2.5" Lift Debate
#22
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well crap now I'm confused. I've read a few articles and reviews talking about how the stock arms have better bushings and that after market seems to break down and not perform as well. But I've always trusted this board more than random site reviews so I gotta stick with it.
If wheeling is a priority, then the lower arms are the first thing to go along with the springs, shocks, track bars... The only lifts that don't replace the lower arms are basic lifts that are built for looks/wheel clearance and not for wheeling. A complete lift for a serious wheeler will include replacing all 8 arms.
#23
My issue with that is ground clearance. My control arm brackets take a beating as is, I can't imagine with a drop on them.
#24
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Scottsdale, AZ, United States
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There's already quite a bit of opinion thrown around in this thread. Based on the OP's initial statement, this JK is a daily driver and occasional trail rig. With that in mind, either of your listed kits will work fine with no need to make any additional purchases. Both kits you're interested in (TF and AEV) are complete as is.
When I was making this same decision earlier this year, I was also interested in the same two kits. I got what I feel was an honest assessment from a local retailer from whom I purchased. He said both are high quality, he carried both and sells both. His opinion was that the AEV wasn't worth the extra money; he bought the Teraflex 2.5 for his own personal rig.
I did the same, running 35 Duratracs on AEV wheels. I could not be more pleased.
You do NOT need to add aftermarket controls arms, adjustable track bars, etc to either of these lifts. You may wish to do this down the line, but they are not necessary. I mean no offense, but anyone who tells you differently is likely trying to sell you something or did not read what the intended use of your rig is.
When I was making this same decision earlier this year, I was also interested in the same two kits. I got what I feel was an honest assessment from a local retailer from whom I purchased. He said both are high quality, he carried both and sells both. His opinion was that the AEV wasn't worth the extra money; he bought the Teraflex 2.5 for his own personal rig.
I did the same, running 35 Duratracs on AEV wheels. I could not be more pleased.
You do NOT need to add aftermarket controls arms, adjustable track bars, etc to either of these lifts. You may wish to do this down the line, but they are not necessary. I mean no offense, but anyone who tells you differently is likely trying to sell you something or did not read what the intended use of your rig is.
#25
JK Enthusiast
i'm in the same boat as the OPer. I think after everything i've read i'm going to eventually go with AEV. my rig is 98% pavement with the only other time country road/ logging road type terrain. It seems like what i've read that AEV provides the best road/ highway performance. I want to be able to go up and over some rocks if they are there but i am in no way trying to build a rock crawler.
#26
JK Super Freak
Agree with this. If you want to do any wheeling at all, with a short lift (2.5") you want a least the lower control arms. The higher you go, or if you want the geometry to be 'right' you need to replace the uppers too. The factory arms are garbage once you decide to lift.
AEV lifts are not for wheeling. They are made for looks and better on road handling. If you actually want to wheel it, AEV is no longer an option. I prefer Rock Krawler. There are many other brands that also to high quality lifts that are built for wheeling. Teraflex, Currie, Metalcloak and many others.
AEV lifts are not for wheeling. They are made for looks and better on road handling. If you actually want to wheel it, AEV is no longer an option. I prefer Rock Krawler. There are many other brands that also to high quality lifts that are built for wheeling. Teraflex, Currie, Metalcloak and many others.
The OP is going to use 5100s so his shocks will be the same regardless.
I guess the AEV rear track bar setup might not please all rock crawlers. I haven't heard much about the AEV rear bar strength one way or the other. Probably depends on how hard the Jeep will get wheeled.
Neither TF or AEV includes a front track bar so no difference there.
AEV swaybar link extensions are bogus but anybody who wheels at all will toss them and use Discos.
For sure a great lift, even at 2.5", would have 8 control arms, cellular bump stops, 2 adjustable track bars, 4 new sway bar links, reservoir shocks, and killer springs. For people who aren't going to spend that kind of money the questions are: How will the Jeep be used? And: What is the best way to lift for that purpose without spending more than $1000 - $1500?
#27
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my opinion is to look at the 2.5 Rk max travel
you get arms for the castor correction. which is gonna make the world of a difference for your daily driving along with rear arms to make pinion angle correction for a vibration free ride. new trac bars and extended brake lines instead of brackets add the bilstien 5100 and it will be better than stock feel on the road and do very well on the trail/rocks
System Benefits:
-Complete Bolt in System
-High Clearance - Adjustable Lower Control Arms
-Progressive Rate Front Coils
-Bomb Proof Adjustable Front Track Bar
-Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects
-Bomb Proof Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
-Stainless Steel Brake Lines Front and Rear
-Excellent Highway Ride and Handling
-Allows for 33/35 Inch Tires (37 Inch Tires with Flat Fenders as Shown)
-Abuse Proof Lifetime Warranty on All Hard Parts
-Upgradeable to any other Rock Krawler System
System Includes:
(2) long travel progressive rate front coil springs, double adjustable front track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel, (2) high clearance adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, adjustable front sway bar disconnects, (2) long travel linear rear coil springs, precision welded rear track bar relocation bracket made from ¼” thick laser cut steel, (2) high clearance adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, front and rear long travel stainless steel brake lines, extended rear sway bar links, hardware and detailed instructions.
This is my opinion but i think it will give you everything you want and then a lil more
you get arms for the castor correction. which is gonna make the world of a difference for your daily driving along with rear arms to make pinion angle correction for a vibration free ride. new trac bars and extended brake lines instead of brackets add the bilstien 5100 and it will be better than stock feel on the road and do very well on the trail/rocks
System Benefits:
-Complete Bolt in System
-High Clearance - Adjustable Lower Control Arms
-Progressive Rate Front Coils
-Bomb Proof Adjustable Front Track Bar
-Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects
-Bomb Proof Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
-Stainless Steel Brake Lines Front and Rear
-Excellent Highway Ride and Handling
-Allows for 33/35 Inch Tires (37 Inch Tires with Flat Fenders as Shown)
-Abuse Proof Lifetime Warranty on All Hard Parts
-Upgradeable to any other Rock Krawler System
System Includes:
(2) long travel progressive rate front coil springs, double adjustable front track bar made from 1.5” solid alloy steel, (2) high clearance adjustable front lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, adjustable front sway bar disconnects, (2) long travel linear rear coil springs, precision welded rear track bar relocation bracket made from ¼” thick laser cut steel, (2) high clearance adjustable rear lower control arms made of 1.625” solid alloy steel, front and rear long travel stainless steel brake lines, extended rear sway bar links, hardware and detailed instructions.
This is my opinion but i think it will give you everything you want and then a lil more
#29
JK Super Freak
Yeh, that's strong suggestion. Four arms is a good compromise. At $1650 its a bit more spendy than the OP was after but its got the right stuff and ya get what ya pay for.
For a person who wants the TF or AEV brand under their rig, adding 4 arms to either of those basic kits would end up being about the same price however. I think its hard to go wrong with a decent set of carefully picked components from any brand.
Mostly I say: Bolt something decent in there and go run it!
For a person who wants the TF or AEV brand under their rig, adding 4 arms to either of those basic kits would end up being about the same price however. I think its hard to go wrong with a decent set of carefully picked components from any brand.
Mostly I say: Bolt something decent in there and go run it!