11:43 AM.
12-06-2016, 12:49 PM
#5
JK Super Freak
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Covington-ish, WA
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with Dirtman. I'd recommend to move the axle back 1'' just to center the tire better in the wheel well and call it good. I originally moved my axle back about 1.5" and noticed my first trip out that the torque arm bolt would hit the bumpstop pad on the axle with any decent bump/flex/etc.
If you're trying to gain 2" of wheelbase you can move the rear back 1" and the front forward 1" without any real "work."
If you're trying to gain 2" of wheelbase you can move the rear back 1" and the front forward 1" without any real "work."
Last edited by mdash; 12-06-2016 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Life's ruff, get a dog.
12-06-2016, 03:06 PM
#6
JK Super Freak
I agree with Dirtman. I'd recommend to move the axle back 1'' just to center the tire better in the wheel well and call it good. I originally moved my axle back about 1.5" and noticed my first trip out that the torque arm bolt would hit the bumpstop pad on the axle with any decent bump/flex/etc. If you're trying to gain 2" of wheelbase you can move the rear back 1" and the front forward 1" without any real "work."
12-06-2016, 03:53 PM
#7
I'll be installing my 3" rear stretch in the next 2-3 weeks. I'll let you know. There are differing opinions out there on this topic. I personally am in favor for the rear stretch rather than the front. We will see. I'll try to remember to post up my feedback.
What's involved? Some rear arms and brackets, frame side trackbar bracket relocation, full corners. Longer driveshaft some body cutting. Coil perch relocation,bumpstops
Depends what your starting from to be honest.
Check out the rock krawler 3" stretch and crawler concepts corners
What's involved? Some rear arms and brackets, frame side trackbar bracket relocation, full corners. Longer driveshaft some body cutting. Coil perch relocation,bumpstops
Depends what your starting from to be honest.
Check out the rock krawler 3" stretch and crawler concepts corners
Last edited by Wrangeler X; 12-06-2016 at 03:58 PM.
Trending Topics
12-06-2016, 07:33 PM
#8
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Albany
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm actually planning to do this myself on my '12 2-door to get the rear wheels a bit more centered in the wheel well visually. They were already moved back 1" after installing MetalCloak control arms, but a lot more has to be done to move it another 1".
Moving the rear axle back more than 1" your shocks are going to start rubbing the track bar bracket. This can be fixed with Synergy's Upper Shock Mount Relocation Brackets that move the upper shock mounts back and up. You'll have to get longer rear shocks now, but make sure they're mono-tube or at least narrow diameter.
But then the re-located shocks will interfere with the rear sway bar so you'll have to move those back as well. Synergy's brackets above have an optional sway bar relocation bracket but it's +$35 for two small Al tapped bars. I didn't like that they also moved the sway bars DOWN and back. Instead I'm just gonna tap a hole into the frame for a 3/8"-16 bolt (the size of the sway bar bracket hole) so the first sway bar bracket hole lines up with the second hole in the frame and the new tapped hole will be for the second sway bar bracket fastener.
But you can't move the rear sway bar back without getting rid of the OEM muffler. Fortunately, there's a built in clamp that attaches the OEM muffler to the exhaust pipe above the sway bar that can be screwed loose. Good luck working off the rubber muffler isolators, make sure to have a long crowbar handy. Also, if you go this route the exhaust will pool around under the chassis and make it's way into the cabin, if you're worried about that kind of thing. An aftermarket exhaust like from Magnaflow would probably work. Make sure it's low clearance or get a cat-back only instead of an axle-back.
An alternative to ditching the stock muffler is getting a rear sway bar 4" relocation bracket that moves the sway bar back but WAY down under the OEM muffler such as this one from MetalCloak. But you'll need to have at least a 3.5" lift or it'll position the sway bar too low.
I haven't worked out what else will have to be changed past this point, but good luck on your journey! No one that sees it will have any idea how hard you worked to get it unless they've done it themselves.
Edit: Dammit! I just read SA's post and he said exactly what I said but in way fewer words. At least that confirms this is the truth and can't be avoided.
Moving the rear axle back more than 1" your shocks are going to start rubbing the track bar bracket. This can be fixed with Synergy's Upper Shock Mount Relocation Brackets that move the upper shock mounts back and up. You'll have to get longer rear shocks now, but make sure they're mono-tube or at least narrow diameter.
But then the re-located shocks will interfere with the rear sway bar so you'll have to move those back as well. Synergy's brackets above have an optional sway bar relocation bracket but it's +$35 for two small Al tapped bars. I didn't like that they also moved the sway bars DOWN and back. Instead I'm just gonna tap a hole into the frame for a 3/8"-16 bolt (the size of the sway bar bracket hole) so the first sway bar bracket hole lines up with the second hole in the frame and the new tapped hole will be for the second sway bar bracket fastener.
But you can't move the rear sway bar back without getting rid of the OEM muffler. Fortunately, there's a built in clamp that attaches the OEM muffler to the exhaust pipe above the sway bar that can be screwed loose. Good luck working off the rubber muffler isolators, make sure to have a long crowbar handy. Also, if you go this route the exhaust will pool around under the chassis and make it's way into the cabin, if you're worried about that kind of thing. An aftermarket exhaust like from Magnaflow would probably work. Make sure it's low clearance or get a cat-back only instead of an axle-back.
An alternative to ditching the stock muffler is getting a rear sway bar 4" relocation bracket that moves the sway bar back but WAY down under the OEM muffler such as this one from MetalCloak. But you'll need to have at least a 3.5" lift or it'll position the sway bar too low.
I haven't worked out what else will have to be changed past this point, but good luck on your journey! No one that sees it will have any idea how hard you worked to get it unless they've done it themselves.
Edit: Dammit! I just read SA's post and he said exactly what I said but in way fewer words. At least that confirms this is the truth and can't be avoided.
I agree with Dirtman. I'd recommend to move the axle back 1'' just to center the tire better in the wheel well and call it good. I originally moved my axle back about 1.5" and noticed my first trip out that the torque arm bolt would hit the bumpstop pad on the axle with any decent bump/flex/etc.
If you're trying to gain 2" of wheelbase you can move the rear back 1" and the front forward 1" without any real "work."
If you're trying to gain 2" of wheelbase you can move the rear back 1" and the front forward 1" without any real "work."
I'll be installing my 3" rear stretch in the next 2-3 weeks. I'll let you know. There are differing opinions out there on this topic. I personally am in favor for the rear stretch rather than the front. We will see. I'll try to remember to post up my feedback.
What's involved? Some rear arms and brackets, frame side trackbar bracket relocation, full corners. Longer driveshaft some body cutting. Coil perch relocation,bumpstops
Depends what your starting from to be honest.
Check out the rock krawler 3" stretch and crawler concepts corners
What's involved? Some rear arms and brackets, frame side trackbar bracket relocation, full corners. Longer driveshaft some body cutting. Coil perch relocation,bumpstops
Depends what your starting from to be honest.
Check out the rock krawler 3" stretch and crawler concepts corners
12-06-2016, 07:50 PM
#9
I'll be installing my 3" rear stretch in the next 2-3 weeks. I'll let you know. There are differing opinions out there on this topic. I personally am in favor for the rear stretch rather than the front. We will see. I'll try to remember to post up my feedback.
What's involved? Some rear arms and brackets, frame side trackbar bracket relocation, full corners. Longer driveshaft some body cutting. Coil perch relocation,bumpstops
Depends what your starting from to be honest.
Check out the rock krawler 3" stretch and crawler concepts corners
What's involved? Some rear arms and brackets, frame side trackbar bracket relocation, full corners. Longer driveshaft some body cutting. Coil perch relocation,bumpstops
Depends what your starting from to be honest.
Check out the rock krawler 3" stretch and crawler concepts corners
My RK lift will be coming off in the future for a stretch, as I won't be going anything less than 10 inches between front and rear. 3 up front and 7-8 in the rear.
12-06-2016, 08:17 PM
#10
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Albany
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Read this guys 3inch stretch thread, some information that could be useful in there to explain why a 2-3 inch stretch in the rear is pretty much pointless. Heck, my dang RK lift pushed the axle back a good 1-2 inches as it is. If you're going to spend the money on a rear stretch, do it right the first time.
My RK lift will be coming off in the future for a stretch, as I won't be going anything less than 10 inches between front and rear. 3 up front and 7-8 in the rear.
My RK lift will be coming off in the future for a stretch, as I won't be going anything less than 10 inches between front and rear. 3 up front and 7-8 in the rear.