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2.5" lift: install at home or pay a shop?

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Old 03-18-2014, 06:48 PM
  #11  
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Yes you could use a coil compressor to take out the coils. While I agree that doing it yourself is best IF you have the proper tools to do the job and do it in a safe manor. If not then take it to a shop and have them do it or find some local people that have the proper tools and get an install party going one weekend. Coil and shock swap out should only take about an hour if you know what you are doing.

If you can change out ball joints you should be able to swap out coils and shocks. For what you will spend on a shop you can buy a set of jack stands, jack, and torque wrench. I would expect around $200 for a shop to do the work.

Confused two threads and have edited this one. Sorry if anyone was confused about height.

Last edited by TheDirtman; 03-18-2014 at 06:50 PM.
Old 03-18-2014, 10:32 PM
  #12  
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you did everything else so lift should be no problem for you. my son and I did mine in garage. about half a day is all it took. you need jack stands is all.
go with the TF coil lift. easy install with good results. been running it for going on 4 yrs no problems. combined it with some shocks off of a rubicon and
got a nice ride.
Old 03-18-2014, 10:49 PM
  #13  
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I would look at the Rock Krawler 2.5. The new progressive rate springs are nice and it is very quality stuff. [I]m very happy with mine so far.
Old 03-19-2014, 01:03 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by AXIS
On the video I watched they were dropping the axle until the spring was able to drop free on its own. This required you to disconnect a lot of parts that connect to the axle. Could you not use a spring compressor and save all of that hassle?
It might not save you as much hassle as you think. You still need to loosen all of those parts, and retighten to specified torque values after the vehicle weight is back on all four tires. This is critical whenever doing a lift. And, besides, having tried the spring compressor route when I just needed to get a spring out of the way for some other work: It's way easier to just loosen and/disconnect all of those parts than to try to fumble a spring compressor into place. And way safer.

BTW: Best reason for doing the work yourself is you're going to learn a lot about your Jeep. Info that may come in handy if/when you ever have a problem and are a long ways from a repair shop.

Also, make sure to trim the rear wheel pinch seam. I know there are folks who attest that they run 35s and have never had a problem. But I trimmed mine anyway, and still had problems after trimming it. So, I had to trim it some more. I run 35" Duratracs, which tend to run "smallish". The problem is that most folks aren't really putting their Jeep to a valid test of whether it will rub or not. Lifting the axle up and down and seeing that the tire clears the pinch seam doesn't prove that it will clear the pinch seam when loaded heavy and running on a rough road with the tires aired down. It will rub under the right circumstances. It's too easy to just clean up rather than take a chance on whether or not your push your vehicle as hard as I do mine.

Last edited by Mark Doiron; 03-19-2014 at 01:07 AM. Reason: Added trim pinch seam info.
Old 03-19-2014, 05:58 PM
  #15  
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Check out Rock Krawler kits from Northridge. Do it yourself.



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