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10A JKU Rear Lift tearing itself up

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Old 10-31-2016, 10:10 AM
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Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges (LINK)

If I adjusted the trailing arms a little shorter and added "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges", would that fix the issue? the Rockkrawler.com website says the wedges fix "rear coil spring and rear track bar contact" which is an issue I'm having as well, even though I forgot to list it in the original post.

I should be rubbing on the front of the fender, like everyone else.. But I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender...
Old 10-31-2016, 10:10 AM
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If I were to guess, your uppers are too long and rotating the axle way too much. Check the angle and of the pinion as I noted above.
Old 10-31-2016, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by waterboy222
Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges (LINK)

If I adjusted the trailing arms a little shorter and added "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges", would that fix the issue? the Rockkrawler.com website says the wedges fix "rear coil spring and rear track bar contact" which is an issue I'm having as well, even though I forgot to list it in the original post.

I should be rubbing on the front of the fender, like everyone else.. But I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender...
You don't need wedges. It is visual. You will end up with more lift and more problems.
Old 10-31-2016, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Ignore what the manual says. Every Jeep is different.

You are going to have some amount of coil bow no matter what and that is fine, it doesn't hurt anything or change ride quality.

In terms of the angle of the axle, it depends on if you have a stock or aftermarket drive shaft. If stock, you want the pinion to be the same angle as the t-case (not pointing at the t-case). It should be around 7 degrees or so.

I'd start there and then see how it looks. After that, move the axle forward. Arms should be around 20.5" lower and 18.5" upper, or a little less. Are you sure you are correctly measuring them? eye-eye (center of bolt to center of bolt)?

Best I can measure without having the arms off is 18 3/4 top and 20 1/2 lower.. measuring eye to eye best I can. I didn't pay much attention to the angle of the pinion but will check into it this afternoon and update.
Old 10-31-2016, 10:49 AM
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I mentioned rear control arms due to the fact that the axle is pushed back too far. Everyone has pointed out some good things with the pictures supplied.

Last edited by Jonathan_JK; 10-31-2016 at 10:53 AM.
Old 10-31-2016, 10:57 AM
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Default Bump Squares

Also RC 4" kit are supposed to have Bump squares attached to the axle perches. Looks like they did not install them they add 2" to the axle.

http://www.roughcountry.com/bump-stop-extensions-1119.html

This might help with blowing the RC junk shocks.

Last edited by Jonathan_JK; 10-31-2016 at 11:00 AM.
Old 10-31-2016, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
Also RC 4" kit are supposed to have Bump squares attached to the axle perches. Looks like they did not install them they add 2" to the axle.

Rear Bump Stop Extensions for 07-16 Jeep JK Wrangler [1119] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®

This might help with blowing the RC junk shocks.
I definitely don't have those on there... But I also don't see them on the parts list. The perch on the passenger side axle is crushed in the back from the bumpstop hitting the back edge of it. I guess that's a definite indicator the axle is too far back.
Old 10-31-2016, 03:40 PM
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I would have to look at mine, but I'm 99% sure your sway bar link is mounted wrong - the axle side should be outboard of that tab, hence the bending and shock contact.

My springs are bowed much worse than yours, and have been for years, not a big deal. I would guess a lot of your issues have to do with that sway bar link....but I would agree with others toss that in the trash and start over, a spacer lift would likely be better than what you have.
Old 10-31-2016, 03:53 PM
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Incorrect bump stops will cause shocks to blow. Compressing a shock to full stroke will usually blow the seals. Plus fast compression and extension will cause the substrate in the shock to airate and become less effective. At that point the seals will fail even if the shock is not at full compression.
Old 11-01-2016, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
Rough country is great for trucks that mall crawl that's about it. I have their quick discos and spring wedges that's it. Your rear sway at links are toast. Spring bowing is outrageous. I don't even know if spring wedges will help. You need some adjustable control arms and rough county shocks are crap they blow out so easy. I say 86 the RC lift and start over. Also with 4" of lift your going to need some expandable drive shafts like Tom woods or Adams.
To the OP - you may not like this answer, but it's the right answer. Someone who knows what they're doing could probably make improvements and address most of the issues, however you'll likely be fixing things again later. A quality lift and quality installer is the long term fix and the ride will be better, too.


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