10A JKU Rear Lift tearing itself up
#11
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Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges (LINK)
If I adjusted the trailing arms a little shorter and added "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges", would that fix the issue? the Rockkrawler.com website says the wedges fix "rear coil spring and rear track bar contact" which is an issue I'm having as well, even though I forgot to list it in the original post.
I should be rubbing on the front of the fender, like everyone else.. But I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender...
If I adjusted the trailing arms a little shorter and added "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges", would that fix the issue? the Rockkrawler.com website says the wedges fix "rear coil spring and rear track bar contact" which is an issue I'm having as well, even though I forgot to list it in the original post.
I should be rubbing on the front of the fender, like everyone else.. But I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender...
#13
JK Junkie
Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges (LINK)
If I adjusted the trailing arms a little shorter and added "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges", would that fix the issue? the Rockkrawler.com website says the wedges fix "rear coil spring and rear track bar contact" which is an issue I'm having as well, even though I forgot to list it in the original post.
I should be rubbing on the front of the fender, like everyone else.. But I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender...
If I adjusted the trailing arms a little shorter and added "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges", would that fix the issue? the Rockkrawler.com website says the wedges fix "rear coil spring and rear track bar contact" which is an issue I'm having as well, even though I forgot to list it in the original post.
I should be rubbing on the front of the fender, like everyone else.. But I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender...
#14
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Ignore what the manual says. Every Jeep is different.
You are going to have some amount of coil bow no matter what and that is fine, it doesn't hurt anything or change ride quality.
In terms of the angle of the axle, it depends on if you have a stock or aftermarket drive shaft. If stock, you want the pinion to be the same angle as the t-case (not pointing at the t-case). It should be around 7 degrees or so.
I'd start there and then see how it looks. After that, move the axle forward. Arms should be around 20.5" lower and 18.5" upper, or a little less. Are you sure you are correctly measuring them? eye-eye (center of bolt to center of bolt)?
You are going to have some amount of coil bow no matter what and that is fine, it doesn't hurt anything or change ride quality.
In terms of the angle of the axle, it depends on if you have a stock or aftermarket drive shaft. If stock, you want the pinion to be the same angle as the t-case (not pointing at the t-case). It should be around 7 degrees or so.
I'd start there and then see how it looks. After that, move the axle forward. Arms should be around 20.5" lower and 18.5" upper, or a little less. Are you sure you are correctly measuring them? eye-eye (center of bolt to center of bolt)?
Best I can measure without having the arms off is 18 3/4 top and 20 1/2 lower.. measuring eye to eye best I can. I didn't pay much attention to the angle of the pinion but will check into it this afternoon and update.
#15
JK Junkie
I mentioned rear control arms due to the fact that the axle is pushed back too far. Everyone has pointed out some good things with the pictures supplied.
Last edited by Jonathan_JK; 10-31-2016 at 10:53 AM.
#16
JK Junkie
Bump Squares
Also RC 4" kit are supposed to have Bump squares attached to the axle perches. Looks like they did not install them they add 2" to the axle.
http://www.roughcountry.com/bump-stop-extensions-1119.html
This might help with blowing the RC junk shocks.
http://www.roughcountry.com/bump-stop-extensions-1119.html
This might help with blowing the RC junk shocks.
Last edited by Jonathan_JK; 10-31-2016 at 11:00 AM.
#17
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Also RC 4" kit are supposed to have Bump squares attached to the axle perches. Looks like they did not install them they add 2" to the axle.
Rear Bump Stop Extensions for 07-16 Jeep JK Wrangler [1119] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®
This might help with blowing the RC junk shocks.
Rear Bump Stop Extensions for 07-16 Jeep JK Wrangler [1119] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®
This might help with blowing the RC junk shocks.
#18
I would have to look at mine, but I'm 99% sure your sway bar link is mounted wrong - the axle side should be outboard of that tab, hence the bending and shock contact.
My springs are bowed much worse than yours, and have been for years, not a big deal. I would guess a lot of your issues have to do with that sway bar link....but I would agree with others toss that in the trash and start over, a spacer lift would likely be better than what you have.
My springs are bowed much worse than yours, and have been for years, not a big deal. I would guess a lot of your issues have to do with that sway bar link....but I would agree with others toss that in the trash and start over, a spacer lift would likely be better than what you have.
#19
JK Junkie
Incorrect bump stops will cause shocks to blow. Compressing a shock to full stroke will usually blow the seals. Plus fast compression and extension will cause the substrate in the shock to airate and become less effective. At that point the seals will fail even if the shock is not at full compression.
#20
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Rough country is great for trucks that mall crawl that's about it. I have their quick discos and spring wedges that's it. Your rear sway at links are toast. Spring bowing is outrageous. I don't even know if spring wedges will help. You need some adjustable control arms and rough county shocks are crap they blow out so easy. I say 86 the RC lift and start over. Also with 4" of lift your going to need some expandable drive shafts like Tom woods or Adams.