2"-2.5" Lift Trouble Free?
01-11-2015, 08:11 AM
#11
JK Super Freak
Per Teraflex the exhaust spacers are not needed on a 14 with Teraflex shocks. I would assume it's the same for a 15 too
01-11-2015, 08:56 AM
#13
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm with nthinuf.
When I bought my 2013 it had 26k on the clock, it had spent it's life stock and on the pavement. Not one scratch underneath, and no signs of gravel "pitting".
Before I bought the rig the dealer installed the TF 2.5" BB and RE adj. front track bar and 35x12.50's. I had them put 5.13's in it and off I went.
I though it drove great, slightly flighty steering, otherwise good driver. 2dr, and shortest vehicle I've ever owned so I assumed so of the twitchyness was part of the deal.
Then I got placed on a project that causes me to commute over an hour each way on well worn highway.
All of a sudden the slightly flighty steering was a problem, fighting worn wheel tracks, high cross winds with flighty steering got old real fast. Made the drive exhausting. I was contemplating trading for a 4dr.
Spoke with a long standing and reputable local shop, and at their suggestion I had adjustable upper control arms installed to dial in alignment and and double cardan driveshafts to allow pinion be dialed in.
Immediately, the the flighty steering was gone, and the Jeep never had driven so smooth. Guess there were vibrations/harmonics in the stock driveshafts that I had accepted... probably told myself it was the mud tires, but, then again coming from a 17year old beat up XJ on muds this thing was smooth sailing by comparison.
So, I too thought that a 2.5" lift was just fine, and required nothing else... until I started adding other things and realized how much better the rig became with them.
When I bought my 2013 it had 26k on the clock, it had spent it's life stock and on the pavement. Not one scratch underneath, and no signs of gravel "pitting".
Before I bought the rig the dealer installed the TF 2.5" BB and RE adj. front track bar and 35x12.50's. I had them put 5.13's in it and off I went.
I though it drove great, slightly flighty steering, otherwise good driver. 2dr, and shortest vehicle I've ever owned so I assumed so of the twitchyness was part of the deal.
Then I got placed on a project that causes me to commute over an hour each way on well worn highway.
All of a sudden the slightly flighty steering was a problem, fighting worn wheel tracks, high cross winds with flighty steering got old real fast. Made the drive exhausting. I was contemplating trading for a 4dr.
Spoke with a long standing and reputable local shop, and at their suggestion I had adjustable upper control arms installed to dial in alignment and and double cardan driveshafts to allow pinion be dialed in.
Immediately, the the flighty steering was gone, and the Jeep never had driven so smooth. Guess there were vibrations/harmonics in the stock driveshafts that I had accepted... probably told myself it was the mud tires, but, then again coming from a 17year old beat up XJ on muds this thing was smooth sailing by comparison.
So, I too thought that a 2.5" lift was just fine, and required nothing else... until I started adding other things and realized how much better the rig became with them.
What do you plan to use this Jeep for? With the skids on the bottom that suggests maybe some hardcore rock crawling--you want to protect things from getting damaged. So, that being the case, what do you expect that 2-2.5" lift with the stock Rubi tires to give you that you don't have already? If you're looking at this as "temporary until I can afford a better lift", then how about setting the money aside so that you can afford that better lift sooner? Right now, your tires are giving you as much ground clearance as you can get. The lift will not help with that. It will give slightly better approach and departure angles, but not really much to write home about. And you'll be able to keep some of your components, such as electrical things, above water during slightly deeper river fords. And that's about it. Your penalty for that will be a higher center of gravity (COG), and greater wind resistance (thus lower gas mileage and seemingly less pep from the engine).
The big bang comes when you increase the tires size. You still suffer those penalties (though if you replace the OEM wheels with some at a more optimum offset you'll be wider, but not as tipsy with the higher COG). You do, however, gain critical ground clearance, along with those other things noted above. And, with selection of a proper lift, you'll gain articulation, which means your Jeep is better at keeping tires in contact with the ground, which makes rock crawling safer (imagine rocking back on forth on one front and one rear wheel because your tires can't keep contact with the ground). That's why the best approach is to lift only to provide clearance for your tires of choice. And the smart approach is to not spend money for the same mod twice.
The big bang comes when you increase the tires size. You still suffer those penalties (though if you replace the OEM wheels with some at a more optimum offset you'll be wider, but not as tipsy with the higher COG). You do, however, gain critical ground clearance, along with those other things noted above. And, with selection of a proper lift, you'll gain articulation, which means your Jeep is better at keeping tires in contact with the ground, which makes rock crawling safer (imagine rocking back on forth on one front and one rear wheel because your tires can't keep contact with the ground). That's why the best approach is to lift only to provide clearance for your tires of choice. And the smart approach is to not spend money for the same mod twice.
02-01-2015, 07:08 AM
#14
JK Freak
Did the AEV lift eliminate your factory rake? Seems like a lot of post-AEV photos I see still have the nose-down look. I'm trying to decide if I'll need to add spring spacers with my lift.
Last edited by LoneWolf; 02-01-2015 at 07:38 AM.
02-01-2015, 09:55 AM
#16
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh,PA
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone who installs a lift, all you gotta do is crawl under the jeep and look at the clearance between the exhaust and the driveshaft.
Its too close for comfort with a 2.5" lift. I don't care if Teraflex says you don't need it. There's too little space between the axle and the exhaust with a lift. Id rather spend $50 or $60 and know there's enough room, than not get the spacers and tear my axle boot on the exhaust then get premature axle failure and have to spend hundreds on a new axle.
Best advice, get under your jeep at look at the gap. Use your judgement. Bad design on Jeeps part
Its too close for comfort with a 2.5" lift. I don't care if Teraflex says you don't need it. There's too little space between the axle and the exhaust with a lift. Id rather spend $50 or $60 and know there's enough room, than not get the spacers and tear my axle boot on the exhaust then get premature axle failure and have to spend hundreds on a new axle.
Best advice, get under your jeep at look at the gap. Use your judgement. Bad design on Jeeps part
02-01-2015, 10:22 AM
#17
JK Jedi
Lift height has nothing to do with needed a spacer, it is running longer shocks or extensions that allow for more droop over stock that creates the problem with contact.
02-01-2015, 10:52 AM
#18
JK Jedi
I will say that in a parked position if you look at stock 12-15 wrangler there does not appear to be a lot of room between the front drive shaft and the exhaust but I know on my 14 jkur with 1 1/2" RK that lifts an actual 2.25" at full droop there still is clearance between the DS and the exhaust and that is with longer shocks. Now looking parked a person would think it would rub when fully drooped but looking at it fully drooped says otherwise.
02-01-2015, 02:20 PM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh,PA
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The higher the lift, the more separation betweenthe axle and the transmission. Therefore more of an angle the driveshaft has to be at. Making it closer to the exhaust.
I think droop or downtravel has as much to do with it as the actual lift itself while sitting on the ground. Make sense?
I think droop or downtravel has as much to do with it as the actual lift itself while sitting on the ground. Make sense?