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Transmission Cooler

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Old 02-20-2011, 10:57 AM
  #341  
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Appreciate the write up. I added a cooler a Dodge pickup about 10 years ago, but the pictures and the details made it easier to make the cut of no return (the tranny return line).

Made sure everything was in place and perfect before I did the deed.

Now me and my jeep are even cooler than before
Old 02-24-2011, 05:22 PM
  #342  
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I will install my on Sat. morning. pics will follow
Old 02-28-2011, 12:59 PM
  #343  
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Default Does anyone know........

Great write-up. I'm planning to install the B&M 70268 cooler, and would like to know if anyone knows, if the bypass feature requires a specific inlet?
On the box it shows the top/left nipple as the bypass inlet, and since everyone is using the bottom/right as the inlet from the existing cooler, will the bypass feature still function?
As I live in a climate where -40 is not uncommon, that with a 60mph driving speed equals a potential frozen coolant line if the bypass is not in operation.
If the bypass works in either direction, then no problem, but I sure would like to know for sure.
Old 03-10-2011, 09:28 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by Wrangled
Great write-up. I'm planning to install the B&M 70268 cooler, and would like to know if anyone knows, if the bypass feature requires a specific inlet?
Just did it tonight with the 70268. I carefully read the included instruction sheet and nothing inlet / outlet port specific was ever mentioned. The cooler itself is not stamped inlet or outlet. Since I did a vertical install I brought the fluid in the bottom nozzle and retuned to the tranny out the top. I would suggest buying Gates hose and clamps but thats just me. The included hose was too short so I was glad I had gone ahead and bought 8 ft. of Gates before starting. If you want to spray paint the brackets I found Rust-Oleum’s Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2x -- Gloss Black a good match to the cooler. Instead of the included nuts and bolts I used 1/4"-20 x 1/2" SS bolts w/ Nyloc stop nuts. I did use two of included self tapping hex head screws w/ blue loctite to secture the brackets to the bottom frame member. No pictures it looks like the vertical installs previously posted.

Great install thread everyone, thanks for all who contributed to the thread and to the OP for starting it.

Last edited by kingteddybear; 03-10-2011 at 09:41 PM.
Old 03-10-2011, 10:23 PM
  #345  
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That is the correct way it should feed in from the bottom and exit from the top.
Old 03-14-2011, 04:53 PM
  #346  
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I did this install with the jeggs aluminum cooler... I ran my line from the top of the aux cooler to the top of the stock cooler... from the bottom of my aux cooler to the trans line... is this right?... Click image for larger version

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Old 03-16-2011, 06:50 PM
  #347  
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Great Thread! I know several people who have gotten the light/buzzer show while wheeling. Sounds like a great mod to do before Moab.
Old 03-18-2011, 08:51 PM
  #348  
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I installed my B&M 70268 last week.
Thanks Paratus13, great write up,
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:54 AM
  #349  
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i want to revisit the attaching the cooler rubber lines directly on the oem metal lines...is this a good option? seems a lot cleaner BUT once you cut the metal line behind the factory crimps it will just be a strait line with no lip....Will just sliding the hose on it and clamping it keep it nice and tight on there without slipping off? Also how do you cut that metal line without crushing it? I'm assuming using a side cutters will crush the line...
Old 03-20-2011, 08:58 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by funtimes
i want to revisit the attaching the cooler rubber lines directly on the oem metal lines...is this a good option? seems a lot cleaner BUT once you cut the metal line behind the factory crimps it will just be a strait line with no lip....Will just sliding the hose on it and clamping it keep it nice and tight on there without slipping off? Also how do you cut that metal line without crushing it? I'm assuming using a side cutters will crush the line...
Use a line cutter and then you HAVE to use a flaring tool an make a single flare. Use Aeroquip conectors an it will never leak again.

Last edited by EarlyJk; 03-20-2011 at 09:06 AM.


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