$8k budget
06-26-2015, 03:44 AM
#2
JK Junkie
I ran the MC Game Changer with 6paks. My advice would be to save the money and skip the 6paks. We also run one with the standard shocks and it works really well.
I'll let others comment on the rest.
I'll let others comment on the rest.
06-26-2015, 04:18 AM
#3
JK Super Freak
Why didn't you like the 6packs? Is it because of the expense or do they not ride nice or ???
06-26-2015, 04:55 AM
#4
If I were going from stock to 37s this is what I would possibly do:
Save just a little longer or borrow another grand LOL and:
Find a good used Dynatrac PR44- about 3000
EVO 3" Enforcer-1300
Front adj trackbar-250
Front driveshaft-650
Build the rear axle-2000 (35 spline with locker)
37" tires- 2200
use stock wheels for now with spacers-150
If you're saying you'll want 37s, do it now. Been there done that, I've quickly went from 35s to 37s and now 40s. Whatever you do, if you know you're going 37s don't waste money on the front stock axle. You can sell the D30 (or D44 if you have a Rubi) and recoup some money.
Save just a little longer or borrow another grand LOL and:
Find a good used Dynatrac PR44- about 3000
EVO 3" Enforcer-1300
Front adj trackbar-250
Front driveshaft-650
Build the rear axle-2000 (35 spline with locker)
37" tires- 2200
use stock wheels for now with spacers-150
If you're saying you'll want 37s, do it now. Been there done that, I've quickly went from 35s to 37s and now 40s. Whatever you do, if you know you're going 37s don't waste money on the front stock axle. You can sell the D30 (or D44 if you have a Rubi) and recoup some money.
06-26-2015, 05:12 AM
#5
Super Moderator
Welcome to JK-Forum!
This is a great list and I would only add two things
1. Regear to 5.13 since you are going to go with 37's and the altitude you are currently sitting.
2. I would add a drag link flip to correct bump steer you will have with 37's
Optional is to add an Artec Truss to the front axle. This is dependent on the terrain you will be wheeling. For me in Texas the terrain is not that radical and a truss will work for me. In fact the truss will be installed this weekend.
Depending on if you have a 2dr or 4 dr will determine if you need just a front drive shaft or both.
R/
Will
If I were going from stock to 37s this is what I would possibly do:
Save just a little longer or borrow another grand LOL and:
Find a good used Dynatrac PR44- about 3000 (Edit: if you have a Rubicon D44 you can use all the internal components along with the tie rod, drag link and knuckles. Basically you will need just the house and that will save you a lot of money.)
EVO 3" Enforcer-1300
Front adj trackbar-250
Front driveshaft-650
Build the rear axle-2000 (35 spline with locker)
37" tires- 2200
use stock wheels for now with spacers-150
If you're saying you'll want 37s, do it now. Been there done that, I've quickly went from 35s to 37s and now 40s. Whatever you do, if you know you're going 37s don't waste money on the front stock axle. You can sell the D30 (or D44 if you have a Rubi) and recoup some money.
Save just a little longer or borrow another grand LOL and:
Find a good used Dynatrac PR44- about 3000 (Edit: if you have a Rubicon D44 you can use all the internal components along with the tie rod, drag link and knuckles. Basically you will need just the house and that will save you a lot of money.)
EVO 3" Enforcer-1300
Front adj trackbar-250
Front driveshaft-650
Build the rear axle-2000 (35 spline with locker)
37" tires- 2200
use stock wheels for now with spacers-150
If you're saying you'll want 37s, do it now. Been there done that, I've quickly went from 35s to 37s and now 40s. Whatever you do, if you know you're going 37s don't waste money on the front stock axle. You can sell the D30 (or D44 if you have a Rubi) and recoup some money.
1. Regear to 5.13 since you are going to go with 37's and the altitude you are currently sitting.
2. I would add a drag link flip to correct bump steer you will have with 37's
Optional is to add an Artec Truss to the front axle. This is dependent on the terrain you will be wheeling. For me in Texas the terrain is not that radical and a truss will work for me. In fact the truss will be installed this weekend.
Depending on if you have a 2dr or 4 dr will determine if you need just a front drive shaft or both.
R/
Will
Last edited by Canvas; 06-26-2015 at 05:16 AM.
06-26-2015, 05:57 AM
#6
JK Enthusiast
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What trails do you wheel in the springs? I'm real close to old stage rd I'm on a 4 1/2" lift and 35s I can do all the trails no problem but I would definitely save up more and do 37s from the beginning and look into coil overs.
T&ERUNs list is just about everything you'll need
T&ERUNs list is just about everything you'll need
Last edited by Nicknowles22; 06-26-2015 at 06:00 AM.
06-26-2015, 06:09 AM
#7
JK Junkie
- For a two door, the rear was pretty stiff.
- You are really going to need a nitrogen kit. I found that I needed recharging every couple months. If you don't keep an eye on the charge, it can cause damage to the shock.
- The travel benefit is only there if you really understand suspension and are willing to make the needed adjustments. You have to run their fenders. I had to adjust the shock mounts they sent so that I could maximize the travel. A lot of tinkering.
- If you wheel in the rocks, probably not going to work out well. Look at a picture of the rears mounted. It creates quite the target. I broke off nitrogen valves almost every time I wheeled (another reason you need your own kit). I broke two shocks from hitting rocks. In the one season I ran them, I had a total of 6 replaced and 2 rebuilt.
I'm not saying they don't work. It is a great design and if setup right, work as expected. Just don't under estimate the maintenance and be willing to make all the necessary modification to get the travel out of them.
Final note, MetalCloak has the most bad a## customer service. When I broke a shock wheeling in the middle of nowhere, they over-nighted a new one to my hotel. When I had issues, they replaced them. Bent a control arm, new one came the same week. There's a reason I chose to use their joints on my new build.
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06-26-2015, 08:45 AM
#8
I live near you as well.
What trails are you aiming to ultimately wheel? What model do you have?
8K is a pretty healthy budget. I would go with something like a Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift. That way you dont need to get driveshafts and it will give you enough lift to clear 37s and do most trails without issue. It can also be installed in a garage although a bit cumbersome. You dont need coilovers and they will put a big bite into your budget anyway. Bilstein 5100s are a good choice but do your research to see which ones best match your desired riding comfort i.e. some shocks ride softer and some ride harder.
35s vs 37s are a matter of preference. I run 37s on Rubi 44s that are c gusseted and sleeved. I am careful and havent had any issues but I consider this the top of my comfort zone i.e. I wouldnt want to run 40s with my current setup.
What trails are you aiming to ultimately wheel? What model do you have?
8K is a pretty healthy budget. I would go with something like a Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift. That way you dont need to get driveshafts and it will give you enough lift to clear 37s and do most trails without issue. It can also be installed in a garage although a bit cumbersome. You dont need coilovers and they will put a big bite into your budget anyway. Bilstein 5100s are a good choice but do your research to see which ones best match your desired riding comfort i.e. some shocks ride softer and some ride harder.
35s vs 37s are a matter of preference. I run 37s on Rubi 44s that are c gusseted and sleeved. I am careful and havent had any issues but I consider this the top of my comfort zone i.e. I wouldnt want to run 40s with my current setup.
06-26-2015, 08:50 AM
#9
Forum Tech Advisor
I am looking to modify my jeep, I live near Colorado Springs, CO. I love trail riding with a convoy of jeeps I go out with. I've done trails rated @ 5-7 with my stock jeep so far, looking to be able to conquer and dig further down the trails in an easier manner. Basically I'll have around $7.5-8k saved up pretty soon, so that will be my budget for building this jeep for mods...it's basically bone stock except for a pro-comp dual steering stabilizer setup that I recently had added. I'll need a lift, tires, rims and preferably a back bumper w/ new tire carrier. I'm looking to go 35s right now, with the possibility of upgrading to 37s in the future once I get the budget for a beefier axle setup & when the 35s wear out. Any suggestions from the veteran people out there? I also considered going all out and getting the $4k MC setup with the 6Pak shocks, grabbing cheap rims and good tires and then just save up for whatever else after that. Is it worth it? Any idea on labor costs for a setup like this to be installed? I live in an Apartment and they don't allow us to work on vehicles here, nor do I have the tools.
06-26-2015, 11:34 AM
#10
JK Newbie
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If you wheel in the rocks, probably not going to work out well. Look at a picture of the rears mounted. It creates quite the target. I broke off nitrogen valves almost every time I wheeled (another reason you need your own kit). I broke two shocks from hitting rocks. In the one season I ran them, I had a total of 6 replaced and 2 rebuilt.
I'm not saying they don't work. It is a great design and if setup right, work as expected. Just don't under estimate the maintenance and be willing to make all the necessary modification to get the travel out of them.
I'm not saying they don't work. It is a great design and if setup right, work as expected. Just don't under estimate the maintenance and be willing to make all the necessary modification to get the travel out of them.
To answer others questions it is a 2007 jeep wrangler unlimited x, non-rubi. 6spd manual.
The trails I've completed so far are Hackett Gulch, Bordenville Gulch, Illinois Gulch and Twin Cones.....hackett gulch being the hardest IMO due to my tires are going to need to be replaced soon and I was a noob and never aired down. (makes a huge difference) but I managed ok.