Jonathan_JK

I would avoid Geometry brackets you loose clearance when you use them. Just go ahead and get some Adjustable LCA's and be done with it.

wishithadahemi

i second that i spent 4-6 months deciding on wich 2.5 lift to get and was dead set on the aev duelsport 2.5 with the brackets but little did i know till i spent some time searching on here u loose on what u gain with your lift so makes no sense to me to spend over 1200 bones on that if your gonna get the aev and lower ca's makes more sense its only 200 more for a decent set of lca's than those brackets .
im going the rock krawler max travel i know its alo more almost 1k more but witht that i get get my cake and eat it too..

jkjouster

florida is all mud sand and water. maybe the occaisonal flat rock or log, nothing that will be a clearance issue. i have yet to have a problem with my stock jeep. the height is for tires and a stance. as well as liking the additional height. the brackets will be an inch lower, thus lowering my arms. but the resulting angle will help with bump steer and roughness over ties and potholes. pushing the force into the springs rather then back into the frame. i believe what aev says, and im sure their 3.5 inch lifts with brackets get nothing but praise.

JKred

For a street driven rig that sees use on light duty trails they are a nice way to correct geometry cheaply and maintain a nice ride.

Points to consider:
-As others have said, you lose some clearance at the frame rails. Could be a point to hang up on on the trail.

-You are using factory arms. Thinner walled tubing on the arms, and low deflection bushings that will bind at a lower degree under articulation. However road vibrations are still dampened by the rubber bushings, providing a smoother ride.

-An adjustable arm with a quality flex joint at one end and a bushing at the other will still dampen road vibrations while providing more degrees of unbound articulation. However with lower lifts and shorter travel shocks that degree of articulation may not be worth the price. Thicker walled tubing would be beneficial only if the rig is used harder, or if you are prone to sliding control arms along rocks and obsticals.

AirJordan613

Exactly what I'm looking for thanks.

jkjouster

points taken. and first point received. \

my daily driver and sees 6 days a week road. 1 day a week trails. no rock crawling...just sand mud water and fire road. not flexing much at all except the occaisional mud hole or pot hole

i think for my use, the 2.5 budget, bilstein shocks, and aev brackets, northridge grade 8 bolts all for $650 shipped will be a phenomenal ride, which will be driven hard on road and driven lightly off... 33s or smaller 34 in my near future

JKred

Glad I could help

Out of curiosity, what kit are you considering? I would avoid spacers and go with a quality coil. Most companies make a 2-2.5" coil that matched with the brackets, some decent shocks, and brake lines or line extensions will serve you very well as a DD/trail or pothole smasher

chzwhiz

So glad to hear a little common sense reigning on this thread! Not all Jeeps need to be rock crawlers!

For brake lines Teraflex makes a drop bracket for the 2.5" lift that is much cheaper and easier than new brake lines, or even extenders. It simply lowers the mounting point to create enough play in the line for a little added flex. With that said, once the lift is installed find a rock or ramp for some in town flexing to check brake line length. Better to find out u need longer lines in town than on trail after you lose a line.

jkjouster

i am going with the complete budget kit from teraflex 2.5 spacers. comes with everything from brake brakets to bump stops with sway bar links and all. completely complete. the reason i am sticking with spacers and not springs is do to the fact of not having added weight.

i do not have bumpers winch or 35s yet. with aftermarket springs i will gain to much and cause other unessecary issues. i like the softness and plushness of my stock springs and plus spacers, more road noise will further be isolated. stock springs spacers and 5100s should be absolutely perfect for my needs.

JKred

Why not just jack the jeep up by the frame and let the axle droop, checking for tension?

Also, on newer models (I believe 2011+) the brake lines route thru a bracket attached to the spring perch. Unbolt that bracket and you gain and extra few inches of brake line.

Everyone loves an extra few inches!