2.5 Fox Internal Bypass pros/cons
#1
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
2.5 Fox Internal Bypass pros/cons
Pretty much as the title says. Who has them and what are your thoughts?
I have the opportunity at getting the 2.5 inch Fox internal bypass shocks for a good price. I do more rock crawling but also hit the dunes just about everytime we are out there. My bilstein 5100s have been shot now for some time, any shock at this point in time would probably be an upgrade.
I have the opportunity at getting the 2.5 inch Fox internal bypass shocks for a good price. I do more rock crawling but also hit the dunes just about everytime we are out there. My bilstein 5100s have been shot now for some time, any shock at this point in time would probably be an upgrade.
#3
JK Freak
Pretty much as the title says. Who has them and what are your thoughts? I have the opportunity at getting the 2.5 inch Fox internal bypass shocks for a good price. I do more rock crawling but also hit the dunes just about everytime we are out there. My bilstein 5100s have been shot now for some time, any shock at this point in time would probably be an upgrade.
#4
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Nice and good to know you do more rock crawling. Im the same but I play hard in the dunes as well.
#5
JK Jedi
Not sure of your set up but those type of shocks are designed for those that are racing in a class that does not allow for hydraulic bump stops as that is really all they do is add an internal bump stop to the shock with no adjustability. You would be better off running a separate hydraulic bump stop that you can at least tune a bit for your ride. AS far as people saying they are stiff, valving is the key and can always be changed. The name "internal bypass" is a bit misleading and some people mistake they are getting a bypass shock which they are not. They do offer simplicity over your set up since it is an all in one with no adjustment.
Just because you can get them cheap does not mean they are a "deal" since you don't know if it is going to benefit your set up. You will likely not notice them while rock crawling bust should help with suspension bottoming out at speed if you have that issue.
Just because you can get them cheap does not mean they are a "deal" since you don't know if it is going to benefit your set up. You will likely not notice them while rock crawling bust should help with suspension bottoming out at speed if you have that issue.
#6
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Not sure of your set up but those type of shocks are designed for those that are racing in a class that does not allow for hydraulic bump stops as that is really all they do is add an internal bump stop to the shock with no adjustability. You would be better off running a separate hydraulic bump stop that you can at least tune a bit for your ride. AS far as people saying they are stiff, valving is the key and can always be changed. The name "internal bypass" is a bit misleading and some people mistake they are getting a bypass shock which they are not. They do offer simplicity over your set up since it is an all in one with no adjustment.
Just because you can get them cheap does not mean they are a "deal" since you don't know if it is going to benefit your set up. You will likely not notice them while rock crawling bust should help with suspension bottoming out at speed if you have that issue.
Just because you can get them cheap does not mean they are a "deal" since you don't know if it is going to benefit your set up. You will likely not notice them while rock crawling bust should help with suspension bottoming out at speed if you have that issue.
With that being said and from your post it seems as if I have two routes, but need to determine which one would be more beneficial for me. One of the things stopping me from going to hydraulic bump stops is the fact that my future plans of a double triangulated 4 link. I guess I just don't want to pay for the labor of having the work done twice, having them installed now, then cut off due to 4 link, and then installed again. The 2.5s would be a direct bolt in to my current setup with the addition of syngery's rear mount that gets my 2inches of up travel back that I lost when moving to the 2.5 compared to my current shock for the rear. The fronts I'm gonna lose .50 inch of up travel on each side.
Long story short. Guess I could just honestly get the same shock I have now and deal with the crappy ride in the dunes like I have been, but still get me where I need to go on and off the road and just suck it up till I do my 4 link setup.
#7
JK Jedi
You should not have to relocate bump stops just because you go to a double triangulated 4 link but really is not a big deal to change location with them if you need to.
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#8
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
From setups Ive seen, the fronts are going to be simple to relocate if needed. The rear is what I was more concerned about with most set ups now that cut into in the frame for the bump stop bracket. Then if I were to 4 link and push the axle back, I would no longer need that bracket and left with one that was cut into the frame.