LoneWolf

Unless you're already slinging grease from the boot, you should be fine on the road. Just avoid any flexy situations until you're closer to being ready for driveshafts.

realjeep

I myself did a 2008 JKUX build with 4” Rockroller lift, with most of the Tie rod and drag link accessories. I also ran 33” With 1.5 Back spacers all the time.

This ended up costing me about 1500+ a year in replacement parts maintenance IE: ball joints, tie ends, power steering gear box etc. And I wore out those fancy $600+ rebuild-able ball joints twice and once with the Moog ends. Just driving around town normally.

My Jeep is a DD 99.5% of the time.

I decided to trade my 2008 X for a 2015 JKUR. I kept my front and rear bumpers with dueling wenches. Then I put armor on the differentials, Full Synergy armor plates from gas tank to oil pan. That lowered my stock hight about 1” in from and 1.25” in rear so I put 1.75” Synergy spacers on the stock coils. Then I bought a second set of Rims with 5” back spacing and put 35” Kevlars for off road use only and a set of cheep thin fender flares to clear the 35’s (to be upgraded later.)

Basically with the 35” and spacers on I got a real lift of around 4” (from stock) with one of the best under armor kits out there. I’m not sure why I get that much lift my speculation is that the 35” tires are holding their roundness better then the stock tires. And if stock parts ware out they are very cheep to replace compared to aftermarket kits. One of my mechanics told me that driving with large tires and back spacing all the time put tones of extra ware on the system. Even though 33” is only 1 inch size bigger than stock the back spacing really stressed out the axles.

So I DD with the stock Robi Tires. They seem to work better in the snow anyway and I live on the side of a mountain. Either set of tires I get a factory style ride all the time and when I deflate the 35”s down to say 15 LBS I get the same cushy ride I got with the 4” lift and 33” tires.

Of course this limits me to intermediate trails but I’m not looking to do a lot of body damage repairs.

My 2 Cents

PS I spent about $4000 with tires, armor and labor. Keep in mind I already had the bumpers and wenches from the old jeep witch is probably another $2000+. I need to get better rock sliders and fender flares ... have to save for now.

2014Wrangler

Here's a picture of my 2014 JKU with 2 1/2" lift with 35 x 12.50 x 20 tires and stock fenders. I think, like someone else said, if you go with the 3 1/2" lift you'll end up replacing your drive shafts.

m4belisle

my 2 cents.......2.5" is perfect with 35's and flat fenders, 3.5" is perfect for 35's and stock fenders or 37's and flat fenders.

also no 2 jeeps are the same.....for the record I tore the boot on my front drive shaft with a 2.5"........flat roads you'll be fine, off-road will be fine unless you disconnect (which you should).....disconnected is how my tore

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...2_JOcflLt33uTB

Shadydc

thanks, nfor a while i will not be doing much if any off road due to work and living in the area i do.

Mpack

jsukey

I did front and rear Tatton 1310 driveshafts after my front started popping on the trail. I'm not easy on it. Got the pair for $833 shipped, including the yokes from River City Offroad about a year and a half ago. I'm running the Rock Krawler 2.5 X-Factor with 35's. I didn't need a new rear, but figured I would go ahead and do it anyways. That being said...you can get a new front shaft for around $400. You can always sell your front shaft, assuming it's still good. Peace of mind for $350ish...definitely worth it in my opinion!