Subwoofer Relocation
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Subwoofer Relocation
I made the mistake of ordering the MOPAR Add-A-Trunk for my Rubi (which has the factory Subwoofer) before I found out the two are totally incompatible. Once I installed the Add-A-Trunk (by removing the subwoofer), I knew it had to stay and the subwoofer had to find a new home.
After eyeballing several possible locations, I selected the passenger wheelwell between the rollbar and the rear seat as the best location.
To remove the subwoofer, simply undo the three nuts, then disconnect the connector and off it comes. I couldn't find a way to remove the original mounting studs, so I used a Dremel cutting wheel to shave them off at the base.
Next, I pulled up the carpeting which is very easy to do. Then you have to remove the outside passenger plastic wheelwell liner simply by grabbing and yanking it out. Do NOT do this when it's cold or the plastic tabs may break.
Once you gain access to both sides of the metal wheelwell, decide where you want to mount the subwoofer. I recommend as close to the tub as possible and as far rearward as possible. To prep the subwoofer, remove the bracket attached to the underside of the subwoofer and use a Dremel cutting wheel to CAREFULLY and SLOWLY grind off the top mounting tab of the subwoofer. A fine grit sandpaper will smooth it out once you get it pretty smooth with the grinder.
To mark the locations to drill into the wheelwell, I used some wheelbearing grease on the three mounting tabs where the mounting bracket was installed, then carefully lower it in place until you have three grease spots. This is where you drill.
I used the same mounting screws to temporarily mount the subwoofer. I then got a 10" black shelving bracket from ACE Hardware, and bent/cut it to fit, then mounted it to the wheelwell to support the front of the subwoofer.
Once everything was lined up and the subwoofer was securely mounted, I removed it again and installed the carpeting. Using a utility knife, I cut a slit for the forward mounting bracket and pulled the carpeting into place. I then applied silicone to the drilled holes, and permanently mounted the subwoofer.
Lastly, I cut all four wires to the subwoofer and soldered in an extra 8" of 16g wire, then covered the connections with shrink wrap.
Once done, I reinstalled the Add-A-Trunk, and marvelled at a beautiful alternative to settling for one or the other. Yes Charlie Brown, you CAN have your cake and eat it too!!
Please see the following photos. http://my.project-jk.com/showgallery...500&ppuser=113
Tom
Bryson City, NC
After eyeballing several possible locations, I selected the passenger wheelwell between the rollbar and the rear seat as the best location.
To remove the subwoofer, simply undo the three nuts, then disconnect the connector and off it comes. I couldn't find a way to remove the original mounting studs, so I used a Dremel cutting wheel to shave them off at the base.
Next, I pulled up the carpeting which is very easy to do. Then you have to remove the outside passenger plastic wheelwell liner simply by grabbing and yanking it out. Do NOT do this when it's cold or the plastic tabs may break.
Once you gain access to both sides of the metal wheelwell, decide where you want to mount the subwoofer. I recommend as close to the tub as possible and as far rearward as possible. To prep the subwoofer, remove the bracket attached to the underside of the subwoofer and use a Dremel cutting wheel to CAREFULLY and SLOWLY grind off the top mounting tab of the subwoofer. A fine grit sandpaper will smooth it out once you get it pretty smooth with the grinder.
To mark the locations to drill into the wheelwell, I used some wheelbearing grease on the three mounting tabs where the mounting bracket was installed, then carefully lower it in place until you have three grease spots. This is where you drill.
I used the same mounting screws to temporarily mount the subwoofer. I then got a 10" black shelving bracket from ACE Hardware, and bent/cut it to fit, then mounted it to the wheelwell to support the front of the subwoofer.
Once everything was lined up and the subwoofer was securely mounted, I removed it again and installed the carpeting. Using a utility knife, I cut a slit for the forward mounting bracket and pulled the carpeting into place. I then applied silicone to the drilled holes, and permanently mounted the subwoofer.
Lastly, I cut all four wires to the subwoofer and soldered in an extra 8" of 16g wire, then covered the connections with shrink wrap.
Once done, I reinstalled the Add-A-Trunk, and marvelled at a beautiful alternative to settling for one or the other. Yes Charlie Brown, you CAN have your cake and eat it too!!
Please see the following photos. http://my.project-jk.com/showgallery...500&ppuser=113
Tom
Bryson City, NC
Last edited by SpudRacer; 03-29-2007 at 07:33 PM.
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Hey I did the same thing last weekend
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/relocated-sub-box-5249/
But I used one main mount bracket instead of existing mounts
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/relocated-sub-box-5249/
But I used one main mount bracket instead of existing mounts
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#8
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Did you have to buy new plastic screws/retainers for the inner fender? I just pulled mine off. Doesnt look like I can reuse them..
I'm installing the powerplant air tank on the inner fender...
I'm installing the powerplant air tank on the inner fender...
#9
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I have to drill the holes to permanently mount the Add-A-Trunk tomorrow, then I plan to reinstall the plastic retainers. If I cannot get them to work, I'll replace them. They look a little chewed up but still reusable.
As an update, I found that the subwoofer still tilted inward slightly and would rub the Add-A-Trunk lip when it was fully opened. I removed the subwoofer again, and used a rubber mallet to "adjust the metal fenderwell to tilt the subwoofer outward. Now it is lined up perfectly and plenty of clearance. By the way, hitting a rubber glove lying on the fender instead of the fender itself did a perfect job of protecting the paint.
Tom
Bryson City, NC
As an update, I found that the subwoofer still tilted inward slightly and would rub the Add-A-Trunk lip when it was fully opened. I removed the subwoofer again, and used a rubber mallet to "adjust the metal fenderwell to tilt the subwoofer outward. Now it is lined up perfectly and plenty of clearance. By the way, hitting a rubber glove lying on the fender instead of the fender itself did a perfect job of protecting the paint.
Tom
Bryson City, NC
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looks great, but a little exposed to the elements
i suppose most would have your top up when it's raining and such, but for those with top down and out on the trail?
how's it doin there?
i suppose most would have your top up when it's raining and such, but for those with top down and out on the trail?
how's it doin there?